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I'm looking to update my board situation. While I will still keep my powder board, I want something a little more all-around. I can ride down the mountain, but still working on my form. After reading through Ippy's guide to snowboarding 2.0 (great read), I have come to the descision of what to get.

 

Never Summer Legacy (159cm)

Rome Targa bindings (L/XL)

 

I'm 6'1" and 195-ish. The board I have now is 162/164 (I believe...forget every time, lol). It feels too big when I ride it, so I want to go w/the 159 on the new board.

 

Am I jumping in too deep, or is this a good setup to move on to? Any input is appreciated, thanks!

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I know I'll probably get mocked, but I bought a Burton Custom ICS board and Cartel EST bindings... I love them. Not as quick to clip up as the K2 cinches I have used previously, but the feedback from board and the control are awesome. As a board combo, it' been as happy in Japan on groomers/powder as it has on Australian "snow" and ice and feels solid all over. I'm not really a jibber/rail grinder, but I have done a box rail and it felt good on that as well.

 

I'm only 173cm (about 5'9) and 80kgs, but I ride a 154cm. I have ridden 156's but they felt too long/hard to control, while a 152 was jittery. For your height and size, I reckon 159 would suit, but you'd still have your pow board for the heavy stuff.

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nothing wrong with the setup at all. (: Id add more, but not entirely sure what youd be worried about? (: Size is fine. You tried 162, arent wholly comfy on it, so no harm in popping down a few cms.

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I'm a little shorter but the same weight and I started on a 157....it was fine, but I've sized up to a 163 which feels a lot better for me. Horses for courses though and whatever makes you most comfortable is what is suited to you.

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I have a NS but its the SL, can't give you any feedback on it yet as have riding my Fish in the powder the last two days. 1st no new snow toady and I should be able to give you some feedback on it. My last one was a Premium V Max and it was sensational. I bought the new one in Aus off Cheeri Pow I think it was and it was less than I could have got it from the US.

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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm pretty much settled on getting it, but threw it out there to make sure I was getting the right/great equipment. I think I may pull the trigger soon...can't wait.

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I think Neversummer are a good choice for heavier dudes. The waist width on NS is too wide for my liking.

I find that as long as the waist width remains narrow, and the flex gets softer as it gets longer, I have no problems riding a 170 with my 5´9 60kg frame.

My current board is 159 and stiff. I don´t mind going longer.

To clarify, I don´t like too much side cut and big shovel (nose) on my boards either.

As for the Rome bindings, I am very happy with my Aluminium base Rome (older model) .

I look for older models to save $ in general. The tried and tested ones.

Good luck ;)

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I did not like my neversummer SL 164 in japan conditions, it needed the stance to be set back which plays havoc with the camber/rocker positions and makes it feel weird. I preferred the sierra reverse crew 159 believe it or not.

This year I am going back to camber+setback+taper with a stepchild og powder164 and I also just cut a swallowtail in my burton supermodel 172 so that should be interesting to try out!

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It is done. The items are (hopefully) on the way. Will they get here on time...? I have no idea...perks of an APO (military) address is that you can get your stuff in 5 days or as far as 3 months. (yeah, I just waited 2 months for some pants I ordered).

 

Anywho should be fine :) I'll post up pics & a review of it when I finally ride it!

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... it needed the stance to be set back which plays havoc with the camber/rocker positions and makes it feel weird.

That´s an interesting point. Something to keep in mind and experiment..

I wonder this is more so, when one´s stance is narrower ?

 

This year I am going back to camber+setback+taper with a stepchild og powder164 and I also just cut a swallowtail in my burton supermodel 172 so that should be interesting to try out!

 

Coool :friend:

Let us know .... ;)

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It is done. The items are (hopefully) on the way. Will they get here on time...? I have no idea...perks of an APO (military) address is that you can get your stuff in 5 days or as far as 3 months. (yeah, I just waited 2 months for some pants I ordered).

 

Anywho should be fine :) I'll post up pics & a review of it when I finally ride it!

 

Congrats.

Look forward to hearing about it :friend:

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... it needed the stance to be set back which plays havoc with the camber/rocker positions and makes it feel weird.

That´s an interesting point. Something to keep in mind and experiment..

I wonder this is more so, when one´s stance is narrower ?

 

Its more to do with setback. Your stance can go in or out without changing the dynamics of the r/c tech too much just as long as you keep central.

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Actually, I am thinking - If the stance is wider, one has more leverage on the nose and tail of the board.

I have a wide stance and I have to be careful not to shift my weight to the nose when I am in powder. My nose will dig and cartwheel. I can narrow my stance and it makes a difference, less nose dig, but then it will be harder on hardpack because I snowboard with my front foot a lot.

I haven´t found a board I can go powder and hardpack by riding completly centered (or on front foot)

 

So I am thinking this with your C/R. Different way to setback.

