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Don't you love it when it all comes into place?

 

Yesterday I get up and come to work.. Some how I come home with a new board! Life is good, now need some waves!

 

"Only a surfer knows the feeling!"

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Spook, got an Emery. Good deal for a newwie that I couldn't refuse.

I desperately needed a board for the 3ft+ days as my last custom for the larger days came out way too wide and goes like shiat in anything over waist height.

Decky is on & I am hoping for some fun in the morning!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey surfers..

What's been happening?

 

I went for a surf last sunday, mate gave me a 9'1 as it was about 1ft. Found this FAT board in his garage in a board bag and said "what's this?" ended up being a McCoy Nugget, and have been wanting to try one out for ages...

 

Was ard board, great summer small wave board..

 

Anyone else tried em?

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Deffo buying a mal next summer.

 

The wife and kids are all out when it's 1-2 foot. What else do you ride?? I experimented with fishes last summer but just couldn't get into it. I didn't see the point of having a special board for when the surf was shite.

 

9'1" Indo? You should be able to nail a headstand with that. lol There's a challenge for ya. Post a photo of you doing headstand before xmas.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been getting some nice beachies at Padma. Bought a new Lost "Rocket" which is Awesome. At 5'9" I was worried it would be a tad short as Im 80kg pre Bintang but its easy to paddle and obviously duck dive. Bit like my 6' CI Pod which now seems like a gun LOL.

 

Hanging to ride the new 6'3" CI Fort Knox sitting in the room. Off to Ulu's tomorrow for 5 days so hoping to get some 4-6ft waves which is more then enough for me. Sadly one week left here. The dream is a house here for the Aus winters and a house in Hakuba for the Aus summers smile

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Haha I always pull out before the close out wink

 

Houses are rented which covers the mortgages, just off to get a few new experiences but Bali is hardly that. Although had my very 1st facial the other day and ended up in a VERY gay strip club with a tranny doing lip sync to Kylie on the bar. That will be the last facial I get smile

 

Thanks Black Mountain, low tide banks are in short supply.

 

 

 

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It's about half way to Canggu from Kuta. Just south of a place called Tuggu. You should be able to get a drive out there from someone for like 50,000 Rp or less. There are three spots at Brawa. North Point, beach and south point... South point is a great super fast wave... another great thing (for me anyway) is that all the points at Brawa work going right so if you are a natural footer you'll enjoy that much more!

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Well surfed Ulus late this afternoon. 4ft plus on the sets, bit peaky but the odd cracker. I had a great plan too. Wait until 5pm when surely everyone would be getting out the water ready for a beer leaving plenty of waves for the rest of us. Sadly 50 other people had the same idea. So over it, esp the Brazilians altho the two by the pool today were to die for smile

 

Pulling the pin on the Ulu's idea and headn back to the heart of evil and surf beachies where at least its possible to get waves....

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I know what you mean about the peninsula. I spent a few days there last month and had a hard time getting into it. Way too many dudes take themselves too seriously down there!

 

That Ku-de-ta beachie I told you about is a great place to surf unfortunately it only works at low tide when the swell is over 2.5 m. Other good bets are that Brawa place I mentioned as well as Tugu. Tugu is directly next to Canggu. Tugu will often look really busy but there aren't so many good surfers that hang out there so you will definitely catch some waves. Between Tugu and Echo Beach (Canggu) there is a great reef break called Old Men. Try it out if its working for some really fun long left hand waves. Loads of good surfers hang out at Echo Beach but its still possible to catch waves there too if you are good enough wink

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Originally Posted By: panhead_pete
W Sadly 50 other people had the same idea. So over it,


I don't think I'll ever surf the peninsula again. I have too many fond memeories of 'the good ol days' when there were only a handful of surfers in the water.
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Yep totally ruined now, so many people feeling the same way. Feeling nostalgic for '84 and my 1st visit. Just been out at Padma, 30mins by myself, then a couple guys. Bali is pumping, people everyhwere. Really happy for the locals but its a real rat race. Having said that there is a stunning Euro on the next table wink

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Paradise Lost - Fear and Loathing in Kuta.

 

Last night violence erupted between some local Balo's and Javanese, with streets closed including Poppies One. Not the 1st time but its hard to maintain the love affair with this place now.

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It's just one bad story after the next coming out of Kuta. Best idea is to steer clear of that shit hole and stay in Legion or Seminyak. I stayed at a friends place in Kerobokan for a month and everything was bliss... some other friends stayed in Kuta and it was 'mugging this' and 'punch up that' night after night.

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Just found out it wasnt a gang thing last night, just one guy went crazy with a machete and attacked 12 Balo shop keepers. No word on the injuries though. Still bad.

 

Im outa Kuta tomorrow and back to Legian. Better banks there too.

 

Mantas the other side is great in the summer but at this time of year its generally onshore as it stays pretty much offshore on the west coast for months.

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sounds hectic. speaking off which, we just rolled into jakarta after a month or so in sulawesi. the traffic here always blows me away.

heading down the coast next for (hopefully) a few days of waves with a mate. gonna check out the turtles area. i've got no idea of what to expect - just gonna be a passenger and leave it in his capable hands

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