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That's interesting.

 

less than 5000 yen is less than the one I showed you, even when discounted. The ones on your page are all cheap too. I wouldn't have thought so.

 

I am not totally up on this subject, I presume there must be advantages to both.... It does look very lovely in person too. I prefer the look of the one I linked (Sapelli) to the ones on that page, Mr Wiggles....

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Plenty of flat roofs in Kutchan. It's generally so you can build closer to your boundary. If you have a roof that sheds the snow you need room for it to shed and not encroach on your neighbours land (

Though its news is not new, you do get some good stuff in the Japan Times. I hope it can keep going in years to come.   Since most Japanese old houses sell at deep discounts to when they were new, i

By the common understanding, I don't think 2 by 4 is a "frame" house. 2 by 4 are used as studs that are sandwiched by plywood which acts as bracing to make structural, i.e, load bearing walls. Remove

Be sure to search for veneer rather ethan laminate (which is probably what el-cheapo apartos have).

 

Lots of people choose veneer over solid wood, as you suggest there are + - of both.

 

Some info here

 

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/engineered-hardwood-floors-what-do-you-need-to-know-renovation-primer-173321

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Yes reading up now. Keen to hear what Mr Wiggles says too.

 

It seems to be one of those things - there's really cheap stuff and really great stuff.

 

Our house isn't going to be high traffic, just the two of us and no pets.

 

I'm just getting rather tired of thinking about all these things full time actually. Can't wait until all the details are fixed up and I can try to think about something else for a change!

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As for the colours, just think how many people have totally different carpets from one room to the next.

 

As long as it's not multiple chopping and changing, and done nicely, I can't see it being a problem at all. Might even add some character.

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I have no doubt that out place is a laminate flooring.

 

It has held up really well with the only real noticeable scratches and dents being where we've stupidly dropped or dragged heavy stuff.

 

That Sapelli one you showed us looks really nice, DumbStick... the slightly darker Wenge one as well.

 

We are actually really thinking of the house thing ourselves now. Thanks for the thread guys!

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Don't get me wrong, veneers can be very good and better than solid wood in some cases. The better comes from them being made of plywood under the surface. Plywood has layers going up-down and left-right, so it doesn't shrink or expand with humidity. Solid wood has fibers in one direction and can shrink a lot, and indoor humidity is all over the shop with the seasons in Japan. An engineered wood veneer will probably do better over underfloor heating too.

 

For durability, I guess you'd want a veneered one to have a thick veneer, and if you walk around barefooted, not such a thick coating on top of it so you can feel the wood under your feet, not just some lacquer. Those may actually go together, because a thin veneer, say 0.5mm, is going to need more protection and will probably get a thicker coat to do so. Maybe Chris will his pens can chime in on the feel of different wood treatments and how long they hold up.

 

If you've got quite heavy ones, put those rubber cup things on the feet of your dining chairs and legs of your dining table. They don't look very good, and the felt ones collect dust, but in our experience its the easiest place for your floor to take a beating.

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Solid wood has fibers in one direction and can shrink a lot, and indoor humidity is all over the shop with the seasons in Japan. An engineered wood veneer will probably do better over underfloor heating too.

 

Out of interest, how do yours cope with that, Mr Wiggles? Admirably?

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We are actually really thinking of the house thing ourselves now. Thanks for the thread guys!

 

If you are doing a 'chumon house' rather than just buying one that is already built or of a set design and specs, be prepared to devote months of your life to sorting out the details!!

 

Good luck.

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We have not gone for solid wood for the reason Mr. Wiggles mentioned the wood expanding and twisting due to the climate in Japan.

 

We have gone for the 15 mm plywood coated floor with a mat finish rather than the really shiny type.

 

It is an upgraded one so it shold last as well as solid wood we hope.

 

The rented place we are in now has a cheaper shiny version of the floor we are putting in and even with two dogs running around on the floor it still looks almost new like so that is why we decided to go with the no solid wood floor.

 

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We are actually really thinking of the house thing ourselves now. Thanks for the thread guys!

 

If you are doing a 'chumon house' rather than just buying one that is already built or of a set design and specs, be prepared to devote months of your life to sorting out the details!!

 

Good luck.

 

gotcha!

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Our floor is solid. I think it was under 5000 a square meter. Its cypress with knots, but they're smaller and much lighter in colour than the knots in pine.

The individual planks are 120mm wide but 3.6 meters long, so there aren't many joins and lots of continuous grain. If knots in wood bother you, its going to be a non starter though.

 

Here's a selection of mostly imported solid flooring. If the budget is tight, cheap wood flooring comes in narrow pieces and in short random lengths joined together. If you want wide pieces of wood that are continuous for say a couple of meters, then yes, you'll have to pay big for a prestiguous wood. For bits that are 90mm wide and joins every 50cm or so, some solid hardwoods aren't expensive.

http://www.sanwacomp...p/shop/c/c3817/

 

I don't know what this company are like for flooring but we bought some marble tiles off them for around our woodstove. Marble might sound super blingy and expensive but it was 7500 a square meter for a massive two and a half square meters. That wouldn't break the budget of many builds.

We used flooring Sanwa Company in 3 rooms in our house.

If you are buying a house or reforming, their free catalogue can help greatly. They sell mostly quality imported items.

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Our floor is solid. I think it was under 5000 a square meter. Its cypress with knots, but they're smaller and much lighter in colour than the knots in pine.

