bushpig 0 Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 You should never need to convince yourself of purchases mate! Link to post Share on other sites
Kumapix 0 Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 just found some 26year old nikon lenses at my school and they were slated for being thrown away so I got them!! My loot: 35mm f2 50mm f1.4 135mm f2.8 woo hoo Link to post Share on other sites
YellowSnow 0 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Question for this thread. Ignoring the temp adjustment for snowphotography. What is the best tip for maintaining a strong blue sky.( even if slightly hazy) Stopping up or down? What is a good aperture.( for still photography. The normal optimal point is the middle aperture of the lens.) Do you like a longer or shorter shot? Any good filters? Incidently I am selling a 100-300 and 24-75 sigma lenses for a canon eos(20d 30d kiss etc) body. Link to post Share on other sites
Kumapix 0 Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 meter the sky and the sky will be properly exposed. try a circular polarizer and you'll get stunning blue skies. it also acts as a nd filter so it will help with bluebird exposures. longer lens is good for snowsports. wide lens is good for jumps and landscapes. aperture depends on your shutterspeed. add an exposure compensation of +1.5 or +2. this all depends on your shot & the conditions though a good guide to start with is iso100 shutter speed of 1000 and f5.6 for a bluebird day (read it on another site) Link to post Share on other sites
Kumapix 0 Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 just learnt some more: for dark blue skies do -2 to 3 stops but use fill flash on your subject Link to post Share on other sites
NoFakie 45 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Quote: Originally posted by YellowSnow: Question for this thread. Ignoring the temp adjustment for snowphotography. What is the best tip for maintaining a strong blue sky.( even if slightly hazy) Like Kuma says a circular PL filter is the easiest way. Use the camera's internal meter on the sky and use the exposure lock button. Fill flash if you want a foreground that is too dark, or shoot from the other side if thats an option. If you're seriously into gear, carry a big bag and shoot static scenery, you can get gradation filters that clip onto your lens and darken the sky. They are normally square and you slide them up and down so that the darkened half of the filter starts at the horizon. With digital photos, you can mimic the effect in Photoshop etc. Alternatively, you can shoot different exposures off a tripod and combine them using software. This is called high dynamic range photography. Some people do it to get really freaky fantasy photos, but used sparingly, it can look pretty good. Some cameras seem to be designed to produce highly saturated colours. The only way to replicate that in another camera is to use Photoshop and crank up the levels. Link to post Share on other sites
ianbc 0 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Originally posted by YellowSnow: Question for this thread. Ignoring the temp adjustment for snowphotography. What is the best tip for maintaining a strong blue sky.( even if slightly hazy) If you an get an f stop up in the f11 zone or higher youll get some spanky blue skies. What is a good aperture.( for still photography. The normal optimal point is the middle aperture of the lens.) f5.6-f8 are the sweet spots depending on what you after for depth of field...but whatever you choose will depend on your shutter and availble light which should be atleast 1/1000s Any good filters? UV all you really need Link to post Share on other sites
YellowSnow 0 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Thanks all good tips! This year I have gone all digital. If not I would just slip some velia in my mamiya. I will look into a circular polarizer. Yeah 100iso is good. But cant beat lower iso films. Ianbc you go as fast as 1/1000s? For sport or scenery? I guess I was always on the slow side prefering long exposures. I might try a night transition 60min exposure the next mountain I am up. Link to post Share on other sites
ianbc 0 Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 all my comments were in reference to sports. Link to post Share on other sites
Kumapix 0 Posted January 25, 2007 Author Share Posted January 25, 2007 EBC - to check prices on cameras go here http://kakaku.com/sku/pricemenu/dezi1.htm (choose the maker and you'll see all the cheapest prices in Japan) last week you were considering the d50 double zoom lens kit (18-55 & 55-200) for 65000 for reviews on different cameras check http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/ also check out the pentax k10d. it looks pretty good. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/pentaxk10d/ Link to post Share on other sites
eskimobasecamp 0 Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 thanks kuma woah i'm really confused now, the D50 seems like a good deal... but maybe interested in canon too Link to post Share on other sites
daver 0 Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 does anyone have any advice for processing from RAW to JPEG? i have recently purchased Aperture and i am liking it, but i am also noticing a significant difference in the image once i export it to a JPEG format. any tips on how to compensate/prevent this? Link to post Share on other sites
soubriquet 0 Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 The difference is in the amount of compression of the image. You should be able to specify zero compression when you change the format. Link to post Share on other sites
daver 0 Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 that makes sense. thanks man Link to post Share on other sites
ianbc 0 Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Quote: Originally posted by daver: does anyone have any advice for processing from RAW to JPEG? i have recently purchased Aperture and i am liking it, but i am also noticing a significant difference in the image once i export it to a JPEG format. any tips on how to compensate/prevent this? if your losing colour...shots look desaturated then you want to... first shoot adobeRGB (in camera) then when you do your PS/Aperture work convert it to sRGB and save for web.(in PS ... edit .. convert to profile..sRGB) Link to post Share on other sites
Kumapix 0 Posted February 5, 2007 Author Share Posted February 5, 2007 do u change to srgb before the edit or at the end? Link to post Share on other sites
YellowSnow 0 Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 If you are photographing in RAW, it doesn't matter what colourspace you are using. AdobeRGB can represent about 25% more colour. If you need applications that support it. e.g. a printer that accepts AdobeRGB. If it is just for web, microsoft documents, powerpoint it will only display as sRGB anyway. I always save as AdobeRGB because I might want to print it. Link to post Share on other sites
daver 0 Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 i'll look into that and give it a try. thanks for the help! Link to post Share on other sites
Wizz 11 Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi folks the thread is back from the dead! I know a few of you have the Nikon D200. Just reading back on reviews though and notice that it was is nearly a year and a half since it was released. Any news on a possible successor to it or will it be the kind for a while yet? Link to post Share on other sites
Kumapix 0 Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 earliest could be an october announcement for a d200s but that's a completely groundless guess. In other news, I'm getting one for my buddy and was quoted a price of 138000 which is pretty cheap Link to post Share on other sites
thursday 1 Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 138,000 at 120 per USD = 1150 Thats US$216 cheaper than I got mine for. DAMN! Link to post Share on other sites
Wizz 11 Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Anywhere you can tell us about? Link to post Share on other sites
thursday 1 Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I'm not sure if they're made anywhere else, but my D200 was made in Thailand. Link to post Share on other sites
Kumapix 0 Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 Originally Posted By: Wizz Anywhere you can tell us about? At my local kitamura. I buy so much from there plus I'm the negotiating pointman for all my friends so as soon as I walk in they know to give me the best deals. I bet I could knock a little off that 138000 too. If you can't get that price where you are I can hook you up...but you would have to add shipping (which should be under 2000yen) I paid 154000 for mine last october Link to post Share on other sites
thursday 1 Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Got to ask you this Kuma, how much would the 17-35 F2.8 cost? Link to post Share on other sites
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