The bustling Japanese ski villages that somehow go to sleep at night

[muikabochi 208]

Hi folks

Writing this from Zao in Yamagata.

We were treated to an absolutely fantastic day today, but more on that later when I return to Niigata.

 

I really do like this place.

The skijo, for me, is excellent.

The scenery, well thats definitely excellent too - unique and breathtaking.

The onsen as well. They might be smelly but they are pretty good too!

I think I can call it my favourite Japanese ski resort.

 

There's just one rather strange thing going on though. I'm not new to this phenom but it just seems so stark here.

 

While the skijo was mad busy yesterday and actually even quite busy today as well - certainly compared to weekdays in my part of Niigata - when it goes dark the place transforms into this ghostly quiet, 'nothing is open' place.

 

We walked around looking for somewhere to eat this evening and seriously could not find more than a handful of places that were open. And they weren't too hot either. Curry rice I had in this shokudo-type place. The perhaps appealing looking "beer restaurant" in the centre near Family Mart closed.... at 6pm!! There is close to nothing open.

 

Of course, most people are back in their hotels having their shabu-shabu or sukiyaki and then either going for an onsen or back to their rooms.

 

For a resort that is as famous as Zao, overseas too, it just seems really ridiculous.

 

I can see why Shiga Kogen is quiet, national park and restrictions and all, but can't quite understand this Zao case.

 

Are the hotels to blame for doing all they can to keep people in?

 

And how on earth can this strange situation change? As things are, if you venture out you just come back after finding nothing and giving up!

 

Back to some beer!

[Thundercat 60]

LOL, I noticed exactly the same thing there. My guess is that hotels are to blame because they not only provide meals but also generally have free onsens. I found one 'bar' offering pizza and beer that was open a bit later but it was dead quiet. Can't remember the name though... sorry (it was a bit up a hill near an onsen that started 'go...something'.

[grungy-gonads 54]

It sounds sad that a place that offers so much lacks in that respect.

At least it sounds as though it delivers in the areas you really want, muikabochi.

I wonder what the Zao people think of this?

[Tubby Beaver 209]

They probably don't care.....that's why there is nothing open. If people really cared, and there was a market for it then more places would sprout up. It's typical a Japanese style ski-jo in action

[grungy-gonads 54]

Actually I would guess there are a fair few that do care but might feel helpless against the hotels who do this all in deal and lock the guests in after 6pm.

 

Surely Zao is a place that lots of places are staying at least a few nights at. It's not the day-trip place like Yuzawa. Surely lots of people would love to have the choice of going out to eat rather than staying in eating at the hotel every night...

[Tubby Beaver 209]

Japanese are a funny breed when it comes to ski-jo's. I know Zao is more than just a ski resort, year round village that people come to visit but they are so set in their ways its very hard to change. You are probably right, but since no one would ever comment about it, the powers that be won't need to change. The foreign visitors would probably make comments but these wouldn't be given much thought over

[ILoveZao 8]

People are well aware of this and many Japanese guests also comment on this point.

 

The hotels and tours are mostly 一泊２食 meaning that evening meal is included. If you look most places will not even mention leaving out evening meal. Even pension style. If you ask though some they will do that for a lower price. But most people come with that included.

[iiyamadude 6]

I'd really like to know if most Japanese really do want the evening meal in the hotel every day. Someone I know just got back from Shiga Kogen, staying in the same hotel for 6 nights. They were eating quite similar basically every day with little real variation. That would really bore me.

[Thundercat 60]

Interesting. When I was in Zao we decided not to have our meal included. It saved us 4000Â¥ per night... the meals looked good but 4000Â¥ good?

[big-will 7]

Places like Yuzawa have a fair few restaurants and bars to choose from. Are the people using them perhaps mostly day-trippers I wonder.

[dale#1 1]

Was thinking.... the same, muikabochi.

Damn I wish I was there on Monday sounds like you had incedible weather that day.

[2pints-mate 0]

It sure is quiet but we found one or two places.

Not sure I would like it as much if it became a loud place.

[brit-gob 9]

I don't go to hotels often but always ask for the evening meal off. They usually take 3000 yen or so off and you think..... 3000 yen?! Seems steep for what you get. And I almost always prefer what I can find elsewhere.

[panhead_pete 27]

I wish all the bars had been shut here last night......