Surfers

[Mantas 3]

Indosnm- You would be no stranger to raw power waves if you grew up down there. i've only ever surfed Cactus but my eldest brother has spent loads of time down there. He chose S.A. over the south pacific this year for his annual surf jaunt.

 

Le Spud- Seems like the biggest problem you have with surfing is the surfers themselves. Can't really say it bothers me too much. Probably because I resigned myself to the fact long ago that top quality waves with no crowds are as rare as rocking horse shit. I'd rather surf a 6/10 surf uncrowded than a 10/10 surf with every surfer on it.

 

Surfing has certainly drifted well away from it's soul surfing roots of the 70's and 80's that I grew up in, thats for sure. Can't see it changing for the better in the future either.

I guess I'm lucky to live in a sparesly populated part of the world. Even in my little part of the world the surf gets crowded at times. But with little cunning and good fortune the 'epic' still happens occassionaly.

 

"What's the use of getting older if you don't get cunning with it" my brother often says.

 

I didn't really want this thread to be a surfing vs snowboarding debate, it's kind of like argueing which sex position is best.

One thing not really toched on yet is the interaction with nature in the ocean. I remember surfing at Narloo WA one day and seeing whales, dolphins, sharks, turtles, rays and colourful reef fish all in a 2 hour surf.

A few weeks ago I was surfing my local. It was a solid swell and I was the only one out. Some dolphins were having a play further out. A big set came and a few dolphins started riding it. I took off and sure enough they appeared. Not out on the shoulder as I've seen them do before, but right under my board! they cruised 2 feet under me the whole way. Amazing. You don't get that in the mountains.

 

What's the deal with the Japenese coast? Sounds pretty grim. How is it that they are so switched-on with some things ie. recycling and vehicle emissions but so not switched-on with there beach evioronment?

[indosnm 0]

Ahh, surfing with Flipper. Awesome , missed experience.

 

 Quote:

Originally posted by Mantas:

 

What's the deal with the Japenese coast? Sounds pretty grim. How is it that they are so switched-on with some things ie. recycling and vehicle emissions but so not switched-on with there beach evioronment?

What are ya talking about? We have tetrapods!

[damian 0]

I am a little bitter that I never travelled the world surfing, never really travelled Australia surfing. I'm starting my second life pretty soon, one of freedom. It still weighs on my mind that I could happily lose myself travelling and surfing, I got a lot to catch up on. But it is alpine back country exploration and riding that has won over. Make no mistake, snowboarding per se (in a resort)... not a chance in the world that beats catching waves in the ocean.

 

The highs in the ocean like Mantas described above are unbeatable moments.

 

Me having a problem with surfers: lets not go down this path, but if you recall my posts in the Steve Irwin thread you might understand that I don't naturally fit in with the Aussie surf culture personalities. Although there are some classic Aussie surfers that also think like mature individuals... they are really good people to know. Lets not get into this. I just like riding waves.

 

Mantas - do you know a builder, about 45, called Lewis, in your town? Maybe spelt Louis? He surfs.

[spook 0]

Mantas - There’s plenty of marine life in SA too huh? The kind with big teeth…

Yep, getting to see animals close up in the surf is pretty special. Everytime I hear someone prattle on about a dolphin or whale watching cruise I realise how lucky surfers are to be able to see this stuff as a matter of course. A highlight for me was actually having to bottom turn around a turtle once. He was pretty mellow and just floating around the lineup. It’s really cool when a pod of dolphins rocks up everyone just chills out and gets this communal stoke going on.

I think the thing that hooks me the most is the immersion. Actually floating around in the water, duckdiving under waves etc, its something that is unique to surfing. As is the fact that we get to move on something that is moving. I can’t really think of any other activity that could replicate it.

Truly, we are gods amongst men!

[Mantas 3]

Spud- I wasn't having a shot at you. I agree with most of what you said. Surfing as an "industry" sucks and what you said about if it all blew up tomorrow , surfing will continue on is very true.

 

Yer surfing with flipper was pretty special. To them we must be the clumsiest, most unorthodox thing in the ocean yet they must think " Hey let's go and hang with this thing for a bit "

 

Another experience i had was in southern Chile. I was surfing a point break that broke for the best part of a kilometer 4-5 foot. I was all alone. Every now and then a giant seal would cruise underneath me and check me out, man was that freaky, these things are 3 meters long! Then it would circle me with it's head sticking out, always looking at me.

Anyone ever had that happen?

[Mantas 3]

 Quote:

What are ya talking about? We have tetrapods!

What the hell is that ??

Sorry spud, Don't know a guy called Lewis.

[damian 0]

No probs - I wasn't sure he came from your town.

 

Tetrapods - Don't ask. Stop now. You really do not want to know.

 

Got anymore local beach break pics?

[Mantas 3]

Now you got me really interested, Tetropods, right I'm going to google it now.

 

Been surfing 35 years spud. Only been taking photos for the last 6 months!

 

I'm learning how to youtube. So when i get that mastered I'll post a vid !

[Thunderpants 0]

 

The Engineer approach....

damn them

[Mantas 3]

Sure

 

Me and flipper.

Work/surf truck

[Mantas 3]

Well here it is.

 

Some dodgey surfing taken with a dodgey camera and some dodgey editing and quality too.

