Thundercat 60 Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 damn you! Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 Was it handling it OK? Mereweather was about as big as it gets on the sets. Some were calling it 10 foot. Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Yeah was handling it ok but the sweep was incredibly strong and the direction too south to get really good up here. I was going to go out but watched it for 1hr and only 2 waves ridden. The solid 6ft closeout straight of the jump off rock made it a very hard task! Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Day off today and a typhoon heading towards us! Fingers crossed that we'll be getting some swell over the coming days... Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 BM, I saw that you guys were expecting a pretty big spike in the swell. I hope you can find somewhere protected! (Where in Shiz are you?) Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Hey Indo, I'm right at Izu peninsula, eastern Shizuoka. Surfed near Shizuoka city in a place called Omaezaki today and it was pretty disappointing. It looks like the real party will be Saturday when the typhoon is slightly in the north. The forecast now is for 4m and off shore... if that happens then this long wait will be worth it... still debating about work tomorrow as it may be going off then too! Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 I used to surf Omaezaki all the time. Can be a good place but I am guessing to big for 4m! There are a few good spots in Shizunami but how about some of those rivermouth's around the area... Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Yeah, there are quite a few of those... and 4m is definitely too big for Omaezaki. The swell is mostly coming from the east so Shizunami will catch a lot of it. I actually surf quite a lot in Izu so I'll probably be sticking with that. Maybe you know Usami near Ito? That place can hold a massive swell and is usually protected from the wind (it also takes a big swell to get it working properly) Still undecided about work tomorrow... might drive down early early and see what is happening. That way I can make it back in time if it's no good or stay and call in sick from the beach BTW, I love Omaezaki when it's working properly. I was down there last month scoring overhead beauties just two days after getting back from Bali... it was like I didn't miss a beat. Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 Hope you score BM. Love to see some photos up if you do. I just bought a 7'6". The biggest board I've ever owned. I took it out the other day in 3-4 foot surf.... Man is it hard to duck dive. The thing just wont stay down. Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Cheers Mantas! I sometimes ride a 7'6" as well and have the same problem. Just out of interest sake why did you decide to buy a bigger board? I rounded out my quiver this year with the purchase of a 5'11" fish. Now I've got almost all my bases covered with a 9'6", 9'0", 7'6", 6'5" and 5'11"... Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 Getting serious with the nine footers mate. Where do you ride them? My previous gun was 7'2". There have been a few times when I just couldn't get onto the waves. No excuses now. My current quiver. 6'6", 6'8", 7'2", 7'6" Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Sheesh! That's a big gun mantas! My biggest is 7'2 which was out last week but it was built for Indo so it is pretty sharp. At the mo' My quiv is 6'0 fish, 6'3, 6'5, 6'6, 6'10 & 7'2. Never ride the 6'3 & trying to get rid of the 6'5 as it has been made redundant! 6'10 is a hybrid/fun board and really want to replace it with a similar shape to my Emery 6'6. I am guessing BM has those monsters for those regular 2ft days that Japan has so many of! Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Yeah Indo you are exactly right! If I didn't have longboards I wouldn't be surfing all that much here. TBH, I kind of enjoy taking out the 9'6" when it gets really big... it's a Balsa wood board that was given to me as a gift! It's also designed to handle big wave Hawaii so does really well on bigger days. Ended up going to work today because the winds were still too strong. All signs point to some sweetness tomorrow and Sunday. I'll be sure to snap a few picks if I get out long enough! Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Talking about quivers. My mate headed over to WA a few months ago with TEN boards. My wife doesn't understand why I need 4. Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Originally Posted By: Mantas My wife doesn't understand why I need 4. ahhh.. my wife does... but makes it difficult to sneak away on surf trips without her... Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 My wife was like that too... until she had to get 4 staples in her head from a little accident last summer. Luckily she still understands my obsession with boards! Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Well the morning wasn't as good as it could have been because of a high high tide. By lunch time it started to really pick up. By 2 pm we had double overhead close outs at the beach break and head/overhead high waves at the reef. Three sessions in the water with three different boards! Very good afternoon and looks like more of the same for tomorrow! Sorry I didn't take any photos but my friend did so I'll see if I can get them off him. Link to post Share on other sites
Tubby Beaver 209 Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 I cycled down the coast to Oiso yesterday and was hoping you got out BM!! The waves were huge!! Big barrels with hardly anyone riding them, a surfer mate of mine said that it was the best waves he's ever seen round here. Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 Photos photos photos !!! Link to post Share on other sites
Tubby Beaver 209 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 soz mate I didn't have my camera out yesterday. Today the waves were a bit more mellow and loads of people were out riding them. Some pretty big looking ones but nothing on yesterday. Speaking to a couple of my mates who surf and they all agreed that yesterday's waves were as epic as they've ever seen it here. Hardly anyone riding them (as it seems the locals are too scared when the decent swells roll in) and the surfers who were out were mostly Gaij. Link to post Share on other sites
Chriselle 158 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Originally Posted By: Black Mountain Well the morning wasn't as good as it could have been because of a high high tide. By lunch time it started to really pick up. By 2 pm we had double overhead close outs at the beach break and head/overhead high waves at the reef. Three sessions in the water with three different boards! Very good afternoon and looks like more of the same for tomorrow! Sorry I didn't take any photos but my friend did so I'll see if I can get them off him. BM, Did you come out here to Usami? I couldn't get in the water at all as I had some important business meetings. Sunday fell right off and there was a local comp going on at Bpoint so I ended up not getting any wave time. Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Yeah, I was at Usami on Saturday. I didn't end up surfing at all on Sunday because of double booking myself (again!) but it doesn't seem like I missed anything. Being there all day Saturday was a real eye opener at how fast conditions can change. I've never been at a break that increased in size by 6 feet or so in just a couple of hours! Link to post Share on other sites
Chriselle 158 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 And it can fall off just as fast... Link to post Share on other sites
Tubby Beaver 209 Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I've managed to get a few pics of the waves from a that Typhoon that rolled by a few weeks ago. These photos are from a friend of mines. Kugenuma and Enoshima doesn't usually get waves like this. (photos by Satoko Fujisawa) Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Seeing those.. I wish we had some damn surfable waves around here. Link to post Share on other sites
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