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That was good to read.

 

It is interesting that she differentiates between back country and ski mountaineering. Sure, I differentiate as well in that I enjoy the 'ski mountaineering' stuff more than 'back country', per her definitions. However I still call it all back country.

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 Quote:
Originally posted by eskimobasecamp:
... about someone's experience on that course - would love to learn all of that one day
Hey EBC, don't wait for enough money, spare time and correct part of the world to do a course and start learning. The more you read now, all the more familiar it will be when you are in a position to do a course. And it is going to come in handy, especially if you ever go anywhere near a glacier (which you will sooner rather than later: Europe, Canada, Alaska, NZ, Greenland, Andes. They are unavoidable and most often quite welcome in high mountain ski touring)

Although it looks exciting, I have never rock climbed and likely never will; it doesn't interest me. But if you have a background in that stuff then it will be a very valuable starting point. Starting from zero knowledge, I now use all of the below only after two beginner years of back country touring (with a snow-and-ice mountaineering flavour). If I had to pick the few basic skills for ski mountaineering to start boning up on, then these would be them (assuming you have a solid av knowledge).

Much of this basic toolbox of skills and knowledge can be practiced in a grassy park. It might help to have a harness. By far the best for what you want to do is the Black Diamond Alpine Bod. They are simple and light and don't have certain features that make other harnesses uncomfortable when doing a lot of physical riding and travel. Remember, you are not rock climbing, you are mountaineering using a rope and harness as a safety device.

Self Arrest
http://student.kuleuven.be/~m9916724/technique/sarrest.htm
http://www.hightrek.co.uk/climbing/how2/axe1.htm
http://www.hightrek.co.uk/climbing/how2/axe2.htm


Four very useful knots:

- tie onto the rope (figure 8)
http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8follow/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website

- Get up the rope out of a hole (klemheist - like a prussic but you can use slings)
http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website

- Abseil (munter hitch) or Belay with axe and karabiner (munter/Italian hitch & Clove hitch)
http://www.animatedknots.com/cloveclimbing/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munter_hitch
http://www.animatedknots.com/muntermule/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website


Two useful techniques

- Pulling some clumsy bastard out of a hole.

http://www.rockandice.com/guide%20tip/guide%20tip.z%20pulley.123.html

- Fast belay with boot and axe
http://www.rockandice.com/guide%20tip/guide%20tip.boot%20axe.123.html


Two books by the same British author. England may be a flat boring country, but the British invented Mountaineering in the European Alps, and they write very good books on the topic. These are quick reading and to the point plus inexpensive:

- Mountain Navigation http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1871890551/026-8809335-2001260?v=glance&n=266239

- Alpinism http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1871890098/026-8809335-2001260?v=glance&n=266239

You can achieve a lot in a short period of time

Oh yes, although Dizzy was a good guy to escort you off the mountain and there is no way I think he did the wrong thing, keep this sin mind: it is perfectly normal and widely accepted for many years to leave in situ an incapacitated member of a mountaineering party that does not require any immediate treatment. So long as they are warm, safe and if lucky, able to boil a hot cup of tea.... you leave them there and pick them up on the way home in the afternoon. If the 'summit' party all die or get lost, then the person left alone should at least have the nav skills to get home by themselves before it gets dark. So get training and get fit ;\)
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Fattwins:
I didnt read that one yet a bit much to read at work. spud mate you put together essays.
It only looks like a lot of info because there are lost of short sentences and spaces, making it a long post. It isn't really an essay (unlike other posts of mine)

Besides, I like the topic, I have learners enthusiasim.
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le spud, merci beaucoup - i just finally got the time to click on all those links, i will read more indepth later, but they look excellent - thanks for posting them. there's lots to learn and in the run up to this season, it's going to be full on training and reading - i have some good avalanche safety books too. it doesn't compare to actual experience on a mountain, but a MUST to read all this stuff first and then learn. i'm just a beginner rockclimber really and have a lot to learn there - i'm not really interested in becoming a rockclimber as such, i just want it as an additional tool for the mountains, ie climbing and rope skills. it's great to be learning and progressing and for me - i have the time and the focus and i'm in the right place to train and to get out there, living IN the mountains is a fantastic thing!

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Hi baggy pants - regarding the long post of info, you are welcome.

 

Regarding Haute Route: I think I would rather do it in summer as a walking tour than a ski tour in spring. I have seen Haute Route high season after bad weather has delayed everyone departure for a few days. I even stayed in a hut that some people use to get an early start. It rivals Japan for crowds. It is a genuinely very busy path with a constant flow of people like ants following piss (or what ever they follow). Don't get me wrong, I don't mind doing something that everyone else does - if it is a new experience for me, then it is new. Who cares how old it is for 1000's of others. But I don't want to do it at the same time as everyone else. And nor do I want to give up a week of spring holidays in the couloirs for a crowded ski tour.

 

You can easily spend a week ski touring and climbing peaks/descending couloirs in the Mont Blanc massif itself. Just going from hut to hut, taking a day or two at each hut to hike and ride the glaciers and chutes in the area. I would rather do that in spring than the Haute Route.

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