TR: Our trip to Japan (Hakuba, Shiga Kogen & Nozawa)

[BagOfCrisps 24]

Our third visit to Japan! It all seems so long ago now, but what fun we had.

 

This long-awaited report is more about the places and people than talk of 'lines' and 'faceshots'. (Also having a bit of a problem with the photo memory card, so photos are going to have to be added at a later date).

 

It took us ages to decide where to go this season but after a lot of deliberation we decided on a Nagano Combination Sando - with Hakuba, Shiga Kogen and Nozawa as the ingredients.

 

Both 2pints,mate and I are not fans of the long flight to Japan but we were excited about what was to come so with a few beers it seemed to pass by fairly quick and before we knew it we found ourselves in Tokyo.

 

We spent two nights in Tokyo – first one was just getting some energy back and second night we took a look round a few rocking places in Shibuya. We weren’t bothered about having late mad nights though as snowboarding and the snow was the reason we were here and wanted to make the most of that.

 

I’ve mentioned this on the Forums before but our holiday is as much about experiencing Japan and meeting the locals and taking it all in as is it about the snowboarding (which of course we also obviously enjoy). We both live and work in London. We’re surrounded by people from the UK, Australia, US and Canada each and every day (international or what, are you impressed?), and have nights out and parties with them as part of our normal routine. So to us it seems such a waste to travel all the way to Japan to do pretty much the same. Change of scenery, that’s what it’s all about. So we have always been looking to stay in nice places owned and run by Japanese, check out izakaya and Japanese bars and generally stay away from “gaijin bars” and the like. Nothing against gaijin of course (after all, we are they) and having said that, we did actually meet a good few people – including a few characters from these here forums.

 

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First snow stop, Hakuba. We had been to Hakuba before for a short time so knew a bit what to expect. The mountains look incredible, the scale is big, but we both couldn’t help but feel some sense of disappointment. Perhaps it was the fact that we had been before so it wasn’t “new”. Perhaps it was because the snow wasn’t as good as last time. Perhaps it was just all those goddam foreigners walking around town making it feel like, er, not Japan. (Just kidding. A bit). Can’t quite put a finger on it.... We did have a great time though. Happo was the highlight, though Tsugaike was good when we went (fresh snow). Stayed in a very nice Japanese/Western style hotel near Happo.

 

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Next stop Shiga Kogen. What a place. Fantastic. Can’t really say much against Shiga Kogen. It is well-known for not having nightclubs and tons of après-ski going on, but again, that’s not really what we were there for – and actually we did find a few lively places with some fun people in the Ichinose area. It took 3 days to cover the place it is so big. Favourite area was surely Yakebitaiyama. It's a pity that Okushiga doesn’t open up to snowboarders as that area looked good as well. The snow was a level up from what we found in Hakuba, perhaps that was just timing. It wasn’t as busy either, at times we felt like the slopes were ours. On one day there were a load of school trip groups on Ichinose but we just avoided that and slipped by on our own slopes. Highly recommended (as is that bread at the top of Yokoteyama).

 

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Last stop was Nozawa. Obviously Nozawa is very popular on here and always seems to be spoken of with fond memories and always high on the rankings. And quite deserved too I think. We stayed in perhaps the nicest most modern ryokan in Nozawa and it was a fantastic place slap bang in the middle of the village and at the same time not far from the slopes. It didn’t snow that much while we were there but had just before so we had good snow conditions again especially on the first day. The place is much bigger than it looks when you look at the mountain from the village. As many of you no doubt know, you can’t actually see much of the resort from the village. Up at the top though the snow was peachy and again it just wasn’t busy at all and we didn’t wait for a lift once. Off the snow the village is quite quaint and we found a few good onsen and a few bars that were pretty lively. It had an atmosphere that was lacking in both Hakuba and Shiga Kogen and lets hope it doesn’t lose that. I have heard stories of it being empty and quiet but on the few nights we were there it was pretty lively.

 

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One of the things we really like about going to Japan is meeting the locals and trying to get along with our very basic Japanese skills but the essential positive attitude. It’s a lot of fun and I highly recommend it to anyone taking the trouble to visit Japan. We can only say good things about Japanese hospitality, they seem to often go right out of their way to look after you. It is always a refreshing change from UK service and going back home is a real jolt to the system.

 

In Hakuba, the Japanese owner of the place we stayed at was a right laugh. He had a few beers & sake with us one night and started on the subject of foreigners invading the village. He most definitely had mixed feelings about it and said those feelings were shared by quite a few people... while good for business generally, he was concerned about a few “shady characters” (his words) and things “changing too fast”. Very decent bloke and not just stupidly mouthing off either. Good to hear his informed point of view on what is happening.

 

We didn’t meet many “locals” in Shiga Kogen. (Are there any locals?) But we did meet a good few Japanese people in Ichinose and Sun Valley who were on holiday and 2pints also met the lady of his dreams. (Unfortunately, she is now only in his dreams, poor lad!)

 

Nozawa was full of characters and they were without exception full of friendliness. Found an izakaya that was run by some dude who wanted to speak English (so we made a move to another place pretty sharpish!) and eventually a popular bar that had a few raucous groups of Japanese snowboarders. (Almost all of them with very silly-looking-but-obviously-fashionable frizzy hair... what’s with that then?).

 

After Nozawa it was back to via Nagano, completely knackered but satisfied and with 2pints already missing Mrs Dream.