The individual planks are 120mm wide but 3.6 meters long, so there aren't many joins and lots of continuous grain. If knots in wood bother you, its going to be a non starter though.

 

Here's a selection of mostly imported solid flooring. If the budget is tight, cheap wood flooring comes in narrow pieces and in short random lengths joined together. If you want wide pieces of wood that are continuous for say a couple of meters, then yes, you'll have to pay big for a prestiguous wood. For bits that are 90mm wide and joins every 50cm or so, some solid hardwoods aren't expensive.

http://www.sanwacomp...p/shop/c/c3817/

 

I don't know what this company are like for flooring but we bought some marble tiles off them for around our woodstove. Marble might sound super blingy and expensive but it was 7500 a square meter for a massive two and a half square meters. That wouldn't break the budget of many builds.

We used flooring Sanwa Company in 3 rooms in our house.

If you are buying a house or reforming, their free catalogue can help greatly. They sell mostly quality imported items.

 

Does this mean that some of their products are sub standard? ;)

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I asked my friend about this today, finding it all very interesting.

 

He built a house last year and used Woodtec, that same grade as you mention dumbstick just a different color. He seems extremely pleased with it.

 

Does anyone know the kind of "about" costs of 100sqm, 200sqm and 300sqm of land in difference places. I suppose that cost is going to be a considerable one, and if you can get decent land at a good price, you will be able to spend more on the house.

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Our floor is solid. I think it was under 5000 a square meter. Its cypress with knots, but they're smaller and much lighter in colour than the knots in pine.

The individual planks are 120mm wide but 3.6 meters long, so there aren't many joins and lots of continuous grain. If knots in wood bother you, its going to be a non starter though.

 

Here's a selection of mostly imported solid flooring. If the budget is tight, cheap wood flooring comes in narrow pieces and in short random lengths joined together. If you want wide pieces of wood that are continuous for say a couple of meters, then yes, you'll have to pay big for a prestiguous wood. For bits that are 90mm wide and joins every 50cm or so, some solid hardwoods aren't expensive.

http://www.sanwacomp...p/shop/c/c3817/

 

I don't know what this company are like for flooring but we bought some marble tiles off them for around our woodstove. Marble might sound super blingy and expensive but it was 7500 a square meter for a massive two and a half square meters. That wouldn't break the budget of many builds.

We used flooring Sanwa Company in 3 rooms in our house.

If you are buying a house or reforming, their free catalog can help greatly. They sell mostly quality imported items.

 

Does this mean that some of their products are sub standard? ;)

 

TB - that was my disclaimer in case anyone buys something from there and they are not happy with the quality

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Does anyone know the kind of "about" costs of 100sqm, 200sqm and 300sqm of land in difference places. I suppose that cost is going to be a considerable one, and if you can get decent land at a good price, you will be able to spend more on the house.

 

Reckon it should be, gifugill, it's not cheap.

Good to hear though.

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Does anyone know the kind of "about" costs of 100sqm, 200sqm and 300sqm of land in difference places. I suppose that cost is going to be a considerable one, and if you can get decent land at a good price, you will be able to spend more on the house.

 

We paid an absolutely outrageously expensive 3万円 per tsubo (about 10000 yen per sq. m)

 

:)

 

This has allowed us to spend more on the house.

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Solid wood has fibers in one direction and can shrink a lot, and indoor humidity is all over the shop with the seasons in Japan. An engineered wood veneer will probably do better over underfloor heating too.

 

Out of interest, how do yours cope with that, Mr Wiggles? Admirably?

 

The joins in our floor become wider in winter, so it took us by surprise to be honest. Some of the other trim carpentry in the house has shrunk too.

That's what you get with real wood. In the house we lived in before, all the trim carpentry (skirting boards, window sills etc.) were made of MDF made to look like wood.

I don't think there was any wood on view in the house at all.

 

We wanted to use natural materials and this is part of the deal, as is the little bit of maintenance you have to do. The upside is that wood is beautiful, can be sanded or stained, and doesn't affect people like some materials can. Dings and wear also add to the character of real wood. A bit of the ol' "sabi" or patina or whatever you want to call it. Man made stuff doesn't take damage as well.

If you like walking barefoot, solid wood that is merely oiled or waxed feels really nice.

 

Note that by the normal definition, laminated flooring is not veneer. Veneer is thinly sliced real wood on a base. Laminate can be just plastic or paper made to look like wood on a base with some super strong probable petrochemical on the top to protect it. Veneer is used on the dashboard of a Rolls Royce or on a mega expensive art deco table, some very high end stuff.

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How was your ceremony, snowdude?

 

Yes do tell!

:)

 

 

Very interesting.

First the priest and another helper set up a portable shrine with a fence around it bang in the middle of were the house is too be built.

They then add fruit and food as well as make a small mountain with in the fenced in area.

 

Then the ceremony begins well that is after he explains to us what we should do.

 

He chats out some blessing incliding our names the address of the land size of the oand and the name of the builder.

Then we have to cut some bamboo from the top of the mountain while also digging the mountain.

The builder then has to dig the soil.

After the priest sprinkles salt and like confetti at each corner of the house as well as purifying the corners with sake.

 

We then finish by drinking or pretend to drink sake before the ceremony finishes.

 

It was interesting to watch and to take part in quite an eye opener really.

 

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