Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

actually to my dismay the tent has been replaced by a minshuku between a pair of mountains you've never heard of.

 

oh well, less stuff to carry on the climb

 

btw takkyubin called, i think the skis are in tokyo. guy hung up before i could say anything lol.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

Toque - could you have reached the saddle you were after with crampons? Where you carrying them? I reckon they come in handy over the last stretch so often that they are worth carrying. It hard to tell from the pics, but looks like reasonably ok travel, just risky exposure if you lose footing.

 

I would have roped up and built a ski anchor over that creek hole. It looks like a rock crevasse! Nasty stuff.

 

Absolutely stoked to see you doing this tour in Japan. 1700m is good vert as well!.... Although three hours to the start point is a bit of an expensive price to pay for 1700 ;\)

Link to post
Share on other sites
 Quote:
Originally posted by le spud:
Toque - could you have reached the saddle you were after with crampons? Where you carrying them? I reckon they come in handy over the last stretch so often that they are worth carrying. It hard to tell from the pics, but looks like reasonably ok travel, just risky exposure if you lose footing.

I would have roped up and built a ski anchor over that creek hole. It looks like a rock crevasse! Nasty stuff.

Absolutely stoked to see you doing this tour in Japan. 1700m is good vert as well!.... Although three hours to the start point is a bit of an expensive price to pay for 1700 ;\)
I could have kicked steps in as I was fine using my ice-axe on icy slopes. I wasn't carrying my crampons as nobody else had them. But they were down at the lodge in bag. And as I was the only person with an axe we couldn't go on
The terrain wasn't dangerous but like you say it was the slip that would be bad. Had there been no snow or if it were softer we would have been to the top or our line in 30 minutes
Link to post
Share on other sites

FT was the only person of us that knew the route but he hadn't been into this area for a while

He would have remembered an open waterfall so maybe it was covered last time. I could see it being covered in normal years.

 

But when we were stopped at the bottom I saw a load of traverse tracks and asked FT what the people where doing traversing out higher than us. He didn't know and we realized after they all knew about the open hole. And we should have traversed high.

 

No problems though. We all lived to tell the tale and learned something in the process.

To me it's situations like those that really make a trip memorable. Sure it's dangerous but it also makes it fun to look back on

Link to post
Share on other sites

O11 I brain farted. I havent been down that way in over 2 years and forgot. We were following a different plan, when that went to poop we back tracked to any area that I have skied before. I skied it with big snow before and never saw a hole there. I have marked it down on my routes and wont make the same mistake twice, I guess tahts learning. The thing is we back tracked cause we knew from topos and pics that there were bad cliffs on other lines. It was my mistake 100%.

 

As for the climbing time spud we were doing well till chris took a slip. we made it to our ski line by 10:30 actually slip and all. had Chris not slipped we would have been there at about 10, Toque was. We were also enjoying the day once we gave up on our line.

 

As much as toque says that he would have done it with an axe I wouldnt have. I was just as much afraid of the other side of the ridge. The ice on the ridge was enough to tell me that the line that we wanted to do would be better done in the spring. It will be done though and next time we will go fast and prepared possiblily just toque and I.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My sympathies to your tour partner Chris, injuries are a drag. It is also hard to charge along in a mixed group of varying head strengths, fitness and equipment.

 

It looks like one of the boarders was using the "duck hunting" metal tube snow shoes?? Ok for flat powder, not climbing a hill with packed snow. Fattwins - are your walking in rando boots or hiking in hard soles?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Im still in my comfortable ski boots and skins. when they die ill move over to touring boots. maybe garmonts or lowas. Im not crossing big holes and iceclimbing so ski boots are fine. I will pack crampons from next week though, and bring my ax

Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...