Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No speaking in waves, But yeah, there are a few. I mean sports. Every sport has it's gnarlyness but I think that's pretty up there putting yourself on the line in that beast. Maybe similar to riding an avalanche?

Link to post
Share on other sites

the crazy thing is that in 10 years people will be surfing an even heavier wave that will chopes look weak in comparison.

Cyclops in WA looks pretty nuts. Shipsterns in Tassie also looks very very intense.

Actually, from the vids I’ve seen, shipsterns looks pretty manageable up to about 6 foot. At that size it’s a hell long barrel, just a full drainpipe. I’d have a crack at it!

Chopes also looks relatively tame and super appealing at 4-6 foot, just like any other solid reef pass, but nothing mutant.

Link to post
Share on other sites

thats cuz 4-6 feet isnt that big...Ive surfed double that easily on the north shore. The reef is killer though and if the sets were bigger...man youd get creamed. Remeber Laird Hamilton dropping in and drags his front hand behind him to keep him from getting swallowed up eek.gif cool.gif Damn hes the man.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah 6 foot/double head’s not massive, but for me its solid enough!

There’s a billabong vid called passion pop and it’s got footage of shipsterns at 6 foot. 8 second pits, and so round and so fast.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not the high, but the thickness of the wave that gets you. I'll do up to 10 foot on the South shore of Oahu (where the waves tend to be thinner), but i'll only charge waves up to 6 feet on the north shore and only then in certain spots. Places like Bonzai pipeline and Sunset tend to have thick pain laden waves. Waimea also gets gnarley with the shallow reef caves.

Link to post
Share on other sites

6ft hawiian is solid surf in my book. It seperates the men from the boys who stay on the beach.

Funny thing with surfing is that sometimes it's not the MONSTER wave that creams you or cheese grates you over the reef, its the smaller ones.

Reefs are way safer when it's bigger than smaller as the waves tend to break in deeper water, where as smaller waves break on top of the reef..

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve been surfing tiny waves for the past few months, and I’ve come pretty close to hurting myself quite badly in knee high waves. When you fall off in a foot of water it’s pretty easy to bust a collarbone, wrist or ankle.

 

Last week the swell came up to a whopping head high. My old man copped a wave on the head, and as he duckdived he had his new red board (a 7’0” Spider Murphy single fin) board slammed into his face. He reckons he was in heaps of pain, sitting out the back and looking at all this red in the water, and thinking that the resin pigment was running! Then he touched his face and realised it was blood. Now his jewish nose is big AND crooked

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bushpig... I followed that youtube link and happened to notice a clip of Japan typhoon riding:

 

 

Looks like hella fun bra! Definitely takes a F***-yeah-goforit attitude and a beefy stick to ride that juice! I'd do it in a second! Getting hureled would be a drag but hey, ya only live once! I've never been out in surf THAT big with that kind of speed to them. I can only imaging what the board would feel like under your feet at those speeds with that amount of chop.

 

On the one you posted it says that it's an entry for "ride of the year" or something? That was an ok wave but the ride wasn't so hot. No tube space or anything. Just a straight ride.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tesselator, it was an entry when that was posted on youtube, but it was the final winner. Remember, that comp is about the biggest wave ridden, not the best ride or deepest barrel. I can't access youtube right now but I think that Japan one might be one that Indo posted in another thread last year.

Link to post
Share on other sites
 Quote:
Originally posted by Indosnm:

Reefs are way safer when it's bigger than smaller as the waves tend to break in deeper water, where as smaller waves break on top of the reef..
Absolutely Indo. We did a boat trip in New Caledonia a few years back. All the boys surfed this break at 2-3 foot and they all got chewed on the reef. I went spear fishing instead \:D
Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...