damian 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Your imaginary girlfriend hates you. Link to post Share on other sites
bushpig 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 And yours hates you as well as that imaginary mut that you claim has Saint Bernard abilities Link to post Share on other sites
TJ OZ 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 You hardly ever see a boogie boarder out at Winki Pop, where I usually surf. I think they get a bit intimidated by the local crew. Link to post Share on other sites
damian 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 He's like a bullet on snow (only when its firm, I have to carry him if it gets too soft). That's my hand. Rule of thirds..... like, its only blocking a third of the shot Link to post Share on other sites
snosurf 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 I think I can explain something here - The reason some bodyboarders have trouble understanding and acknowledging the 'snake' concept is because they are able to just turn and catch a wave with as much as a flippety flip. Meanwhile, Surfers have to sit and wait in position, spot a wave coming and paddle hard over a certain distance in order to ensure a smooth and successful take-off (well, at MOST breaks, anyway). This contrast in take-off/wave-catching styles creates confusion.... But on the other hand, some surfers and bodyboarders fully understand what 'snaking' is but don't give a stuff... they're just wankers. What board they're riding on is irrelevant. Bushpig and Spud I am assuming you 2 are mates?? Link to post Share on other sites
damian 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 I have never met him. He's a bible basher. Quote: The reason some bodyboarders have trouble understanding and acknowledging the 'snake' concept is because they are able to just turn and catch a wave with as much as a flippety flip. A wave is special and rare, I consider it a blessing be in the position to even catch one. When boogers do what you described above it is, in my life, the same as being at the airport arrivals lounge waiting for my dearly loved pretty wife whom I have not seen in months. Just as she appears from behind the sliding frosted glass customs door I break into a huge smile, my heart lifts, I step in her direction for the embrace.... and then some gutslider runs up and shoves his hand up her skirt. And he had to elbow 6 of his mate to the ground to get in first. Its like, get off her you bastard. Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Quote: Originally posted by Bushpig: Comments like "no self-respecting surfer would ride a lid" is a great example of that. Comments like "no self-respecting surfer would ride a lid" is a great example of that. Wow, finally I've been quoted. I was taking the piss and having a go when I said that! Quote: Originally posted by db le spud: But if a surfer snakes you can point it out to him and he will usually know what you are on about. But if a surfer snakes you can point it out to him and he will usually know what you are on about. If you pull up some bodyboarders for snaking they usually don't know what the hell you mean. Its like they have never even heard of line-up ethics. Spud, That is complete and utter BS! In fact I am almost pissing myself just remembering the times when pointing out to the "nice" surfer that had just dropped in on me that he did a bad thing and what kind of response do you reckon I got? 99 times out of 100 a polite "[censored] orf carnt!" If you pull up any beginner, surfer or lid, they probably won't know what you mean, thats why I avoid beginner spots. It's the advanced scum that do it just because they think theie shit don't stink or they have a god given right, OR honestly didn't see the person on the inside. I've been guilty off dropping in many times but 90% of the times I dropped in I was doing it as payback.The other 10% was the "sorry mate I didn't see ya" In Japan I have developed the J strategy and just go, everyone else does. I grew up surfing, did ride a lid (because of location) for a good part of my grom years but always rode a stick too. Lids only belong in one kind of wave... Slabbing thick pits of death. Link to post Share on other sites
damian 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 >>Spud, That is complete and utter BS! It probably is, I'm basing what I said on a pretty isolated set of experiences along time ago in a place where most people were pretty chilled and no one droped in. Plus I was being a bit of a spinner, like you were with the 'self respecting' bit. I reckon I would cry if I said to a surfer 'hey dude, why drop in?" and he returned with "Eff of C!". I have almost never purposely dropped-in in my life, perhaps a little pay back. If it happens by accident, not often, I feel pretty bad about it. Link to post Share on other sites
bushpig 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Mate, did I get that right??! The only bit I actually remembered was the "self-respecting" bit. And that wasn't meant to be a dig at you anyway. But it is a genuine attitude I have heard from many surfers. I agree totally with you last posting about snakers. A wave is special and rare, I consider it a blessing be in the position to even catch one. When boogers do what you described above it is, in my life, the same as being at the airport arrivals lounge waiting for my dearly loved pretty wife whom I have not seen in months. Just as she appears from behind the sliding frosted glass customs door I break into a huge smile, my heart lifts, I step in her direction for the embrace.... and then some gutslider runs up and shoves his hand up her skirt. And he had to elbow 6 of his mate to the ground to get in first. Nice spud! As always entertaining. So you wouldn't have minded that gutslider feeling up your wife, just as long as he waited his turn and didn't jump the queue? Link to post Share on other sites
