Metabo Oyaji 71 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 More than the number of sockets, think about placement. Bit of a moment to go plug something in, only to discover that the nearest socket is at the opposite end of the wall. For TV and related stuff, that is all plugged into a power bar with a switch on it, to kill all the electricity vampires when not in use. So only actually needed one socket for the TV. Might have been clever to have a switch on the wall to kill all the TV-area sockets instead, but I'm not clever. Your builder will have certainly pointed this out, but you will probably need a 200 V socket for the aircon in that big LDK of yours. Link to post Share on other sites
JA2340 16 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Placement is important IF you only have just enough power points (sockets) for the current setup. Experience has shown that the number of power points required increases rather than decreases (and almost NEVER stays the same as when the house is built) over time, so having more is better. Yeah, certainly decide placement on your current uses. THEN, add a complete duplication of the outlets - place them between original ones, or beside them if you think that's best. But AT LEAST consider doubling the "current use" number. Link to post Share on other sites
Alexander L 80 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 1 x Bank 4 (depends which builder some it's cheaper for 4 or 2 x 2) in each Appliance cupboard then 2 out on the bench in the kitchen 1 for the fridge and 1 for d/washer. 6 x Doubles in the Family/Dining. Office is where you need more I have 6 but should have got 10 ( And I should know better I design houses for a living) JA has got it sussed though Maybe you should take up hairdressing. Link to post Share on other sites
seemore 66 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Hairdressers don't make $300K /Annun Link to post Share on other sites
Metabo Oyaji 71 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Placement is important IF you only have just enough power points (sockets) for the current setup. Experience has shown that the number of power points required increases rather than decreases (and almost NEVER stays the same as when the house is built) over time, so having more is better. Yeah, certainly decide placement on your current uses. THEN, add a complete duplication of the outlets - place them between original ones, or beside them if you think that's best. But AT LEAST consider doubling the "current use" number. I agree. I was thinking more that rather than put lots of sockets in a single location, distribute them around the room. Subject to cost constraints, of course. Which is always the bear waiting to bite. Link to post Share on other sites
Tubby Beaver 209 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Why are there no switches on sockets over here? Link to post Share on other sites
JA2340 16 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 only a pissy 110v, no need for switching! Link to post Share on other sites
Alexander L 80 Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 W=VA. for a given wattage 110 will need twice the current as 220. 220 will fry you less. Link to post Share on other sites
1 4 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 What "Ampage" are people on here? My aparto says 40. Link to post Share on other sites
Saitaman 1 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Didn't know until I just looked, 40A. What does that mean, I wonder? Link to post Share on other sites
surfarthur 22 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 W=VA. for a given wattage 110 will need twice the current as 220. 220 will fry you less. Not true, assuming that your body has the same resistance to electricity regardless of voltage, if you get an electric shock at 220V, then the current passing through your body will be twice what it is at 110V. I have heard it said that 60Hz is more dangerous than 50Hz, although I can't remember whether that is true or not. The biggest difference in reality is the different earthing standards in different parts of the world. Link to post Share on other sites
surfarthur 22 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Didn't know until I just looked, 40A. What does that mean, I wonder? This would be the rated current of your house / apartment / mobile home. Basically, the higher that number, the more stuff you can have plugged in and running at one time. Link to post Share on other sites
cal 6 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 ....and the basic monthly charge is more expensive as that goes up. Not by a huge amount, I think 60A is about 500 yen month more than 40A. Link to post Share on other sites
cal 6 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 I think that apart from that difference, there are no other differences in charges. Link to post Share on other sites
Alexander L 80 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 W=VA. for a given wattage 110 will need twice the current as 220. 220 will fry you less. Not true, assuming that your body has the same resistance to electricity regardless of voltage, if you get an electric shock at 220V, then the current passing through your body will be twice what it is at 110V. I have heard it said that 60Hz is more dangerous than 50Hz, although I can't remember whether that is true or not. The biggest difference in reality is the different earthing standards in different parts of the world. Bollocks. Go look it up. Link to post Share on other sites
