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I grew up in Hawaii, so you couldn't help but surf. I prefer bodyboarding, and I have actually rode waves as big as that picture you posted (6 - 10 foot faces). I haven't surfed in Japan - water's too cold and i'm spoiled from my time in Hawaii.

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Originally posted by SirJibAlot:
I grew up in Hawaii, so you couldn't help but surf. I prefer bodyboarding, and I have actually rode waves as big as that picture you posted (6 - 10 foot faces). I haven't surfed in Japan - water's too cold and i'm spoiled from my time in Hawaii.
my brotha! SirJib and I, after riding up to Hakuba from Kansai for the SJ party together, found out we went to the same JHS/HS in Hawaii! Crazy eh? cool.gif

Peeps who grow up around good surf tend to be snobs - quite understandable \:D
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First time I saw the clip I thought the waves looked a little too good and thought it was cut.

 

BP. the more you go down the more chances of getting the good stuff you have. I've had awesome waves here, just harder to call and where you are not as easy a mission as it is for me!

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Indo, I had to reread that to get your intended meaning ;\)

 

I hear ya though, but the hour and a half drive to get to a place that is only ever barely good unless a freak typhoon swell hits, is too depressing and expensive. Again, I have had decent waves here, but few and far between. I still keep going in hope, but am more often disappointed than rewarded.

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BP, I hit Surfers Paradise when I was in Aus on vacation, but I was pretty unimpressed. The tide was so strong that by the time I got out I was completely exhusted and the waves were just closing out. I caught 1 wave in and called it a day.

 

Kintaro,

I grew up in Mililani and apparently was just a few years ahead of Creek Boy - small world eh? I've been to the Big Island a couple of times (had a GF from there), but never got the chance to get into the surf up there. I liked the laid back vibe of the Big Island, but after a week it started to get a little too slow for my taste.

 

On Oahu, my favorite spots were Chun's Reef, Alii's, Graveyards, Public's, Kuni's, and the Ala Moana Bowl. It's tough to surf anywhere else now....i suppose i'm a snob

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I wouldn't call you a snob...just a guy that's had a taste of the good life. I'm kind of stoked about moving into a place on Ala Moana about 5 minutes from point panic. Soon my snowboarding life will be pau but the surf will finally get good. Look me up at 909 Kapiolani. 10th floor...brobably the only haole in there.

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hahaha, will do. I lived just off Kapahulu for a while, waikiki is a little bit shady to live in - the Ala Moana side is much nicer.

 

I was just back there last June, so it will probably be a while before I get back and visit all the 'ho brahs'. You should try to hit Kilauea after they get a freak snow storm - some friends of mine did it, said it was pretty fun (and dangerous).

If all else fails, instead of the obligatory trip to Vegas all Hawaii citizens seem to make, you could detour to Tahoe. I know quite a few locals that have moved to the mainland and hit those mountains regularly.

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SirJib, yeah well Surfers is great when it is on, but it isn't known for being the most consistent of places. Having said that, I'm not saying SW Aus is always on either, but you can generally find a decent wave somewhere along the coast down on the south west.

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