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Kingofmyrrh

SnowJapan Member
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Posts posted by Kingofmyrrh

  1. Yesterday I was at shida shita. I know that the taito - shida shita stretch gets mocked by everyone, but throught june and this first week of july, it has had the best shape of all the spots from katagai south every time except for once. It's really odd because last year it was just slop around there, whereas now it's shapely (if small).

  2. Originally Posted By: Mantas
    Originally Posted By: Indo
    .
    @ Lakeys one morning (I was always on the 5am session!) I was out by myself for 30 mins but in a total of under 90 mins I had 20 solid waves under my belt and to today I will always remember the count.. Me 17 (deep pits) Lakeys 3 (on the head, ground into the reef on the inside!)



    You did better at lakeys than me Indo. I can't remember getting too many barrels and I copped the worst flogging of my life (no confused , second worst).
    I got caught inside with a solid set looming over my head and about 20 inches of water to hide in. I managed to wedge myself in a crevis in the coral but the wave just plucked me off the reef like a starfish and rolled my across about 20 meters of coral. When I came up, both my board (brand new) was snapped in halve as well as my legrope.
    sadface


    stories like this make me happy to be a beginner for a while more...
  3. 17-3, pretty good score! I think it will be a while before I get a win at any spot, but as long as I get a few on the scoreboard I don't mind taking a drubbing! I did get a bit hungry but I was parked a bit far away from where I was actually surfing and it all seemed like a bit too much effort to give it up... anyway I didn't want to brave the walk across the hot black sand! Won't forget my sandals next time!

     

    Yeah Tsonda I did have a rash guard on Saturday but sadly it doesn't protect me below the waist... maybe I need a rash leotard or something... giving me visions of the mankini... shifty

  4. Originally Posted By: Mantas
    Nice effort Kingo. You must be really enjoying your surfing.
    I think my record is about the same, 5 hours, that was at Jefferies Bay South Africa.
    My bro did 7 hours at Naraloo,( Western Oz desert)


    I am really enjoying it, but I am still very much a beginner. Still, that just means that progress comes faster. I am heading out to Bali this summer, which I can't wait for, but does require me finding a solution to this rash if I'm going to be at it for several days in a row!
  5. Hello guys. Good to know I'm not alone. I pitched up in the morning and was in the water before 9 (later than I'd like but had been at the bottle the night before). Had a pleasing start but then couldn't seem to grab anything after that - I have a pretty dodgy relationship with my board right now. Then I managed to borrow something bigger from a guy in the water and was having more luck, but was getting a bit cold after about 2hrs in. Thought I'd catch another couple with my own board before heading back but for some reason this time round I couldn't stop getting waves and was having the time of my life! For some reason there weren't so many people at that exact section of the beach, so everyone took it in turns unlike the usual Chiba free for all, with some pro-looking guy providing entertainment as well. Probably nothing special for you Aussies but pretty cool to watch for me. I'd had one onigiri for breakfast but was too busy having fun to get hungry (until I got out). Then I burned the soles of my feet walking on the black sand like a complete fool, changed and out of there by 2:30. I guess when you're a weekend warrior you want to squeeze everything you can out of each trip.

  6. Random question for you guys - now that summer's back in Japan, had my first day out in shorts yesterday. Had a great day but was eventually forced out the water after five hours because the damn things had given me an angry red rash on the inner thigh. Or maybe it wasn't the shorts themselves but the absence of "support" you get from a wetsuit. This killed me week in week out last summer but I forgot about it over the long wetsuit season. This ever happened to any of you guys? I know it sounds pretty weird but do people ever wear underwear with shorts? Sorry to interrupt the conversation with this but it stings like hell and makes me walk around like a damn cowboy for the next few days...

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