Alexander L 80 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 How many amps will be needed on a 110 circuit for a 1 Kilowatt heater. How many for the same on a 220 circuit. What heats the elements. Is it voltage or current? Link to post Share on other sites
JA2340 16 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 P = V * A is ONLY applicable to Direct Current - Alternating current is a whole other fish. From a conversion website ... AC single phase volts to watts calculation formula The real power P in watts is equal to the power factor PF times the current I in amps, times the RMS voltage V in volts:P(W) = PF × I(A)× V(V)So watts are equal to power factor times amps times volts:watt = PF ×amp × voltorW = PF ×A × V Example What is power consumption in watts when the power factor is 0.8 and the current is 3A and the voltage supply is 110V?Answer: the power P is equal to power factor of 0.8 times current of 3 amps times voltage of 110 volts.P = 0.8 × 3A × 110V = 264W So ... the major question is, what is the power factor in a 240 V system and in a 110 V system? Frankly, I have no idea, but I do know that there's a major difference between DC and AC circuits, and could probably look it up, but why should I do all your work for you? Mr Google will help, I'm sure ... Link to post Share on other sites
Alexander L 80 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 oh come on. That's not good enough for a "teacher". AC works in the same way. Just alternate it 50 times a second (50Hz) Link to post Share on other sites
sanjo 2 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 I admit to having almost no idea what Watts Amps and Volts ....are. Link to post Share on other sites
pie-eater 207 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 I can fill you in there, Sanjo. They are all something to do with electricity. Which you can't see, which is just nuts. Link to post Share on other sites
JA2340 16 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 oh come on. That's not good enough for a "teacher". AC works in the same way. Just alternate it 50 times a second (50Hz) Hey ... I was (emphasis on the tense of past!!) WAS a teacher of Wood, Metal shop (in Australian, woodwork and metalwork, but also electronics, leatherwork, art metalwork and photography) and computing studies, so AC electrical computations are a bit outside my area of expertise. However, Mr Google is a boon to those of us with a need for information .. I seriously recommend you get acquainted with his facilities ... Link to post Share on other sites
JA2340 16 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 I can fill you in there, Sanjo. They are all something to do with electrickery. Which you can't see, which is just nuts. Fixed for you, pies. Link to post Share on other sites
surfarthur 22 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 How many amps will be needed on a 110 circuit for a 1 Kilowatt heater. How many for the same on a 220 circuit. What heats the elements. Is it voltage or current? at 110V, using P = V x I, or I = P / V, a 1kW element will draw 1000 / 110 = 9.09A. As an element can be considered purely resistive, we can do away with power factor for now. Using Ohms law, I = V / R, we can now work out the resistance of the element. R = V / I, therefore R = 110 / 9.09 = 12.1 Ohms. at 220V, using P = V x I, or I = P / V, a 1kW element will draw 1000 / 220 = 4.55A. Using Ohms law, I = V / R, we can now work out the resistance of the element. R = V / I, therefore R = 220 / 4.55 = 48.35 Ohms. If we used the 1kW element that is designed for 110V, with a resistance of 12.1 Ohms, on a 220V system, we would be drawing 18.3A instead of 9.09A, and we would probably have a fire before too long. Following so far? Assuming that the shock at 220V and the shock at 110V follow the same path, then we can assume that the resistance of the human body remains the same. A quick google search suggests that a figure of somewhere between 300 and 1000 Ohms would be about right for a human body. Lets use 500 Ohms. Back to Ohms law, R = V / I, so I = V / R. therefore at 110V, I = 110 / 500 = 0.22A. At 220V, I = 220 / 500 = 0.44A. Therefore, the higher the voltage, the higher the current that will flow through your body assuming that the entry and exit points are the same in both cases. This is basic high school science. Link to post Share on other sites
Metabo Oyaji 71 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 How many amps will be needed on a 110 circuit for a 1 Kilowatt heater. How many for the same on a 220 circuit. What heats the elements. Is it voltage or current? Goats. Oh wait, wrong thread. Link to post Share on other sites
Alexander L 80 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 oh come on. That's not good enough for a "teacher". AC works in the same way. Just alternate it 50 times a second (50Hz) Hey ... I was (emphasis on the tense of past!!) WAS a teacher of Wood, Metal shop (in Australian, woodwork and metalwork, but also electronics, leatherwork, art metalwork and photography) and computing studies, so AC electrical computations are a bit outside my area of expertise. However, Mr Google is a boon to those of us with a need for information .. I seriously recommend you get acquainted with his facilities ... If you stuck a 220V, 3 Amp current buzzing at 50Hz wire up your arse and 5 minutes later one of your ex-students found you, would he go catch a movie or go down the pub? Link to post Share on other sites
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