 

OK so here’s our excite rankings from our holiday. (Knowing the huge effect these rankings will have on the local economies, we do not post these in haste but after careful consideration!)

 

SNOW CONDITIONS:

Hakuba – 6

Shiga Kogen – 9

Nozawa Onsen – 8

 

THE RESORTS:

Hakuba – 7

Shiga Kogen – 9

Nozawa Onsen - 8

 

NIGHTLIFE:

Hakuba – 7

Shiga Kogen – 5

Nozawa Onsen – 8

 

PEOPLE & HOSPITALITY:

Hakuba – 9

Shiga Kogen – 9

Nozawa Onsen – 10

 

GENERAL:

Hakuba – 7

Shiga Kogen – 9

Nozawa Onsen – 8

 

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So what next? Next winter we plan to go back to Japan but this time explore completely new places. We’d both like to check out Niseko while they still at least understand the Japanese language there but we’re thinking more “Tohoku Tour” for February 2009. Get away from the crowds, see some country.

[spook 0]

well it's about bloody time!

nice little write up. looking forward to the pics

[big-will 7]

Great write up Bag.

( Shame on you for those Hakuba scores though! )

 

Hope to see photos.

 

I bet a Tohoku tour will be good, though probably need a bit more planning.

[soubriquet 0]

Thanks BoC. Nice one. Look forward to seeing you in Tohoku next year.

[thursday 1]

Nice little write up. Who were the forumers you met?

[BagOfCrisps 24]

Thank you thank you. I met joshnii, brit-gob and -20.7.

 

(I also met 2pints, mate way too much)

 

[minus 1]

Yeah great to meet you guys even if it was just for a short time.

 

Good report.

(I wonder who the 'shady characters' are?)

[quattro 1]

Sounds like you guys had a great time. look fwd to the pics.

[2pints-mate 0]

Good report Bag - it sounds like we had a lot of fun!

 

The guy wouldn't elaborate on the identity of those shady characters but it sure was an interesting conversation.

 

[thursday 1]

2pints, do the man thing. Go get your lady, rose in hand.

[Ewok 2 1]

interesting read, thank you

[muikabochi 208]

Thanks for sharing. Sounds good. Interesting to see your scores.

[journey_man 0]

Cool TR! Thanks.

 

How about basing yourself out of Asahikawa next time? Very few people so virtually no Gaijin and the lightest pow ever...

[OkemoLoon 0]

this TR is worthless without pix

[2pints-mate 0]

 Originally Posted By: thursday.

2pints, do the man thing. Go get your lady, rose in hand.

It is tempting.

[tripitaka 0]

Nice review there. I also feel that there are a few shadeys in Hakuba and they probably know who they are. Also, I see more foreigners there than I usually see in my daily life in Japan's second biggest city. The Aussies I met who are investing into Hakuba seemed like very nice, genuine people who can do good things for the local economy. It would be very hypocritical of the Japanese locals to be overly suspicious given that Nagano (including Hakuba) is known as one of the most corrupt prefectures in Japan.

 

I need to get to SK and NO. Probably things to do when I quit work later in the year.

 

Make an effort to speak Japanese and people respond. That's my expereince too.

[2pints-mate 0]

 Quote:

It would be very hypocritical of the Japanese locals to be overly suspicious given that Nagano (including Hakuba) is known as one of the most corrupt prefectures in Japan.

Rather wild broad strokes there don't you think?!

Even such a fact (?) hardly means that good local people are not allowed to have informed opinions and feelings on what is happening in their local community does it? I'm sure they know much more about the situation than you do - or indeed all of the people arriving in the last few years.

[thursday 1]

change may not be inevitable, but when it comes and comes rapidly, locals will feel that they have missed the boat or feel hard done by with foreigners milking the cash cow that perhaps had always been there but not exploited.

 

Bound to be some resentment. It's natural.

[2pints-mate 0]

There was no sign of resentment about missing any boat. This guy was obviously well off and doing well and as Bags said he was positive about some of the potential benefits. That wasn't his point...

[BagOfCrisps 24]

2pints just said it. Not resentment. He was concerned about those shady characters, what they were doing and the long-term plan for Hakuba.

[thursday 1]

I was more commenting on triptaka's comment, not the EXCELLENT TR.

[2pints-mate 0]

 

(I think we owe another one too don't we?)

[tripitaka 0]

2PM, no offence intended to your host but I stand my comment that it would be hypocritical of the Japanese locals being overly suspicious of "foreign investors." Like I said, the prefecture (including hakuba) has been a source of Japan's most deep-seated corruption post-WW2. Japanese themselves are well aware of it. Attitudes and practices here don't change fast, and there is a lot of complicity. There will be other Japan-based foreigners who should know what I'm talking about it. So, yes, I feel it's a bit ripe for any Japanese being "overly" suspicous of foreign intentions.

 

Any foreign shadeys in Hakuba will probably be operating on a low level. We're not talking the Gambino family here.

[tripitaka 0]

 Originally Posted By: thursday.

change may not be inevitable, but when it comes and comes rapidly, locals will feel that they have missed the boat or feel hard done by with foreigners milking the cash cow that perhaps had always been there but not exploited.

I find that almost laughable. The locals made a killing during the bubble era. The foreigners are picking up the pieces from the drunken orgy.

[2pints-mate 0]

No offence taken.

Think what you want mate.... obviously you will!!