snosurf 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Quote: A wave is special and rare, I consider it a blessing be in the position to even catch one. When boogers do what you described above it is, in my life, the same as being at the airport arrivals lounge waiting for my dearly loved pretty wife whom I have not seen in months. Just as she appears from behind the sliding frosted glass customs door I break into a huge smile, my heart lifts, I step in her direction for the embrace.... and then some gutslider runs up and shoves his hand up her skirt. And he had to elbow 6 of his mate to the ground to get in first. That's when you pull out the 'oh, sorry mate! Didn't see ya there....I thought there was no-one on it!' routine. Link to post Share on other sites
damian 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 No way I would share my wife, even if booger did wait in turn. I would expect the gutslider to go away and pull backdoor pig style into some heavy lumpy reform beach break. Just to be clear, I don't have a wife. I used the word for dramatic effect. Link to post Share on other sites
TJ OZ 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 I remember seeing some pics of Tommy Carrol getting dropped in on by a lid. The photos showed him doing loops around the guy. I like dropping in on my nephew. He use to crack the shitz but he got over the whole My Wave thing and we tear it up together now. I remember surfing Malibu and they seemed to share the waves a lot more there. I was originally holding back but the crew there were calling me onto the waves with them. Link to post Share on other sites
woywoy 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 TC getting dropped in on??? That's a change! Usually he is the one doing the dropping in. A lot of pros out there think they can get away with dropping in on all the ordinary joes out there but TC is infamous for it. Dropping in on friends, who you know can ACTUALLY surf, can be fun. I agree with you there TJ! I remember seeing some footage of one of the Quiksilver contests at G-land years ago and there were two guys (obviously pros) riding the one wave for what must have been over 500m and they traded tube for tube. One would come out and cut back, and the other would stall for the tube and over and over they would do the same thing again. It was EPIC. If I am ever able to do something like that I will be very happy. Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 My biggest claim to fame was calling kelly off a wave. "yep, Kelly" When I was doing surf charters for a mate we had the billabong challenge rock up and share the line up at Yo-yo's in Sumbawa. I really expected the Seppo's to be wanks but Kelly, Shane, Kalani & Rob were 4 of the most chilled out, mellow guys that I have ever met. They didn't care about surfing 3-4ft yo-yo's, they were more interested in going fishing! The aussies with them were pricks. Occy and Margo. He dropped in on me and I grabbed his leash and he wiped out, total tosser. Occ and him together acted like the 2 biggest wanks (too much crack) I have ever met, and at times like those I guess one could be ashamsed to say theay they come from the same place.. Big louie who was fresh from a G-land win and was a bloody easy going legend. Link to post Share on other sites
spook 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Some of you boys may be interested in this article: http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/journals/DeakinLRev/2004/29.html#Heading728 it looks at the way surfers manage to share a resource (waves) without any state intervention or codified rules, and how basic accepted behavioural norms define the way we interact. It also looks at localism and violence. It’s an interesting read. Most of the stuff has been touched on elsewhere in the surf media, but this looks at it from an analytical point of view. its pretty long (about 40 pages) so print it out and read it on the way home Link to post Share on other sites
spook 0 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Oh yeah, and as for pros being w#nkers, I’ve often thought that magazines should call em out for it. There’s this hero worship of pros which ignores the fact that a lot of them behave like complete dicks. Every now and then a mag will allude to the fact that someone is a hassle freak or whatever, but obviously they can’t launch attacks on the behaviour of surf stars. I’d imagine the advertisers wouldn’t be too happy. Oh well, there’s ar$eholes in all walks of life. Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 Quote: Originally posted by spook: Oh yeah, and as for pros being w#nkers, I’ve often thought that magazines should call em out for it. There’s this hero worship of pros which ignores the fact that a lot of them behave like complete dicks. Mate I couldn't tell you the last time I bought a surf mag. They are more like fashion mags these days. Some of the pros are more like cat walk models. Not all (but most) Pros are wankers. There are a few good examples. One of my mates was a pro in the 80s 90s. he was in the top 16 for a while. He is the nicest bloke you would want to meet. He now owns a couple of surf shops in town and is well respected by everyone around here. Another is MR. One of the greatest surfers of all time. I don't know him personally, but have dealt with him in his shop many times and in the surf. He is a lovely bloke. Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Is that Dave Mc Mantas? Pro's aren't all a bunch of wankers. I know a hell of a lot of good guys on tour and they're just doing what they love and getting (some well) paid for it. You say that the pros are more like catwalk models Mantas, but the industry has changed and they get paid by these companies to be models in their ads. Most of the guys that are in those ads got one thing in common. They're all shit hot surfers, and people get jealous of that and put them down. Link to post Share on other sites
ianbc 0 Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 I had a pretty good time road trippin in japan this summer...heres my favorites pics i took. http://www.pieandchips.com/j Link to post Share on other sites
damian 0 Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 That is actually one of the nicer pictures I have seen of Japan. And its got a river mouth peak in it. Link to post Share on other sites
spook 0 Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 sick pic db. you get out there or what? Ahh, I didn’t mean to come across as bagging ALL pros, my point was just that some blokes can behave like real knobs in the surf. I just think that rather than the surf media saying “oooh, look how hard XXX rips” maybe they should sometimes say “XXX rips but he’s also an arsehole in the water and that’s not a cool way to act”. Unlike other activites surfing is based on people treating each other in a certain way – ie don’t snake or drop in. Because the majority of people obey these loose rules, the system works for everyone. Without it there’d be anarchy in the water. To me surfing isn’t just about what someone does on a wave, it also encompasses their behaviour in the water. Every now and then a caption in a mag will allude to the fact that a certain pro is a drop in freak, even when on a photo trip with only a few other blokes (eg that brazilian grom Adriano de Souza). I know the mags can’t bag him because then sponsors/advertisers will get their knickers in a twist, so its sort of a dead end argument I having with myself really. It just irritates me a bit. But, when I do get the chance to surf with some cool rippers, I freaking love it. I’ve been lucky enough to see Taj out in the water a lot, and he seems like a nice enough bloke, and its crazy watching the best in the world up close. That’s another thing that makes surfing ace. I mean, its not like you can have a hit of tennis next to Pete Sampras, or play a round of golf with Tiger Woods. But anyone can float around in the surf and watch some ripper going nuts. Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 Quote: Originally posted by Indosnm: Is that Dave Mc Mantas? Pro's aren't all a bunch of wankers. I know a hell of a lot of good guys on tour and they're just doing what they love and getting (some well) paid for it. You say that the pros are more like catwalk models Mantas, but the industry has changed and they get paid by these companies to be models in their ads. Most of the guys that are in those ads got one thing in common. They're all shit hot surfers, and people get jealous of that and put them down. No Simon Law mate. Yes I'm one of the jealous ones. Who isn't. The surf industry is more intent on getting exposure on 'their guy" I mean who wants to see some young hottie surfing 2 foot slop? As long as the logos are in the shot and he is suitably talked up in the pages then that's all that matters. Most pros these days can't get around the curcuit without facing Chopes death pits and I respect that. But I don't care what type of boardies they are wearing when they do it. Link to post Share on other sites
indosnm 0 Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Spook, valid points and I agree with you especially on surfing with the top boys. I haven't played golf with Tiger yet! Mantas, I remember him. Is he shaping or just running a few shops? The QS curcuit is a joke as in where the hold these contests. I love seeing the new guns get one the CT and head to Chopes where they shit themselves big time. I remember seeing one year, Occ's boards hadn't arrived and it was 12ft and he wasn't in a rush to get em either! I'd have brownies a chopes too! Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 He owns 3 shops now. they are called Tsunami Surf. Named after the Tsunami that trashed G'land and washed him into the jungle in the middle of the night in his mozzie net. He can still surf like a demon. He's my age. It makes me spew! He's just started to give snowboarding a go. I'm going to try and get him to go to Japan. Link to post Share on other sites
Mantas 3 Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 Quote: Originally posted by Indosnm: I remember seeing one year, Occ's boards hadn't arrived and it was 12ft and he wasn't in a rush to get em either! I'd have brownies a chopes too! Chopes. great to watch. F@#ked if I'd surf it. Although it does look good at under 6 foot Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts