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Ito in Izu-Hanto, Shizouka - March 2012


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Back in March I made a non-snowboarding trip down to Izu-Hanto, one of my favourite not-too-far-away-from-home places to visit. For those you don’t know, Izu is a peninsula about 100km SW of Tokyo and is mainly known for its onsen and coastal towns.

 

Taking the train from my part of the world took about 2 and a half hours, with a couple of changes in Odawara and Atami, both of which are worth a visit in their own right, the former for its castle and the latter for its onsen. The train journey itself is interesting since, after Odawara, much of the time the line runs alongside the coast, so there are some good views to be had on the left hand side of the train, providing you can see out of the window!

 

Ito is quite a large town, though you wouldn’t think so when you first step out of the station. There are the obligatory souvenir/omiyage shops but it lacks the hustle and bustle of Odawara and Atami. However, there are some interesting arcades and side streets that run from the station towards the Matsukawa river and the sea and you’ll find most of the restaurants in and around this area.

 

I’m no architect or building-buff but one thing I noticed wandering around town were the different building styles. I reckon Ito’s had a couple of boom periods, as there were quite a lot of older, Showa era-style shops, many of which seemed to be closed for the three days I was there, but also plenty of the ugly, bubble era hotels, which also seemed to have seen better days. One building, however, that is definitely worth a visit is the Tokaikan, a beautiful old Japanese Inn on the bank of the Matsukawa river.

 

Anyone seen any shoppers?

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Showa-style restaurant

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Tokaikan entrance

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Tokaikan from the river

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The seafront has some interesting scupltures including one of William Adams, better know as “Anjin-san” from James Clavell’s book “Shogun”. As a lad, I remember staying up late to watch the based-on-the-book tv drama series starring Richard Chamberlain and although I look at it now and cringe, it was definitely one of the reasons why I became interested in Japan. Adams built the first western-style ships in Japan.

 

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A stay in an onsen town wouldn’t be complete without a dip or two in the local water. I managed to sneak my camera phone into this one.

 

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& a stay in a seaside town wouldn't be complete without sampling the local cuisine.

 

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I stayed at K’s House which is part of the same chain of hostels as the one in Hakubu Goryu. It’s a ryokan-styled hostel situated nextdoor to the Tokaikan and therefore shares the same riverside location. I’d definitely recommend staying here and paying a bit extra for a riverside room and view.

 

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Overall I liked Ito, especially for a long weekend away. It’s a well-worn cliché but life definitely feels slower and more relaxed there. Judging by the state of some of the buildings, it may not be as popular as it once was but I quite liked the slightly worn-around-the-edges, nostalgic feel to the place. It’s also a good base for trips to Mt Omuro and the Jogasaki coastline plus you could combine it with a trip to Atami or go further on down the Ito line to the final stop, Shimoda, which I visited last year and also really liked. In fact, I’ve only travelled by train down the east coast and have read and heard that the scenery on the western side is equally as, if not more beautiful. It’s certainly the quieter side because it’s not served by train and therefore can only be explored by bus or independent means of transport. With that in mind, I plan to hire a car and do a bit more exploring there this summer!

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WHAT?? You waltz into my town without even a phone call. Sheesh.....I certainly could have shown you around to some better places than the "boro boro" downtown. Argh, it's such a depressing dump. Anyway, glad you had a good time...haha.

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WHAT?? You waltz into my town without even a phone call. Sheesh.....I certainly could have shown you around to some better places than the "boro boro" downtown. Argh, it's such a depressing dump. Anyway, glad you had a good time...haha.

 

Sh*t!! Sorry, I didn't realise! :doh: So, speaking as a local, was my assessment of the place a fair one??

 

& for the record, what and where are the better places? :thumbsup:

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No worries Mick.. ;) If you ever find yourself down this way.. do give me a call.

 

Yes, your assessment was accurate and fair. Getting out of town and going to Ippeki-ko and Izukogen is where you should shoot for next time. It's still Ito south but it's so much nicer than anything around town. It's maddening and ironic that the only decent looking structure is City Hall. Wonderful use of our tax dollars. Again, most of the city is rusting and crumbling into nothingness while all the tourists drive by on their way down to Shirahama and Shimoda. Quite sad really.

 

I think I should apply for a job at the Ito tourism association..... :sj-lol:

 

Cheers,

Chris

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  • 2 months later...

Yeah, your evaluation was precise and reasonable. Getting out of town and going to Ippeki-ko and Izukogen is where you should capture for when. It is still Ito southern but it is so much more pleasing than anything around town. It is frustrating and interesting that the only reasonable looking framework is City Area. Amazing use of our tax money. Again, most of the town is corroding and failing into nothingness while all the visitors generate by on their way down to Shirahama and Shimoda.

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