TR: Upper Bavaria, Germany

[Mike Pow 52]

Many thanks to Steilhang, ami in berlin, mountainaddict, and scottishskier from the snowheads forum and Toadman, burny, freak, klar, Marius, Hicks, beer30, DeutschBag, and TomyLight from the TGR forum for all their pre-trip advice and help.

 

My brother came home to Wales to look after our Dad so I could get the fxxx out of Dodge for a few days R&R.

 

I was flying solo, so no action shots just scenics and info.

 

 

DAY 1: WEDNESDAY 17th FEBRUARY 2010

 

Half-term school holiday week in the UK and a very small window of opportunity so I was looking for:

 

1. an area that I hadn't been to before which offered good and interesting skiing

 

2. a cheapish flight from my local airport, Cardiff

 

3. a ski area that was close to the arrival airport

 

4. an area that wasn't rammed by British holidaymakers

 

 

Munich and Upper Bavaria was the answer.

 

 

 

As I was arriving in Munich after 9pm I decided to base myself in Bayrischzell. Chose this village as it was the most convenient to get to late at night from Munich, and it would allow me to ski on the Saturday morning before heading back home.

 

Got dropped off at Cardiff airport at 3pm and flew to Munich via Amsterdam with KLM.

 

COST: 319.00 euro r/t

 

 

Arrived on time in Munich, with my bags , and it was an easy train ride from Munich airport to Munich main station on the Deutsch Bahn and then an hour wait before boarding the Bayerische Oberlandbahn (BOB) train to Bayrischzell.

 

COST: 22.50 euro one way

 

deutschebahn

 

BOB

 

 

I'd booked two nights accommodation at the Hotel Alpenrose through booking.com, and put a note with the booking saying I'd be arriving after 1am

 

COST: 45.00 euro per night B&B in a single room

 

 

The hotel was about 100m from the train station (which I didn't know beforehand - I'd booked by availability and price) but all the doors to the hotel were locked on arrival. I knocked to no avail so took a walk through the village to see if I could find the tourist information centre.

 

Thankfully there was a hotel board with phone numbers outside the info centre and a phone that was free for local calls.

 

The manager was far from happy being called in the middle of the night, but had opened up for me by the time I'd walked back to the hotel. I explained that I'd put a note with my booking, and he told me that it hadn't come through to him.

 

So I'd either recommend booking direct or emailing him about your arrival info if it's outside normal hours.

 

Got to bed around 2am, looking forward to skiing mountains, and having mechanised uplift after a winter hiking for turns in Wales.

 

 

 

DAY 2: THURSDAY 18th FEBRUARY 2010

 

The Alpenrose is a warm, comfortable hotel with a great welcome, service and food. Stefan, the manager, speaks perfect English and is very helpful. It's a very convenient hotel just 100m from the train station and 5 mins walk to everything you need in Bayrischzell.

 

I was the only non-German in the hotel, and to my knowledge the village. They didn't hold that against me. Well not to my face anyway.

 

After a good night's sleep, it was on to the included buffet breakfast which was delicious, nutritious and prodigious.

 

Organised a pair of Salomon 24h slalom skis & poles at Sport Alm for 41 euro for two days. When I took them back on day 3, they said don't worry about it. Score.

 

COST: 41.00 euro for 3 days ski rental

 

Sport Alm

 

 

And then I was off to Wendelsteinbahn, just one stop on the BOB train from Bayrischzell.

 

COST: 3.00 euro r/t

 

Wendelsteinbahn 1

Wendelsteinbahn 2

 

 

From the bottom left of the trailmap you can see that you can take the BOB train from Bayrischzell one stop to Osterhofen, walk 50m to the end of the platform, click into your skis, ski the piste that runs through a tunnel underneath the train tracks and glide down to the gondola base station a minute later. Perfect.

 

COST: 27.00 euro for Wendelsteinbahn lift ticket

 

 

 

The snow wasn't the greatest and it was pretty cloudy to start the day, but man it was fabulous to be in the mountains.

