Climbing

[damian 0]

I eventually got my act together and started taking my very first wall climbing lessons. I touched a wall for the first time a week ago. I am sure all the experienced climbers will laugh at this, but here is what I noticed:

 

- It is easy at first but quickly get physically demanding. Bad technique costs lots of energy. Did a 16m 4+ on my first climb. Then I repeated it, no probs. Then I did it a third time, harder. The fourth attempt was suddenly really hard. Back at the bottom my arms and hand muscles couldn't have picked up a bowling ball if they wanted to!

 

- Falling is a unique sensation. I had no idea about the different shapes of hold and when attempting a 5+ I reached a point where I was about to fall, but held on. Then reaching for the next grip my hand slipped and off I came. I found the sensation of climbing until I fell to be quit a buzz, but also sweaty and tiring. I tried 3 times to get up a 32m wall but fell every time at about 16m. even if my life had depended on it, I still would have fallen.

 

- It is enjoyable physical and mental exercise, but I don't think I am cut out for real rock climbing. You guys are a rare breed.

 

- Girls were gracefully flying past me up the 32m wall. It was so effortless for them. I got to see their ketsu!

 

- The German instructor I had was a really nice dude and made it fun and challenging.

 

Next weekend I am attacking the 32m wall first off when my arms are fresh. I want to get a sensation for that kind of height. As a hack beginner the basic climbing routes are easy to to, but hard to do well and in volume. After a little first attempt and small taste of what its all about, it suddenly became very interesting to watch a proper climber execute their art. I take my hat off to the competant climbers out there.

[mattlucas 0]

You're a step further than I am Spud

I really have to start practicing so that I can stop being turned back on the easy routes outside

 

There is a free bouldering place about 100 meters from my door. And even though it's kind of gross they even have climbing shoes on loan to use.

Not sure why I havn't been over there yet.

 

You can't say you aren't cut out for rock climbing when you are doing it in the gym

 

Once you get out on a real mountain it would all come together and will be meaningful

[damian 0]

You should go and play around on it. I just used my glacier harness and a pair of thin old joggers, although pretty quickly you notice when boot grip would help out some. Same as hand grip. A few coloured moulds were worn out and quite smooth and if you have a sweaty palm then it is tough to grip (unless you know the technique).

 

I told the instructor what I am into snow wise and he said that soon we will stop doing top-rope climbing and he will start teaching me some basics of free climbing (? terminology), clipping into a quickdraw placed every meter up the wall.

 

Definitely go and use it if it is free and close by. I pay a bit to play and have to cycle a 35km round trip to get there. You got it easy. This bouldering thing is a new oddity as well. I bouldered 6 meters sideways, never more than a meter from the ground. I am totally new to the idea and it seemed like such an unproductive concept. But watching the guys do the real boulder wall was again, quite entertaining. There is art to it.

 

I know I already said it, but it is such a unique sensation as you reach up and over a lump in the wall, but not quite pull it off and you think "oh dear, I am about to fall and there is nothing I can do to stop it". By rights it should scare the crap out of you, but it doesn't because even though you are quite high, you are belayed with a top rope. Its like cheating death. But wow, that rope really stretches when you fall.

 

My issue of Alpinist just arrived and there is a story on the history of a climbing crag called Mount Arapiles in Victoria, Australia. It was very enjoyable to read. But I really don't know how those guys do what they do. The spikes of fear that they must feel... then suppressing the fear before it spirals out of control.

 

I never knew rock climbers were such a unique and obsessed bunch.

[Yuki's Passion 1]

I was always confused by the Euro numbers. Is a 4 like a 9Aish N.A.?

 

Had a huge fear of heights when I was younger which is why I started rock climbing in h.s. Glad my mate got me into that which eventually lead me to start skydiving. My crazy dream, back from hs to uni, was to climb Angel Falls then BASE jump it

 

We used to train in an indoor gym 2xs/week after practice then go inbetween meets on the weekends outdoor. Indoor was always harder than outdoor because of holds and the route. Outdoors theres always more variables, at least up to the levels I could climb, than what you have indoors.

 

Free climbing is different in one major way than top-rope, if you fall free climbing, and your last clipped beaner was 5 moves below you and you were just about to clip in, then your gonna fall a long way - that always scared the shite outta me. Most likely in an indoor gym theyre not to spaced apart so the fall would be minimal.

[mattlucas 0]

 Quote:

Originally posted by Creek Boy:
I was always confused by the Euro numbers. Is a 4 like a 9Aish N.A.?

Are those numbers just for indoors CB?

In Canada it's Class 1 2 3 4 5 with 5 being broken into 5.1-5.15 with letters thrown in as well which I don't understand

You have inspired me Spud
I went to the gym and got my membership. Just have to wait until tomorrow for them to get their shit in place so I can sign my life away...

[Yuki's Passion 1]

Nope Beanie. Was indoor/outdoor. But that was also a looooooong time ago too. The scale that was being used in the states at the time coulda changed. Hardest climb I did without falling was a 12D and was really happy that day

[montoya 0]

We used to visit the climbing gym last year off and on, it was fun and probably helped out when we had do some scrambling on mtn. routes recently.

 

I could definitely see how it would enhance your bc snow skills. For example, digging a pit on suspect slopes while using a belay rope, rappelling past obstacles, etc.

[mattlucas 0]

Hey Montoya

 

Where have you been?

 

What did you get yourself up this past summer?

[damian 0]

Yeah Monty, why all the quiet on this rad stuff you've been doing in the mountains. We need more people talking about snow and mountains around here. There are only a small handful.

 

Creeky - I believe they my wall uses the UIAA rating system. Often expressed in Roman numerals, sometimes not. Grade 4 to 5+ are at the mega low end of the scale. Best I can gather: UIAA is a central European system that never really took off. On my wall, the quick draw carabineers are spaced 100cm apart, making free climbing safer than with large distances between protection.

 

Beanie - good man. Lucky you don't have a pair of tender office workers hands like mine, or else you would lose a bit of skin, like I did. I think the 5.xx system your mentioned is the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). It seems the most popular. The UIAA 4 - 5 seems equivalent to YDS 5.4 - 5.7

 

I have no idea why climbs aren't ranked from 1 to infinity. Australia seems the only place that uses just a simple numbered system that keeps getting higher as climbs get harder.

[montoya 0]

 Quote:

Originally posted by Toque:
Hey Montoya

Where have you been?

What did you get yourself up this past summer?

toque and spud, I've been busy with work, but managed to get out there a few times.

here you go..

[mattlucas 0]

Back after my first time in a gym ever

Went bouldering for a bit

I suck

But I am going to stick to it

 

My fore arms are killing

Holding a pen will be difficult tomorrow

[Rag-Doll 0]

Spud,

 

I grew up 20k from Mt Arapiles. It’s a great climbing place with a large climbing community. The mountain sticks out of pankcake flat wheat fields and offers amazing views and superb exposure. Lots of great named climbs of all standards.

 

You’re spot on with the “Bad technique costs lots of energy” – it’s a lot like swimming in that regard. If your technique is crap you won’t go anywhere. Get yourself some climbing boots/shoes –old joggers are to climbing what a 2 x 4 is to snowboarding. I haven’t done any serious climbing for quite a few years now (ah, those were the days!) but you’ll find that with decent boots your ability to stand on a hold will improve out of sight which will reduce the need to hang from your hands.

 

Climbing is a great sport and there is an enormous climbing community that is quite distinct from the mountaineering community.

 

There shouldn't be any fear with top roping. that's the beauty of the sport - you can push yourself to your limits and beyond without fear of killing yourself - lunge for the next hold, tackle over hangs and all sorts of other stuff without a care.

 

Toque is right about free climbing or lead climbing as we used to call it - even if you manage to get the protection placed properly, a 2-3 meter run out can result in a 4-6 meter fall against the rocks - oddly enough, often the more difficult the climb when lead climbing the less danger of hitting something when you fall. That puts a lot of stress the proection, if it gets pulled out, the fall is longer and the stress on the next bit of protection is that much greater and on it goes until someting holds or you stop falling.

 

You gotta trust you climbing buddy with your life. The good thing though is that there is less of a problem with weight and strength differences. You and your GF could climb together with out a lot of the concerns you would face on a glacier.

[AK 77 0]

Climbing is fun/sacry/horrible/great!

 

I had two climbers (and mountaineers) for parents in the UK, so had no choice about climbing or not (I know it sounds spoilt, but I really appreciate it now, and did most of the time then - well, apart from being a grumpy hormonal 13 year old, anyway, I digress).

 

You are spot on about the technique - hopefully your instructor will work on this, rather than getting you to muscle your way up stuff just cos you are fit and strong.

Good climbers climb on their legs, and just use their hands to hold themselves onto the rock and in balance.

I am not speaking as an expert - I stopped climbing when I was about 15, but did a couple of days with my sister who climbs regulary this summer in the UK - she can only do 1 pull-up! But can climb harder routes than me. We were climbing up to HVS outdoor, but only single pitch routes, and I didn't lead (what you call freeclimbing - which is confusing, as that phrase is also used to describe 'solo-ing' or climbing with no ropes at all!)

 

Try to develop a technique that focusses on balance and moving up on your legs, and you'll be able to climb for longer and not be in finger agony the next day!

 

Having said that, climbing indoors is a bit different as its much more technical and steeper than outdoor routes you would be climbing at the same ability level, so arms are always going to get more tired, but you can still try to lesson this. Especially as you won't fall and die/hurt yourself, and being scared (climbing outddoors) is pretty tiring!

[damian 0]

Cool, some real climbers come out of the woodwork. AK – I am envious of your childhood. Having outdoor adventurous parents would be good. The lead climbing routes on my wall have protection every meter. I am heading directly for that once the instructor gives the nod. As you suggested he should, the focus at the moment is on technique.