What if ... Keep the nose side foot fixed and move the back foot towards the tail. Yes the stance goes wider, but your setback will be half the distance of the stace width change. (ie: if you move your feet 1 inch, centre line of your body has moved 1/2 inch )

The reason I suggest keeping the front feet planted is - you still have access to the R/C transition bit at the nose end.

 

I commented on this forum in the past that I reckon people have narrow stances. Sure, it´s one´s individual style, and a lot to do with how flexible you are.

I ride 22 inch stance on my Atomic( because that is as wide as I can go on this board) , 23 inch on the Salomon, and will go 24 inch when I ride a 170.

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dunno what my stance distance is but the fact I didn't have my bindings set back as far as they can go definitely hampered me in the deep stuff on Tuesday.....my nose always was wanting to take a dive and I got uber thigh burn trying to counteract it. I should've moved them but for some reason I left them as is

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How did you end up with all your boards Pete ? What´s up with the Blue Lady and why the SL ?

 

BM , what do you ride when you are not on the Fish ?

 

Hey mate, HAPPY NEW YEAR to you guys. Blue Lady is sold after a brief affair which may prove to be a mistake, sold my custom X this week which saved me from undoubted slams in the park, so now just the SL and the Fish. Went with the NS as had one as a 1st board and wanted an all mountain non pow board and it seemed to fit the bill. Not sure if it will stay or go the way of all the other girls in my life, loved and lost. The fish on the other hand is a keeper. Mmmmmmm fishy smells.

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I haven´t found a board I can go powder and hardpack by riding completly centered (or on front foot)

Get yourself a swallow tail. You keep the effective edge of a normal board with a centred stance but the difference in surface area between the front and rear of the board due to the cut out will provide float in pow.

 

So I am thinking this with your C/R. Different way to setback.

What if ... Keep the nose side foot fixed and move the back foot towards the tail. Yes the stance goes wider, but your setback will be half the distance of the stace width change. (ie: if you move your feet 1 inch, centre line of your body has moved 1/2 inch )

The reason I suggest keeping the front feet planted is - you still have access to the R/C transition bit at the nose end.

You can try it but in my opinion (with 2 seasons on a sl) it just feels weird.

 

I commented on this forum in the past that I reckon people have narrow stances. Sure, it´s one´s individual style, and a lot to do with how flexible you are.

I ride 22 inch stance on my Atomic( because that is as wide as I can go on this board) , 23 inch on the Salomon, and will go 24 inch when I ride a 170.

You may be right, some people put comfort before control and vice versa. The beauty of snowboarding is anyone can do it and do it there own way, some throw themselves off cliffs and some just cruise around searching for the deepest powder they can find and at the end of the day everyone is satisfied. For what its worth I am 6'3" and ride a 22" stance.
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:friend: Snowboarding is soulful stuff .

 

Actually I do ride an Atomic V-tail ( Atomic guys call it CT for camel toe). In essence it is a swallowtail.

Has long effective edge, Camber and the nose and tail is low rise. Does the tail sink ? - Yes.

Also works well on hard pack and ice.

Mine is a 159 about 25,2 cm waist width and 30cm nose/tail width

If I were to re-design this board, I would add another 15-20 cm of nose with a little more rise. Maybe a little taper. That (spec) would end up like Apo swallowtail.

So I predict that I need something near 180 to be able to ride on powder without digging my nose when I press on my front feet.

I would love to get a Pogo swallow tail but can´t afford 1000 Euro. That has the spec I really want..

long, narrow, 12m radius ...

If I were a heavy guy, it won´t matter if the shovel is big. Winter stick, Prior... your momentum will blast thru the crud and can push the big nose. In my case, I find wider nose picks up too much what´s in the way.

 

btw, I dig what you did with your Burton supermodel 172

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Did you use a template ? Freehand ?

Hacksaw to get thru the edges and jig saw ?

How did you come up with the shape ? Very impressed.

I wrote last year the best way (cheapest) to get a powder board is to chop an old mid-wide board (156-160) into a swallowtail. Save money instead of buying a Fish or Hovercraft.

This is even better. 172. Bit too wide for my liking but it´ll work for you :)

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The first thing I did was set the length cut and then found the centre, I then used a random round object to draw a circle in the middle. From there I drew out a few different designs and settled on that one, it just looked right.

Once I had marked it out with a text on one side I made a template and flipped it onto the other side of the board to ensure symmetry. The shape maintains the full edge and still has enough material left to give it strength whilst giving a considerably large area for removal which should equate into extreme float with a centred stance. In this case the setback is 2" but I am centred in regards to the side cut which is what I wanted to achieve with this chop job.

I own a workshop so I have many tools on hand. For the steel edge cut I used an angle grinder then followed through with a jig saw.

The worst part was waiting for the urethane to set. I used a 48 hour type which gives maximum flexibility but try not touching your new project for 2 days lol, it was difficult.

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