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A small radius is hooky and agile at slow speeds but requires skidded turns at high speed. Big radius is the opposite. Im playing with big sidecut radii now as im happy skidding turns at slow speed in exchange for laying train track style carves at maximum velocity. Last year i was straightlining that big groomer under the gondola (super east?) that is the type of speed i want to be laying carves at instead of having to skid turn.

Its kind of the same reason as to why a dragster is 300" wheel base. Stability at speed, less twitchy etc.

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Its almost finished and Im stoked on how it come up for my first shot at board building. This crazy idea was born after coming home from japan with my DIY swallowtail supermodel, the swallowtail work

It looks like you could use the back part as an bottle opener for an enormous bottle of beer, if you should find one that big!  

Awesome job mate, looks SICK! Can always hang it on the wall if it rides like a pig (not that it will by the looks)   How does the flex feel just playing around with it? Bit more play than your oth

Nope. Other than a long radius board generally being wider in the middle so therefore more surface area for a given length=floaty float float.

Goz From previous threads I get the feeling you like longer boards for the more surface area/ more float. Do you ever go shorter / wider for the same effect? pros/cons with respect to riding pow?

Pretty sure the quest is to tailor boards to get the best riding experience on Hokkaido Powder days. Is the 164 going to be wider?

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Nope. Other than a long radius board generally being wider in the middle so therefore more surface area for a given length=floaty float float.

Goz From previous threads I get the feeling you like longer boards for the more surface area/ more float. Do you ever go shorter / wider for the same effect? pros/cons with respect to riding pow?

Pretty sure the quest is to tailor boards to get the best riding experience on Hokkaido Powder days. Is the 164 going to be wider?

Surface area = float but is doesnt = performance on piste.

To get a board to carve well (to my liking) it needs to have a longish effective edge and camber sections outside of the bindings, then to make it work in powder it has to have a long gradual upturn profile for the nose, this results in a long board. I didnt choose a length of 180 for the swallowtail board, its just what it had to be and it worked incredibly well.

 

This year I am designing some shorter boards with longer sidecut radii which mean that they will have similar (still less) surface area compared to the 180 but the trade off will be traction and stability due to shorter effective edge but I am hoping to get some high speed stability back with the long radius sidecut.

 

The hammerhead design is a 170 with a square nose to maximise surface area up front. If you look at that design its not a nose cut short, its a nose left really wide, if I trimmed the edges in it would look more like a normal board. In a world where nose float is everything I thought why cut material off? I should make it as big and wide as I can hence the square shape. This board also has 40mm taper from front to back which is pretty extreme. This board has less focus on groomer performance than my others.

Im not even sure I will like it, buts its an idea I have and its worth a try.

 

The 164 is pretty sneaky, Its a copy of my 180 birdman shape, 80mm off the effective edge, 20mm off the nose and 60mm off the tail (moon cut) but with big sidecut radius it gains back some of the surface area. Its going to be a split,so im chasing weight with its design, its smaller than i would ever design a solid for myself. I will also be making it thinner and using some carbon to stiffen it up

 

I can throw around a 180 no problems so Im really not worried about going short like 99% of the snowboarding world is, I dont do park, I just like to bomb groomers and ride as fast as I can through the trees. Im pretty oddball lol so this is why I felt I should build my own boards.

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Oh, that's gorgeous.

Agree.

 

What's the little wood box with top / bottom on top of the press do?

Space/time continuum :D

 

Nah it is a housing with 2 controllers that individually control the heat blankets

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Firstly, thats a sexy piece of equipment there. What's the base made out of? Do you put p-tex or something like that on the base? Or do you go with the wood base as well.

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Cheers dunga. I use isosport 7500 sintered uhmw base material. Its really fast and actually better quality than any of the mass produced boards use.

Here is a pic of it pre base grind. I just cleaned up the edges on the linisher and will profile the sidewalls tonight

 

20131017_132001_zps8d8e5ca1.jpg

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