 

View from Wendelstein Chapel

 

 

 

Wendelstein Chapel

 

 

Wendelstein Chapel detail

 

 

Skied down to Brannenburg on mixed snow - packed powder, warmed up heavy powder, hardpack, slush, snirt (snow and dirt mix) - through open bowls, chutes, mogul fields, rock gardens, steep forests, and farmers' fields and after pea and ham soup for lunch caught the train back to the top.

 

COST: 11 euro for mineral water, pea & ham soup, 500ml beer and an espresso

 

 

Penis envy in Brannenburg station

 

 

 

Wendelstein rack and pinion railway, the fog in the valley starting to lift

 

 

 

Three quarters of the way up the train stopped, and the driver, 3 ski instructors and myself got out to shovel off a small slide that had buried the tracks. 20 mins later we were on our way. First time that's happened to me.

 

 

 

View of the top station of the Wendelsteinbahn

 

 

 

Took another lap down to the Mitteralm stop on the railway through this chute. The snow was shaded and chalky and made for the best turns of the day.

 

 

 

Late afternoon the clouds parted, the sun came out, and I got to see the whole area. Magnificent.

 

Ski Patrol surveying the mountain on the last cable car of the day

 

 

 

Wendelstein cable car coming in to dock at the top station

 

 

 

Lines straight off the cable car

 

 

 

Looking back to the valley floor

 

 

 

Panorama of the upper slopes of Wendelsteinbahn and Sudelfeld resort from the lookout platform on Gacher Blick

 

 

 

Bayrischzell and the upper slopes of Sudelfeld resort from Wendelsteinbahn

 

 

 

Never more than 10 people on the cable car and no lines to get on the t-bars. With good snow the mountain would be superb. Thoroughly recommended.

 

At day's end I skied right on to the BOB train platform, and 10 mins later I was back in the hotel. An excellent first day.

[HelperElfMissy 42]

Awesome MikePOW!

 

We were in Munich January 09, skied in Zermatt prior - we knew there were ski resorts around Munich, but didn't visit any. I reckon when I show Papa this thread he is going to want to return!

 

Thanks for sharing.

[muikabochi 208]

Excellent!

[quattro 1]

Lived their back in the 90's. Brings back a lot of old memories. Use to be able to sit on my balcony and see the Wendelstein.

 

Glad to hear you had a good time on some hills that I considered local.

[thursday 1]

great report

[SKI 15]

Lovely, great to see that Mike. Love those 'rocks' by the ropeway, very different from Japan sceney.

[xxx 2]

Great photos as always Mike.Doesn't look a huge amount of snow up there.

Are we just spoiled with peak season Japan madness?

[Metabo Oyaji 71]

Looks fantastic.

[Mike Pow 52]

Thanks all.

 

Yes experiencing Japan spoils you.

[Jynxx 4]

Great to hear you liked Wendelstein. Bit surprised you didn't go to Garmisch-P area.

 

Feb this year has been disappointing. The snow at the glaciers were better in late Oct early Nov.

I was at Spitzingsee (which is next to Wendelstein) on Thurs, Fri the week before Mikepow, because it snowed where we live and I assumed it was gonna be great on the mountain. Went for the first lift and the snow was blown. Tracked out everywhere, and no fresh snow. Piste was groomed and without people I was able to go non stop without worry about someone traversing in front. That was good.

Hence, for the mid-term which means Missus' freetime, we went to check out Kitsbuhel's freeriding area. Mon 15th Feb and Tuesday 16th were the better days for snow, but very crowded! We are not used to waiting at the lift, and dodging people on the slope. Most of the easy-to-access freeride area was tracked out and the places that wasn't looked sus and dangerous. Even in tree area where there is an open space ..

Wed, Thurs, due to the warm weather the snow got worse. Wet, Heavy towards the bottom and the places were it's steep and grassy had the whole slab slide in width of 5~8m . The piste got cut up, too.

Friday 19th, Forecast was snow but it didn't happen. It was a colder day, the piste was gloomed so that was really good.

 

Getting a little bit of snow here and there.. So, I'm just here and there myself.

 

By the way, that billy-boy is so tight I can't put them on. Proof that a lot of Germans have small ...

[Mike Pow 52]

Been back through the Wendelstein web site archive section.

 

Some stunning images from Claudia Hinz.

 

January 2009 is a good place to start

[Mike Pow 52]

DAY 3: FRIDAY 19th FEBRUARY 2010

 

I'd only booked two nights accommodation at the Alpenrose (Wed and Thur) thinking I'd move on to Mittenwald for Friday night. More than enough to see and do in this area, so I decided to stay on.

 

The hotel was fully booked for Friday night, so before breakfast I'd packed my bags and stored them at reception hoping for a cancellation in order to avoid changing hotels.

 

After another hearty breakfast I took the BOB train four stops to Fischhausen-Neuhaus (20 mins), where a bus was waiting to go up to the Spitzingsee ski area (20 mins).

 

COST: 6.40 euro r/t on the train

 

COST: 2.50 euro r/t on the bus

 

 

Spitzingsee-Tegernsee 1

Spitzingsee-Tegernsee 2

 

COST: 30.00 euro for Spitzingsee lift ticket (with 3 euro refund if you returned the plastic lift card at day's end)

 

 

Spitzingsee Ski Area

 

 

 

Spitzingsee is Very well organised and laid out, with on-mountain accommodation, restaurants and services. Transport links are excellent.

 

Skied the Stumpfling side in the morning, and experienced my only queuing of the trip. But there is a singles line at the quad so I was on in under 5 mins.

 

 

 

Skied down to the t-bar that takes you up to Roskopf and then skied the black run off the back of it. Ducked into the trees after the first pitch and skied spongy, lightly tracked pow back to the base of the beginner t-bar.

 

Second lap I dropped down to the Rottasch-Egern side. Thinner coverage and a combination of hard-packed and spongy pow but some great terrain through the trees and under the chairlift.

 

Then back over to Roskopf and hiked the ridge line to the two gladed bowls between Roskopf and Rotkopf

 

 

 

and Rotkopf and Stolzenberg

 

 

 

Some really good skiing either side of the ridge line through steep, old growth forests, thinning out to mellow bowls set amongst summer pasture land.

 

The summer road back to the beginner t-bar was a real 'Mr Toad's Wild Ride'.

 

20 mins or so of hiking takes you to the best of the Stumpfling area and in new snow you'd be skiing untracked all day.

 

 

Caught the bus to the Taubenstein area in the afternoon, and took a gondola with the only other Brit I met on the trip. He was out with his sons and daughter and their young families, and had been coming to this area for the past 5 years.

 

 

 

Skied the main bowl (red 10) and the cat track around to the t-bar below Rauhkopf. Did one lap on very mixed snow and bumps, then went back up an skied down to take a look at the backside of Rauhkopf.

 

Access was through a turnstile. The two bowls I skied in the Stumpfling area can be seen in the distance

 

 

 

and there was some excellent yo yo skiing off the back of Rauhkopf

 

 

 

 

 

From my vantage point the resort facing cirque off the Jagerkamp-Benzingspitz ridgeline looked very inviting and accessibile with a little hoof. The line I was looking at is the one with an arrow over the top of it

 

 

 

Bootpacked it past a very cool looking hut and had a quick chat to a couple out for an afternoon tour.

 

 

 

 

 

Getting closer to the line

 

 

 

After about 40 mins I got to the summit of Benzingspitz that afforded views down to the towns of Neuhaus on the left and Fischbachau on the right

 

 

 

Then it was the final ridgeline walk to see if the line was doable. Looking in

 

 

 

I'd love to be able to write that I pointed it and and skied the chicane of the couloir in one shot out onto the apron.