 

RagDoll – I am not is envious of your childhood – I don’t think I could live in that hot incredibly flat land. But when you are a kid you don’t know any different. You should buy the Autumn issue of Alpinist. It is a first class international quarterly magazine and contains nothing short of a significant salute to the rock you grew up near. The story is an historical account since 1965 and a good read. I don’t want to buy climbing shoes as I see it as cheating, like taking performance enhancing drugs . I like climbing as a fun exercise, but as usual, yet again… you have to have another person to do it with. Are there no fun activities besides masturbation that one can’t do alone? I want to get my girlfriend into it for some fun and also development of confidence and trust. Problem is, she doesn't care to live in the same city as me and is currently living in the dirty-cool world of Montmartre in Paris. With my dog.

 

Beanie – it hurts the next day. I even had a stiff neck and a headache. Good on you for getting into it. It is really interesting to get this glimpse into what is quite a unique collection of obsessed people.

[mattlucas 0]

 Quote:

Originally posted by le spud:
It is really interesting to get this glimpse into what is quite a unique collection of obsessed people.

I don't know about that
They are no more crazy about their sport that we are about ours
If anything maybe we are crazier because we are trying to further ourselves in our own sports by learning skills from others

AK I see your point on using your legs to stay good for longer. That's one area where I can excel. But I still have to work on my fore arms strength just so I can even hold onto the wall.

[damian 0]

I know what you mean. What I meant to say myself: it is good getting a glimpse into another group of obsessed people.

 

I seldom encounter anyone with a unique obsession, which makes life a bit dull. It is particularly hard to met people with an obsession with physically and psychologically demanding things. I know a guy utterly obsessed with... tennis. Another one with horse riding.

[damian 0]

The good news, with great effort I made it to the top of the 32m wall. It was a UIAA 5 route. Plus I did a wandering 16m, 5+ route that some other guys couldn't do (and they had chalk bags and climbing shoes and stuff). I admit it was hard for me, but they didn't even reach the hard part: the mini crux at the top where you had to grip onto something the size and colour of a frog using spaghetti fingers. Excuse my lack of modesty.

 

The bad news: I found out today that the climbing wall closes next weekend for winter. What F?! A real let down. Now I have to visit the indoor place.

 

The 32m high wall is the highest one. The bulge at the tope is quite hard as your arms are tired by then.

 

Toque, here's the pics of my skis that I remember you asking for.

[Ocean11 0]

I was trying to find the names of the smelly, dirty, self-obsessed climbers that I lived with in Manchester and who ran a magazine full of vicious sniping about who put pegs in what route, and who pulled them out again. But I found this instead;

 

 

Not something you see very often.

 

> Are there no fun activities besides masturbation that one can’t do alone? I want to get my girlfriend into it for some fun and also development of confidence and trust.

 

Yes, definitely best to take things slowly.

 

 

> Problem is, she doesn't care to live in the same city as me and is currently living in the dirty-cool world of Montmartre in Paris.

 

 

I never liked climbing much, and liked it even less after I had a nasty fall out of a stupid "figger a'eight" harness that I had been assured, against my better judgement, was "simple but safe". Simple it was, but safe it was not. Besides falling a good way down the cliff due to the ineptitude of my belay girl (something else I wasn't too thrilled about), the damn harness nearly strangled me.

[mattlucas 0]

 Quote:

Originally posted by le spud:
Toque, here's the pics of my skis that I remember you asking for.

Dude so jealous
If I have extra money I'm gonna drop it the bindings and boots. Oh man. Jealous.

That's a huge wall. Good to deal with heights like that. I don't get more than 2 meters off the ground and that's only for the last move. If I even get that far. There are 2 routes that I can do at my gym. 1 I can get up a couple times before zonking. The other I have not gotten up because it is all overhanging (upside down stairs style) but the holds are pretty big. I will get up it soon I hope. Gonna get into there again tomorrow.

[me jane 0]

For Tokyo people there is a great climbing gym in Fuchinobe (near Machida). It's pretty big and even beginners can go by themselves because aside from the regular top rope routes than need a partner or instructor to belay from the bottom, they have these funny retractable ropes you can clip into. As you climb up they retract into the ceiling and if you fall they release (relatively) slowly and deposit you at the bottom again. It has boldering & lead climbing(? - I mean the ones you clip into as you go) walls and even a kids jungle gym type thing. I went a few times when it first opened but then I moved so now I can't get there after work until just before it closes. In the opening week they had some of Japan's best climbers come in and do demos. As Spud says it really is an art and seeing the pros at it was like watching a form of dance. I especially enjoyed watching all the half naked guys with their muscles ripped!

[soubriquet 0]

Excuse my ignorance, but what are those bindings and how do they work?

[mattlucas 0]

Dynafit backcountry bindings

[soubriquet 0]

Thanks.

[AK 77 0]

wow, that's a great climbing wall, especially being outside, shame it's closing for the winter, that sucks.

 

that huge overhanging lump of concrete is quite scary looking - it looks like it might topple over (even though it obviously won't)

[Yuki's Passion 1]

anybody see some of the vids of the Yamakasi runners? Free-running meets climbing =