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I was cold this morning


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Oh how I long for the surf reports in the summer that it's 4-6 at Ala Moana or the winter reports that it's 12-14 at Waimea and Sunset. Wet suit..who needs a wetsuit!

 

But in my reality, it was a bit chilly here as well. Last night was the first in months that I had to wear a long sleaved shirt to bed. snowboard/ski season is creeping up on us! \:\)

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CB, Makaha! Ho you one local cuz! What, you pick up some poke on the side of the road on da way? Nah brah, my 'surf reports' also now come from SJ snow depth reports.

 

Yah, Indo, the North Shore is a small place. You can run into Kelly Slater on many winter days playing basketball at the Haleiwa alii Beach Park or Tom currren eating a burger at Kua'aina's on the same day. It is a very small community.

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I just thought the bay was anit more protected..

 

And when ya've got the top 100-200 pros (from each surfing country) and every other wannabe in town over winter, you're guaranteed to run into someone everyday. Kinda like Indo in the dry season on a lesser scale.

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As anyone who has been to Waimea knows, it's just barely a bay. A sliver on the North Shore that I guess technically amounts to a bay. The left side is pretty open with a small rock formation that children jump off of and a river and a land mass on the right perhaps qualifies it as a bay. In any event, the NS surf reports come as one. If it's 6-8 it is generally so across the coasline on the news/radio. Makapu'u, Sandy Beach, Diamond Head, South(Waikiki, etc.) , and Ewa (west) all get their own reports.

 

Highjacking of thread statement (sorry); there is nothing I've ever heard that compares to the thunderous roar of Waimea when it's going at full crank in the winter! To me, Banzai, Pipe, Sunset, Rocky point, Gas Chambers, U-land, etc, etc, don't come close to the scary factor of what Waimea serves up.

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I used to timidly bring my body board there and stand on shore with a tremendous amount of fear just listening to what the ocean was saying. Bringing my surf board never once crossed my mind. Perhaps twice I paddled out and that is where I earned my battle scars. My back, belly and feet are pretty scarred up. It's a spooky place to me in the winter. In the summer it's gentle, a nice place to have a lunch with your family. I still have dreams where I wake up gasping for air after being bowled at Waimea.

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Surfer but mostly just a wave freek. A place like Sandy's Beach has a strong shore break so I'll bring a body board if I go b/c surfing just isn't that fun at a place like that. And in the case of Waimea in the winter, I can body board it but sure the hell can't paddle or be towed out to surf it. I ride a short board and it always annoys me when longboarders make comments against us or actually try to run into us out on a wave.

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I would love to visit Teahupoo!! Now that`s a wave! Apparently no other surf spot in the world exacts a higher death toll than here! The boys who ride the monsters are all nuts. Then there is Laird Hamilton who is just a freak of nature, ridiculously fit and with seemingly no fear!! Ledgend!

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Watched "Riding Giants" a while back and it starts with this scene where the camera pulls out from a tight shot of the surfer to gradually reveal an absolute MONSTER of a wave, I think it has to do with the angle it is shot at from the helicopter, but it just looks too big! Anyone seen it? Can`t remember the location or the surfer at the time but is it CG or real? Its just crap your kecks big!

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