 

The reality was exhausting jump turns, sinking up to knee deep in off-white slurpy every other turn, followed by some side slipping in what was at times a 5m wide channel trying to avoid rocks.

 

I was shitting myself at the top, but once past the crux it was all good. Even had some boot top heavy pow in the apron.

 

There is some great terrain on the Taubenstein side which would be magic in pow. Or spring conditions. Or in good light.

 

Missed the bus back to Fischhausen-Neuhaus, but managed to hitchhike a ride with a couple from Augsburg. Got to the train station as the train back to Bayrischzell was leaving, which meant a cold hour waiting for the next one.

 

Got back to the hotel at 6:35 and Stefan (manager) told me that he had a cancellation at 6:25! Put me in a different room, smaller and on the top floor, but also 5 euro less than the previous room.

 

COST: 40.00 euro per night B&B in a single room

 

 

If I'd made the earlier train I would have spent the hour walking the village looking for a room. Things happen for a reason.

 

Quick shower, then an excellent dinner and drinks in the hotel, the Men's Super G from Whistler in the lounge, and then slept the sleep of the gods.

 

COST: 24.50 euro for goulash soup, jagerschnitzel (3 schnitzels with a mushroom sauce and spaetzle), small bottle of Proseco, large bottle of mineral water, 2 espresso, and 1 grappa

[stemik 14]

great report as always .....looks pretty tight that chute.

 

I miss jagerschnitzel.....and German girls

[Mike Pow 52]

Thanks.

 

Yeah it was tough going in those conditions.

 

Quote:

I miss jagerschnitzel.....and German girls

 

Me too. Me too.

[Jynxx 4]

Wha ! sussed out the whole area in one day. Amazing report with pics where most people don't get to see.

 

I have never imagined anyone, would, could, go down that cute. That's mad !

You are on a different level. BAD ASS !

[SKI 15]

Sugoi!

[Mike Pow 52]

Thanks Ski

 

 

Originally Posted By: Jynxx

Wha ! sussed out the whole area in one day. Amazing report with pics where most people don't get to see.

 

I have never imagined anyone, would, could, go down that cute. That's mad !

You are on a different level. BAD ASS !

 

Thanks Jynxx. More an overview, but definitely found some great stuff. Would love to ski it in great snow.

[Jynxx 4]

2 weeks before you were there, it was about 70cm on the mountains and one lady whom ski toured died from avalanche. Now it's about 40cm. Not much occasion of snow falling this year but it started snowing yesterday but very windy at the moment.

You are very inspiring. Looking after your folks and doing what you are doing. Now I wonder if I am living my life to full potential under my chosen circumstance with my Missus. (My Missus had been ill, she is doing well now)

I used to look at the mountains and see potential flight paths, wind, (I ground launch). I think I don't see anymore and that applied to the extent of my life. Admittedly, I'm a bit shell-shocked from life and I can't take things seriously, or getting out of the house, my own shell, so to speak.

Spitzingsee is my local area, and I think you saw something I didn't see there. I'm glad you did and thanks for waking me up a bit.

Mamabear talks about missing out on opportunities because thing were not perfect, and I think about that in this instance. Hopefully our paths will cross sometimes in the future - but this time it was not meant to be.

Missus is talking about picking up skis. Apparently she is not a bad skier according to her dad.

[Jynxx 4]

You probably would enjoy Brauneck, a short walk from Lenggries station on the BOB. Although the lift connection isn't that great. Kind of reminds me of a Japanese ski-jyo.

 

If you do get a chance, Berchtesgaden Jennerbahn.

Salzburg gives you lots of options.

[quattro 1]

The Wilder Kaiser area is not too far from where you were at. Great area covers about 5 interconnected areas.

 

http://www.wilderkaiser.info/en/

[Jynxx 4]

Update on the Spitzingsee area.

