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NPM (abbrev??)

You must have gotten good waves the am?

from another forum

" At 5am Inamura was just a full arsed peak.TWaz no way I was going out just to take off on that peak with some stinkin wrongboarders-Tama is a no wrongies allowed break by the way."

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NPM is an abbreviation, yes.

 

Which forum is that from Indo? I did get some waves this morning up at Chigasaki but it was not excellent. Sizable yes but inconsistent. Kugenuma and Tsujido were bigger but being mostly close-outs and being a fair bike ride from my place, I didnt choose to head down there. Hopefully the swell will hold up over the next few days. A sicky might be in order!

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I notice you said BIG rather than good waves!

Heard the swell was a bit wonky up there yesterday am...

I envy you guys in Shonan but only during typhoons as all our spots pretty much close out. But the rest of the year when its flat up there we can surf at least!

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Very true Indo. Shonan is flat 90 percent of the time. No wonder there are so many WRONGboarders!

 

Surfed again this morning before work. It has dropped off alot but there was still some fun overhead ones. It was very still so was rather glassy too.

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Gaths?

Farkin hate those things. Mine was worn once in the surf as a test run before Indo around 10 years ago. I hated the feeling when underwater. So I threw it back on the beach.

Make great helmets for motorbike in Bali, though won't protect much if you stack!

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I was being cheeky about the gath, aluding to BPC's lack of surf fitness and harsh Fuji reefs. I used to hate the feeling of them as well, couldn't hear properly and water getting trapped in it and running down you face. Good if you get slammed on the reef tho, just ask Jack McCoy!

 

Have yourself a ball mate, and don't forget some piccies of you getting barelled off your nana!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone seen sprout yet?

I saw Step into liquid and Riding Giants this weekend. There are some same stories in these two movies. But the message is different.

Now I want to see sprout. I'm expecting something different.

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No, Slow. I still havent been to see it. My mate said that "Riding Giants" was once again "very America-centred" and a "biased" story. I still would like to see it on the big screen at the Hills cinema!

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Slow, if ya wanna see a good surf flick, get your hands on the Sixth Element. A story on Ross Clark-Jones (RCJ). The man is an animal in every aspect of life, a true legend and big wave charger that knows how to have a good time! He is a good mate of my best mate in Bali and is responsible for pushing me into the biggest waves that I have ridden to this day.

 

Also check out Bali Hai for a trip back into the late 70's. My fav vid.

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Just ask anyone in the cinema where's the bar and they'll tell you. If they're confused, ask for Curtain Call, they all know it. I think the people who buy the more expensive tickets get a free drink ticket included in the price. This might be for the screenings in the smaller premier cinema, not sure. I have no idea about their system but anyone can go in that bar.

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 Quote:
Originally posted by NPM:
Can you drink beer inside the Hills cinema?
Sure, you can buy beer and popcorn right next to the ticket counter. I had cheap vino bianco!
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Dims:
.... aluding to BPC's lack of surf fitness and harsh Fiji reefs
Hey Dims,

I didn't hit my scone but I met the reef a few times. No injuries other than the existing shoulders strains.

Besides a meaningless warm up session in really small waves a few days earlier, THIS is the first 10 minutes of my first surf in 2 years. I got pasted. Dont expect to be thrilled, this footage is rather lame surfing. This wave just stands up out of nowhere and unloads about 99.99% of its energy in a fraction of a second.

I know everyone says this, but that wave is way heavier than it looks, way low tide and packing more raw energy than I have ever felt. Directly out of super deep Pacific Ocean onto a 5 foot deep coral ledge. Getting caught inside was brutal and violent.

I have to be honest and say that for the most I kooked it big time and was getting really frustrated with myself. I could surf better 12 years ago!! Then I realised that all considered I was actually doing ok (so long as I took enough pain killers). When bigger, it wasn’t a play wave at all and I was totally out of form. When small it was fun and I just took my time, didnt try to carve it up.... just enjoyed feeling the flow of surfing again after such a long time away from life in the ocean.

I got a few ok sessions in, but nearly always small and no wall. The swell was the totally wrong direction so it was just one big shut down section and a cut back shoulder.

In all, the surf conditions that I got was a big let down, but I still had a great time, particularly in the last few days. Almost no surf pics but tons of video clips of really short reef rides.

The clip takes a while to load (3mb) and you need Quicktime.
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Hey DB, Good to see that you came out of it alive! Is that you on both waves in the movie or? You got "pasted" on that second wave ... The wave looks rather short and nasty though. Big, heaving tube going nearly below water level. I dont know if you would get me out there ... Good to hear that you are back though. I will see you in London soon! Late Oct.

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Hey NPM, yes, it is me kooking on both waves. The second wave took me by surprise and gave me quite a hold down. The wind had lulled off a little and a nice little peak started to suck up with an ok wall on it. I turned, stroked a few times, got it easily.....and then in a millisecond it turned into a nasty crunch. The camera angle does not show how clear the water is, but it is super clear and about 5 foot deep where it was breaking. But due to the amazingly clear water it looked like I was falling into 3 feet of water onto coral. You can literally see the heads of coral on the bottom as you fall. Taking off was hard to get used to as the reef bottom was so visible. It was a little distracting, somewhat of an optical illusion. All up, the surf was not worth the distance and effort, but that is the luck of weather. The angle of the swell was completely off in the second week and I didn't even surf in the first week due to howling onshore trade winds.

 

It was a stunning setting with an amazing lagoon and incredible fishing and marine life. I saw a shark everyday, reef sharks were everywhere. Quite a few sea snakes as well. Both are harmless and actually quite friendly.

 

Drop me a mail with your Ldn dates.... I may be out of town.

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ah mate, glad to hear you had a good trip, even if you didn't totally score. That's a pretty heavy looking wave, just eating itself up and griding along the reef - that late takeoff on your second wave is pretty ballsy!

if you're free this weekend or next week, lets catch up for a beer.

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Mate, we had a ball. Nagigia Island is probably the most stunning tropical setting I have ever seen. The physical environment is just amazing.

 

Beer sounds nice. This weekend is best as I am off to see Iron Maiden the next weeknd at Reading.

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Classic wipeout spud! Do you recommend that place? I have been thinking about going there for a while.

My wife had the same problem with the reef looking much closer than it really is in such clear water!

Catch any fish while ya were there?

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