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barok

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Posts posted by barok

  1. By two points I meant that there is a

    clamp that hooks on top of each rail

    along both sides of the boot. it is

    maybe 4-6 cm long. This clamp provides

    the lock-in point. I guess by four points,

    they must mean the front and back of the

    clamp-rail system, and I guess that

    makes some sense because . . . let's say

    you carve and turn backside, your heels

    press up and the rails on your boots exert

    on the back of the clamps, and if you turn

    frontside, your toes are up and the rails

    exert on the front of the clamps - but

    even giving these bindings the benefit of

    the doubt, that's still only two points

    (per boot) at a time - just not enough.

    you really want an even distribution of

    pressure over the board, and from the

    board back onto your foot. Riding switch

    bindings, you will feel alot of vibration,

    and I think this comes from the lack of

    pressure distribution.

     

    And "yeah, what Don said" about walking

    around with big iron rails on your boot -

    It's no good.

     

    I personally used the n-type switch

    binding. The highback is said to reduce

    heellift and give more support.

     

    As for what gear is the best . . .

    I have only studied the conventional gear,

    and

    People really seem to like the following

    companies for boots and bindings. . .

     

    Bindings (some are pricey, some are not)

    Burton (CFX, C14, Custom)

    Drake (F-50, F-60, Podium)

    Ride (Brushie)

    Technine (Signature)

     

    You can find great deals on bindings online

    ebay ! ! I would buy any one of these

    bindings if I could get a good price on

    them. All of these companies are solid, they stand behind their product, and they will be around for years to come. So if

    you can find one of these cheap, go for it.

    Just make sure you get the right size.

    Bindings are important, don't get

    me wrong, but not nearly as important as . .

     

    Boots

    DC (Revolution 2, Phantom)

    Vans (Jamie Lynn, Daniel Frank)

    Burton (Ion)

    Salomon (Malamute, Synapse, Dialog)

    Northwave (Supra)

     

    With any boot though, fit is the most

    important thing ! ! ! Can't stress

    that enough. If you are going to spend

    the money, spend it on the boots, you'll

    thank yourself later for it.

     

    This year, I chose Burton C14's bindings

    because they are super lightweight, and adjustable in every way imaginable. I

    also got DC Revolution 2's, because they

    are stiff, and they have a pump system

    that molds the inner liner to your foot -

    very comfortable and form fitting. I ride

    freeride and hit kickers for most of the season, and hit the pipe in the spring.

     

    hope that wasn't needlessly complicated.

  2. I just purchased a new set of gear after

    riding switch bindings and boots for

    a year. my advice is don't bother with

    this stuff.

     

    There are of course advantages and

    disadvantages to step-in gear vs. traditional

    gear. The main advantage being that switch

    saves you some time. You will get more runs

    in if you are riding solo. It is also alot

    easier to just step in rather than sitting down and strapping in every run.

     

    The disadvantages far outweigh the advantages

    however. . .

     

    With switch gear, your foot is only locked

    in at 2 points, one of them being your arch.

    This translates to MAJOR heel lift, sore

    arches, and limited turning and stopping

    power.

     

    The cushioning of my new traditional gear

    was absent in my old plastic and metal

    switch setup.

     

    Step-ins are a pain in the arse in the

    powder. If there is any crust on your

    binding, you won't be able to lock in.

    Plus if you get stuck in the powder, the

    snow jammed in between the moving parts

    makes it very very difficult to step out.

     

    Step-in systems are not compatible with

    other systems, meaning if you want to

    check out a different board, you have to

    switch your bindings over as well. You

    can't just hop on a friends's board.

     

    Most companies' high end gear is all

    traditional. Examples are the Burton C14

    bindings, the high-end boots from Northwave,

    Burton, DC, Nidecker, Vans, etc. etc.

    You simply have more room to upgrade if you

    go traditional.

     

    My opinion is that Step-ins are good for

    learning freestyle, but they just don't

    perform for freeriding, or even intermediate

    or advanced freestyle.

     

    But hey, that's just my $0.02

  3. think about your hometown, how would you be if every week would come and go masses of japanese tourists, drinking too much and trying to get the most beatifull girls in town...??

    i can understand them a little and i know that many people in other ski areas are much more open to foreigners!

     

    - -

    Well if I was a businessman, I'd try to

    cater to those masses and take in some

    loot.

  4. naaah,

     

    not neccessary. . . i've seen it a

    thousand times.

     

    i'm tellin' ya - if you ride pipe in the

    late late spring, you need to strip it to

    get any speed.

     

    try it.

     

    people do it in boardercross as well,

    because alot of the boardercross races

    are late season. . .

     

    i've seen in boarderX

    when people have stripped

    their boards with diesel fuel. the diesel

    removes the wax and is hydrophobic, so

    they are able to hydroplane on the

    slush instead of sinking in it.

     

    in some cases the resorts will salt the

    runs with ammonium nitrate - fertilizer -which lowers the effective melting temperature of the slope turning the slush into ice, also allowing for faster runs.

     

    the problem comes into play where both

    techniques are used . . . a boarder

    with diesel on his/her board slides down

    a run salted with ammonium nitrate

    and the run will actually catch on fire.

     

    diesel + fertilizer = bad news

     

    still don't believe me ?

    try it.

  5. salomons are good (number 2 on my list).

    all of my friends ride salomons

    they are pricey, but . . .

     

    they are better than alot of the crap out

    there (burton, forum, etc.) - sorry if this

    offends anyone, but the best team riders,

    slickest graphics, and sickest videos don't make up for sweatshop construction, poor customer service and LIMITED warranties.

     

    i'm moving to japan (hopefully nagano or

    sapporo) next september, so I got a board

    this year that would take that into account,

    and i decided on the never summer premier.

    it's waaay better than anything else i have

    ridden. much better than my burton and my

    nidecker.

     

    check it out at www.neversummer.com

     

    and check out the award it won,

    and the corresponding posts

    i think they say it all.

     

    the board works well on groomed, ungroomed,

    backcountry, and powder.

     

    i'll probably have to get another board

    for the pipe though. but i'm gonna get

    it end of season, when everything is

    discounted.

     

    as for limited selection, you can call

    or email manufacturers directly. chances

    are they will be happy to hook you up.

    your dollar, is after all, what keeps them

    in business.

  6. stiffer = more control

    stiffer = faster turns, quicker response time

     

    most of your topline boots

    (Burton Ion, Salomon Malamute, etc.)

    are stiff boots.

     

    but stiff only goes so far,

    fit is the most important thing,

    so I gotta agree with Nat,

    DC is the way to go, I'm picking

    some up stat, the pump seals your

    foot in perfectly. gotta spend the

    loot though - both pump models -

    the Revolution 2 and the Phantom

    are very expensive.

     

    BR

  7. gotta say to those learning switch -

    don't do it on a beginner slope,

    it's way too slow, and easy to lose

    control and balance.

     

    try it on a freshly groomed intermediate

    slope. faster = easier to control and turn.

    if you can find the cordurouy, your in

    switch-learning heaven.

     

    as for the angles, it's yer back foot

    (riding switch or regular) that

    provides most of your torque, so the

    closer it is to zero, the easier your

    turns will be.

     

    I've never ridden duckfoot. It seems

    to me that you would lose alot of power

    ? ? ?

     

    ------------------

    Ben Rok

    barok@facstaff.wisc.edu

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