Friday afternoon started snowing and Ssturday had snow showers during the day and in the evening. Was very tempted to go on this weekend, but we do avoid this area on weekends unless ski touring.

The snow that we are seeing is light, fluffy and it's great! (And this is at my house level) Problem is that it was windy, and this snow would not have stuck and drifts would have accumulated that would be very sensitive. Guess what. On Saturday 6, two people got caught by an avalanche, one of them dead. Here's the location.

 

 

 

[Jynxx 4]

Thanks SJF, I was struggling with that.

Basic German explanation,

1 & 2 are where they were found.

Top red circle, Auslosebereich - where it happened.

You can see where they were ascending, Aufstiegsspur.

 

Note it is still tree line level below 1500m.

Also close to Taubensteinhaus - see the gelende map.

[Mike Pow 52]

Thanks for the updates and props Jynnx.

 

Did my first season in Ellmau Quattro. Excellent area. Loved it.

 

 

DAY 4: SATURDAY 20th FEBRUARY 2010

 

Woke to the sound of the snowplow and between 5-10cm of light, dry powder in the village. The decision to stay put had paid off.

 

 

 

Showered, packed, stored my bags at reception, breakfasted, and on the Skibus Bayrischzell to the local hill, Sudelfeld, at 8:30. The bus stop is in front of the train station, and it's free. Someone had left this chocolate Santa on the bus stop bench.

 

 

 

Got off at the Schwebelift stop and walked up to the single chair base station - ticket office and one restaurant. The road is pretty steep and I wouldn't recommend it for families.

 

 

Sudelfeld 1

Sudelfeld 2

 

 

COST: 30.00 euro for Sudelfeld lift ticket (with 3 euro refund if you returned the plastic lift card at day's end)

 

 

The extent of the queue for first chair at Sudelfeld on a powder day!

 

 

 

As I got higher on the single chair the weather closed in and it continued to snow. And the end of pics. There's some excellent gladed terrain back to the base of the single chair, but it needs a good base. Lots of deadfall.

 

 

 

 

Sudelfeld Ski Area

 

 

 

Took the quad and then the t-bar to the top of the system and spent most of the morning skiing laps down to the Rosengasse t-bar station. Up to knee deep of light powder on a crusty, hard base, and nobody skiing where I was.

 

Best skiing is in this area and the hike to terrain off Kleiner Traithen. Pics from scottishskier's thread:

 

TR: Bumbling Around Bavaria

 

 

3 great hours then back to the hotel to re-pack, wash up, and load up for the train back to Munich airport. Easy, stress free journey and I Was back in cardiff at 9pm

 

COST: 22.50 euro one way

 

 

Fabulous, fabulous area and wonderful people. Would definitely recommend and return to this area. Plenty of skiing, plenty of challenge, bags of charm, and to my mind very reasonable prices.

 

The AlpenPlus area

 

 

TOTAL COST: 706.40 euro (of which 319 euro was the flight)

[Jynxx 4]

Sudelfeld area has lots of possibility when it snows. But you got to be there at the right time or otherwise it gets chopped up with piled up heavy snow bumps. The place doesn't get groomed very often (it's comparatively large for a local ski-jo) and it gets challenging at steep sections when it's like that on snowboard.

Only 2 lifts. The first single is like out of history. I was telling my missus it reminded me of when I started ski. With snowboard strapped on, my thigh was hurting and I was wiggling all the way up. Everything else is T-bar. If you don't like T-bar you are stuffed. More suited to skiers.

 

I have to apologize for a little mix up. The avalanche story I posted happened on the 6th Feb. (11 days before Mike was there) The one that happened on 7th March was at Großer Traithen, you can see on the pisten map, the mountain just behind, south of Sudelfeld.

 

If anyone is interested in this area, It's a great area but needs experience and local knowledge (which I don't have) when going off piste . Last year there was 6 avalanche incidents in Bavarian Alps in February.

[Jynxx 4]

SJF can you please help me with this image, I think it's informative.