Yes, it smells funny, but the onsen water is *good for your skin* (well it'd wanna be)!
This is a big place. I went with a group of friends, one of whom is a part time instructor at the resort so I spent a lot of time practicing turns in a near white out...I don't remember a whole lot else.
There are good wide gerende (for practicing turns) and some fun trails. When the sky cleared the views are great. There was a lot of good skiing and few people.
I stayed at the Prince Hotel and it was good value and a nice place - good roast beef at the 'viking'. The guys get the best of the rotenburo though.
