Jump to content

1man for car shakken How I did it


Recommended Posts

Just finished my shakken and the actual test only cost me around 1man. I can say that I am driving close to a 20 year old car with 130k on the odometer so its no spring chicken.

 

I found out that even though it is a bit of a time/paperwork hassle to do, there are local test centers where you can do "USER SHAKKEN" cheaper then a local dealer which many choose to do.

 

These are the same centers that handle your license plates and registration. I started out with a 500 plate vehicle (which shakken would cost about 37800yen for the inspection at this test center.

 

The trick that I learned unexpectedly was by removing the rear seats since I used the space as cargo space and never have 4 people in the car at any given time, I changed the status of the car from a station wagon to a van status thus dropping down to a 400 plate vehicle. I own a suzuki Escudo which is like a jeep in size. By changing the 4people status to 2 it only cost me 8800 for the 2 year shakken inspection. This could work to benefit others also.

 

The major sting of the whole process is the paperwork and the JIBAISEKI HOKKEN (National insurance or what i call JCI Japanese Compusary Insurance) which is mandatory and costs 22000yen if the current insurance had expired during the time of the shakken

 

But as for the inspection, its fairly (80 percent) automated all that is needed is driving through the inspection lane. The machines measure the key points of the car and give a "O" or "X" for each test. So overall if the car is in good working order, tune-up and basic maintence done, its a good way to save some of those yen for more important things like lift tickets and beer. If the car fails for a particular item like mine did (headlights out of adjustment) then you can pay particular attention to that area only instead of getting lots of unnecessary work done to the car which dealer or mechanics will do. Take it back and retest and you should be good to go.

 

I would recommend going to the test center and veiwing the process to become familar with the process. They have a pedistrian lane to walk on and you can take notes on the particular tests (no video or pictures as I asked).

 

I was friendly with the inspection people so they helped me out more than if I was Japanese going though the test making sure I did the correct steps during the test. The one inspector I worked with was happy to speak in his heavily rusty English he knew probably back from H/S and it helped me out alot.

Link to post
Share on other sites

farquah, you just have to re-pay for the inspection sheet with the tax stamps which costs 1600yen. then you can go through the inspection line and the test will be identical (they do a full retest on all points) I returned after 24 hours since it was difficult finding a shop open at 430pm to adjust my headlights so had to do it the next day when dealerships were open again.

 

I had the same concern as you do that I would have had to pay the full price again, but was glad to know that it was cheap to re-inspect.

 

For all, Im glad this info has helped, im a shade tree mechanic and when I looked at the previous shakkens done on my car I was shocked on what it cost the previous owner to do shakken through a dealer, Lots of unnecessary cash paid just to do visual checks and basic maintence items I.E. 4000 yen alone to fill up the engine oil to proper level (which was probably less then a liter. 6500yen to check turn signals,brake lights, reverse signal, etc.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers very much. Mine is coming up again soon and I have been thinking about doing it myself for a while. May pop along to the testing center next week and have a look first. Definitely cheaper than the 10man I was quoted two weeks ago! I just changed my oil and did a wee service myself last weekend (mostly spark plugs, filters, water etc.) so hoping there won't be too much to do.

Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah did that same deal with mine plugs filters and all. I know that 37800yen is for a 500 plate 8800yen for a 400 plate, so if you have a K car it might even be cheaper.

 

One other thing to do which I found might help also is power washing the engine and underside. get off all the crude and oil as possible. Doing this the day of the test will keep any small oil leaks from popping up and being detected at the time of the test.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that info, didn't know could do that here I always had my car done at a local dealer, I always inspect things myself anyway, and never had anything needed to be done to it as of yet, but even so it costs around 12 man for the two year shaken, which I find a complete rip-off, but thought that was the only way here. My car is on a 300 plate, so not sure if that bumps the price up. I know a K-car is like a fraction of what it would be for mine, as I asked about it, sorry forgot how much, but basically the smaller the engine and car the cheaper it is I believe??

Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally Posted By: FRANK RYAN
I know that 37800yen is for a 500 plate 8800yen for a 400 plate, so if you have a K car it might even be cheaper.




Not sure how the numbers work exactly, but usually the smaller numbers = bigger engines = more dosh?

My previous car was on a 500 plate and that used to cost about half what my car does now which is on a 300 plate.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you mean 10,000 total or 10,000 plus other things, such as weight tax (juryozei)? Does removing the seats stop you from paying that too?

 

We self shakened a Hilux once, but it came to 80,000 total. Over half was weight tax.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not completely sure on the reason why my car got changed from a 500 plate to a 400. From my understanding it was that since the rear seats were considered permantly removed. The old shakken labeled my vehicle as a station wagon prior and then got changed to a van status due to the seat removal thus the drop in the number for the plate. This will also lighten my car tax fees next year as well as my private carrier insurance also.

 

The weight of the vehicle stayed the same 1080kg as on my old shakken and the weight taken of the vehicle at the time of the test. I have a 1.6liter engine also. A technician took some measurements of the rear of the car for the cargo space and determined that the classification needed to be changed.

 

When I went back to claim my new shakken the lady at the counter had a wad of cash in her hand and said I was to be refunded 29000yen because of the plate number change. Major surpise to me.

 

So the actual shakken test cost me 8800yen+some paperwork that cost around 1600yen for processing fees. Along with 1600yen for the new license plates.

 

The only downfall to this is now that my shakken shows only 2 people for the vehicle. I technically should not carry 3-4 people in the vehicle anymore (in the event of an accident I would probably not be covered)

 

Other than that, I paid the mandatory JIBAISEKI HOKKEN, as prior mentioned. That is the National car insurance which is not to be confused with ones private insuruance carrier. that cost me 22000yen as mine was about to expire this week. I didnt consider this part of the shakken test price as this is insurance only.

 

Other vehicles I would recommend going to the station and asking what the user shakken for your number plate would cost.

 

(MR.Wiggles not sure on your situation but I do know that a HILUX weighs much more than that of my vehicle which prob cost more on your experience. Is yours a 500 plate??? If so, 4man for the inspection was the same as I would have paid if my plates didnt change, so sounds about right)

 

For the seat removal issue might be dependant of the vehicle. I would not assume fold down seats (or hidden fold down seats like the HILUX if I believe has) would be applicable as you can use them at liking. My seats were bolt mounted to the body prior to me removing them along with the rear seatbealt, thus turning it into cargo space only.

 

As for the actual inspection, and whats necessary, I have a very good understanding and can help if anyone has any questions, but as for prices, I can only speak for my account and assume from my experience what it should be for others. That issue is better left for the individual to seek out information at the station.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found out why the difference, the price I pay not only includes shaken, but also the basic insurance, plus weight tax + age as at last shaken was less than 5 years old, so not just the size of the engine but weight and other things decides the price, also as my car came with a 5 year manufacturers warranty, in order to keep that valid I had to have it serviced at a official dealer, thus the rip-off price, having said that if anything went wrong in that time period no matter what it would be fixed free of charge.

 

But as next year my car will be more than five years old I will try the route Frank Ryan was on about, as that sounds cheaper.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Hilux was a 300 number. It was the "Surf" model with a full cab.

 

You pay weight tax when you buy a new car too, three year's worth.

 

You can pass the shaken with exhaust repair tape over holes in your exhaust, so IMO its not the strict test some people make it out to be. Its more like bureaucracy and taxes.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

Just had my shaken done, really simple this time.

Not doing it myself of course.

 

About 80000 yen for all the taxes and basic charge.

Then I needed oil change and a few adjusments to pass, which was 5000 yen.

They advised me to do a few other things that would need doing within a year anyway, another 10000 yen.

Was quite pleased with that less than I thought and good for another 2 years.

 

Hate shaken.

Link to post
Share on other sites
×
×
  • Create New...