 

A bag of lollies for anyone who can guess where.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FG-Jq7ftVCE

[damian 0]

I cant watch it, all I want to do is surf a wave like that so bad. I went to the south pacific last year and surfed one of the crappiest shorts waves imaginable (it had good grunt and was in a stunning place, but it seriously was not worth the journey time and cost). It was my first surf in, dunno, 2 years. First decent warm water surf in 4 years. First trip to a coral reef break. It was all that mattered, it consumed me then it was over and I was back in London at a desk - the only way to cope is wipe the memory or else it calls you every day. It was such a let down. I think I am still bitter at what should have been had I done my research and not let other clueless people plan the trip. Oh well, I have one surf trip a year and will get it right next time. . No more going without for me. Life is too short not to surf amazing waves like in that clip.

 

My dad is buying a small place in fiji, right near a good reef, he goes there constantly. I could ditch it all and join him.

[Mantas 3]

 Quote:

My dad is buying a small place in fiji, right near a good reef, he goes there constantly. I could ditch it all and join him.

Is he looking to adopt another kid? Seriously spud get your arse down there!

[damian 0]

Its too hard, I just have to live in denial.

 

I surfed King Kong at Nagigia Island last year for a week (stunning spot, incredibly short wave). Also got one surf in at Namotou lefts when the paying customers changed over. I'd do it different next time round.

 

My old man and his family flew there yesterday. He was bitterly disappointed that I didn't go to met them, he's been nagging me for months. But my spare time and money is bagged by the mountains. Plus I went to Portugal in June.

 

Last year I was so stoked on getting Fiji good that I worked out the exact week when the tides were spot on from 5am to 10am in the middle of the best season for waves.... and then some huge doors opened for me in the mountains and I lost the focus.

 

Any future surf trips are also going to be in places where I can teach my girlfriend how to understand and catch waves. It was almost impossible to get her out of the water. She completely loved it.

[snosurf 0]

Ah, the burning question: snow or surf.

 

Spud, I enjoyed reading what you had to say on the matter, even though it took me a few hours!

 

Well it seems, thus far there is only a handful of boarder/surfers. As you've probably guessed by my nickname ('snosurf'), I am both a surfer and a snowboarder.

 

But the nickname works on 2 levels - the second is a little more cryptic. Think.... 'there's no surf' -> 's no surf -> snosurf

 

Anyway, moving on to my 2 cents on the matter. I am still young but have many years experience surfing. I've done a season in the snow and a handful of trips of anywhere between 1 and 4 weeks duration.

 

So which is better? I think that question has been answered: It depends on the conditions. I think you explained it pretty well in that mammoth post on page 1 stud. I agree with what you said there.

 

And mantas you were spot on there saying it's like arguing which sex position is best.

 

In fact, for want of a better analogy, riding boards is a lot like riding chicks. Some boards are better than other boards, but when you're up and riding, it really doesn't matter what kind of board you're on, so long as you're having fun and enjoying yourself!

 

I am also a skimboarder, skateboarder (parks) and freeborder. But these sports all rank well below both surfing and snowboarding.

 

Sorry that ended up a bit long. I am such a hypocrite!

[damian 0]

Damn you make long posts!

 

Thanks for calling me stud.

 

IMHO, riding waves and mountains is different to sex, 'cause the thing you are on top of never lies. It is 100% pure reality. The outcome depends on you. That is why I like being in the empty mountains mountains or empty ocean: there is no hype, marketing, popular culture, political spin or lies. Pure clarity.

 

 

[indosnm 0]

weekend waves, 30-40knot westerly blowing, but for once abit of ooomph in it!

 

[damian 0]

I grabbed a random few songs worth of waves and stuff from a long dvd made out of last years Fiji trip. At the time it was first surf in three years and pumped on fistfuls of pain killers cause of my shoulders, so pretty bad surfing on my behalf. It frustrated me a bit, but most of the time I was really happy (especially when I got it too myself)

 

hang on.... youtube upload is wonky.

 

try this

[TJ OZ 0]

I am a surfer who turned into a boarder and now chasing the white room in Hakuba. I will be down the westcoast of Vic the next two weekends chasing my last waves for probably six months. A mate of mine is buying a place in Nias so I might have to head over there in April. Five foot offshore Winki is my fav although it can get crowded nowadays (I remember, back in my day). Fresh tracks everyday in Hakuba is what I am chasing now.

[indosnm 0]

TJ, I hope ya mate does better than most of the whiteys that I know in Indo.

typical pattern.

Indo gets white man to buy place.

Whitey builds,

Business comes,

and Indo says thanks for paying for the building... now piss off!

It'll keep happening till the laws change.

[TJ OZ 0]

He is aware of the pitfalls but believes he has it covered. He has good friends over there from the money end of town so he feels comfortable about the deal.

[damian 0]

I know negative 100% about Nias and Indo in general. I'm just dribbling here. But in poor towns, the money end of town is often the end that is least trustworthy. How do you think they got their money when everyone around them has none?

[indosnm 0]

For not knowing much, you know enough!

[TJ OZ 0]

Not the case with this family. Well not in the last few generations anyway. Although I probably don't know enough about them either. Anyway enough about indo and its drawbacks. I want to hear more about peoples surfing and snow life's. I hate the fear of paddling up a monster wave preying that you are going to make it over and then when you do, hoping that it doesn't pull you through the back of it. I don't go out in the big stuff anymore as my surf fitness just doesn't cut it.

[damian 0]

Indo - No mate, I just generalise things I have seen elsewhere onto things I know nothing about. I'm just dribbling, like I said.

 

TJ - I love the cold pelting you get paddling out as you just make it over the lip of a deep dark green monster with the offshore spray whipping back off the lip. I love that. Taking that last stroke over the lip and your hand hits air, not water. As you say, your an inch from getting sucked back over with it as the monster folds.

 

I do like bigger waves (2-3 times overhead is big enough for me) but like you say, you have to be fit in the arms, and I'm not. I used to surf things as an unbreakable teenager that I wouldn't touch now.