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Chile would be pretty cold. The water temperature in Dunedin isn't actually that cold in winter because of warm currents (I don't know where from). However, it's the air temperatures that will break you. The southerlies blow straight in from Antartica. So it's definitely 5 mm suites, booties, hoodies and gloves (depending on your prefs). Surprisingly, there's a strong surf community down there and it's not like they all pack up and go snowboarding for the winter (though a fair number do or head off to Indo or the Pac isalands).

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Pretty hard to disagree with that viewpoint. Localism should not be confused with thuggery. Unfortunately, surfing attracts its fair share of wankers. I remember one prick who used beat up on high school surfers for dropping in. Then he used to hang around 1st XV games hoping something would kick off between kids from our school and the school that he had already graduated from.

 

Over in Japan, I hear that some of the Wakayama locals are protective. I know a Maori surfer who lived down there who had his motor scooter thrown into the sea while he was surfing. I don't understand it because he has a great attitude and speaks fluent Japanese. I think the main gripe was that he was surfing a point that the locals think of as "secret." They probably expected an influx of gaijins.

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I heard the same thing. I have an older mate from Byron Bay who says NY is not well liked. Even then, you don't like to see legends like this getting involved.

 

The only thing I know about SA surfing is that the shark count is as high as you'll get anywhere.

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from what i've heard NY had it coming to him. i mean, ex world champ at his local spot doesn't just get the sh1t kicked out of him for no reason.

i'm always happy to have a pow wow about surf ethics. i find it really interesting to observe, and to sometimes sit back at look at my own behaviour.

 

it really is remarkable that people have managed to establish a set of formal rules without anything ever being taught, codified or enforced by an umpire. it's self regulating which is what i find fascinating

 

it's also interesting how something which can bring so much pleasure can also cause anger and frustration like nothing else

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That's more or less what my friend says. My friend is about Nat's age so it's not as if he's some young aggro guy. Would like to read his book 'Surf Rage.'

 

I remember almost whacking a snowboarder in Vail who almost took out 3 of us sitting on a bank. I know it's different but I was within a foot of having my head impailed by the edge of a snowboard. 13 years ago, boards were pretty heavy and lethal as well.

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 Originally Posted By: spook


it really is remarkable that people have managed to establish a set of formal rules without anything ever being taught, codified or enforced by an umpire. it's self regulating which is what i find fascinating

it's also interesting how something which can bring so much pleasure can also cause anger and frustration like nothing else


Very true Spook, although there are still some grey areas in those rules. ie How many times do you let a mal rider, or anyone for that matter, keep taking waves form inside you, just because they can. I've had fights about this with one of my brothers. He always paddles up the inside but says " I'm in the right spot, your too far outside". What a load of bollocks!
10-20 meters makes no difference. I always tell him. "Ever wondered why it's called a line up"? " Do you go straight to the front of the queue at the supermarket check-out"?
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Mantas, you have no claim to the wave unless you're sitting in the takeoff!

10-20 metres from takeoff is just asking for scraps and those that sit that far out (on the shoulder) deserve only that.

Fair enough guys that paddale around you in a few metres, taht's cunty, but 10-20 meters, ya just can't complain!

 

Ps. read back and you'll find my family history with the Youngs!

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 Originally Posted By: Indo
Mantas, you have no claim to the wave unless you're sitting in the takeoff!
10-20 metres from takeoff is just asking for scraps and those that sit that far out (on the shoulder) deserve only that.
Fair enough guys that paddale around you in a few metres, taht's cunty, but 10-20 meters, ya just can't complain!



There in lies the problem Indo. Where exactly is 'the take off' or 'the spot' as my bro puts it? Why would I let someone snake me by paddling 10-20 meters inside of me if they don't make the wave? Some blokes do this over and over again.

I'm not out there to watch them do their barrel riding practice.
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What you do is paddle even further inside so that they go so deep that they get smashed and then paddle back inside and get the wide ones..

 

anyway surf here today is tiny and very crowded. I am tossing up whether to go out or just go for a bike ride.

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It's a hard call because depends on the place ya surfing.

A reef takeoff is pretty defined so you'd be mad to paddle to far inside!

A beachie could be arguable, unless it's a point break.

 

Spook, thats a practise I've done many times, paddling them in too far, they get smashed on the ledge and I get my waves! (at my local reefies)

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Good waves up here kokdoko. Small but clean and punchy. Only one other guy out as well.

 

Indo- you know as well as I do that when the swell is on, the 'take off spot' can be as big as half a footy field. 10-20 meters here or there is FA. There's no way I'd take a set wave then paddle back out and plonk myself 10-20 meters inside some guy who is waiting patiently, then claim that I have rights to the next wave because 'I'm in the right spot'. no matter if I was a local legend or otherwise. It's just plane rude. And that sort of behavior leads to dropping in.

 

BTW, that wasn't Spook lol.gif

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I know where ya coming from and I agree with you (in parts).

But my experience with the reefs I surf usually the take off is a pretty defined spot (5 metres is stretching it) and 15-20m and ya shoulder hopping.

Guys get their wave and paddle out around everyone are bastards, and they are everywhere but when a guy is on the shoulder and not in the take off zone does he have a right to get pissed if people paddle past him to the take off zone?

Beachies, well a way harder argument shifty peaks every where and I agree with you there.

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 Originally Posted By: Indo
I know where ya coming from and I agree with you (in parts).
But my experience with the reefs I surf usually the take off is a pretty defined spot (5 metres is stretching it) and 15-20m and ya shoulder hopping.
Guys get their wave and paddle out around everyone are bastards, and they are everywhere but when a guy is on the shoulder and not in the take off zone does he have a right to get pissed if people paddle past him to the take off zone?
Beachies, well a way harder argument shifty peaks every where and I agree with you there.


Not fishing for an arguement Indo, just emphasizing the 'grey area' bit. I agree with what you say too. I cant tell ya how many times I've pulled back because a guy was inside me, only to see him wash up in the foam. I was in the right spot, even if it was on the shoulder. He was too far inside. It's a pet hate of mine.

Waves should be on again tomorrow. I'm gunna hit it early.
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Had my first surf in Japan last month down at Chiba. Stayed at Beachbeds which was cool and Rob down there showed me around and scored some good waves. The place reminded me of Torquay about 15 years ago before the surf scene went nuts. The one thing I found strange was the silence in the water. The J crew didn't talk and no hoots.

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 Originally Posted By: TJ OZ
The place reminded me of Torquay about 15 years ago before the surf scene went nuts.

The one thing I found strange was the silence in the water. The J crew didn't talk and no hoots.


I don't see how you come to that comparison about Torquay and Chiba wakaranai.gif but the silence is a killer eh! A few crew hoot here at 2ft ankle slappers which always make me laugh!
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