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Pay someone else to do it. Seriously. Doing it yourself is messy, boring, and time consuming. That's my conclusion after doing it several times on my own, and several times with mates and beer.

 

Also, don't bother with that stuff that comes with a sponge on the top that you slather on before riding - if anything, I think it makes your board stickier. It's good for waxing the car windows of people who annoy you though. (I was going to say, people whose cars have ski racks on them, but some qualified psychiatrists who read this might get overly concerned...)

 

The ideal thing though, would be to have a wife who loves to wax.

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If you want to wax your board you'll need an

iron, swix makes a good one. i bought the hoelmenkole,sp, one and its a total piece of shit.

You'll need a plastic scrapernot metal, not a long one, ie the width of your board, get the normal size one.

You'll need a brush, the ones made by swix are really good, get the one with clear bristles cause the dark one is too hard and will scratch your board, the other too soft, goldie lox syndrome.

You'll need some scrub pads they look like dish cleaners and are in with the other stuff.

As for wax unless your nuts over snow temp etc I'd just get a universal wax good for most temps. That way if you wax for cold snow and its a warm day you'll still be able to move.

After you make the initial investment it pays itself off pretty quickly. Plus I think its fun?

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To wax it, heat the board up first if you can, until its warm, not hot, put it in front of your heater for a while. Drip the wax on by melting it on the iron. Iron it in well, not leaving the iron in one spot, always moving. Otherwise you'll bubble your base. Let it sit for a while and soak in. Scrape it angling the scraper to the base.At first just use long one directional strokes once you get the feel of it you can go back and forth. scrape it good or you'll just have to brush more. Brush it until the powder no longer appears, than buff it with the dish pad. Make sure and scrape the edges, bottom and outside, otherwise you won't be able to turn.

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too much information reverendbuda "use long one directional strokes...once you get the feel of it you can go back and forth"

 

"then buff it with a dish pad"

 

Im a ski tech in NZ, Ive never heard it said like that before...

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I think reverendbuba says it perfectly. I'm a snowboard tech in Japan, and that's exactly how it should be said!!!

I also think it's a good idea to use some of the quick wax after every trip. This takes next to no time and keeps your board from getting those horrible dry white patches over it. Then hot wax it after every 4 or 5 trips.

Happy sliding tongue.gif

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Mobi you big sukebe, behave yerself.

 

Blazer, you reckon you should put the quick wax on after sliding huh? Never heard that before, but it seems to make sense. Presumably that's after drying the board right?

 

Any tech or reverend gentleman who wants to wax my board for their own enjoyment is more than welcome. I'll certainly remember to stand clear when buba hits his rhythm with his big strokes though.

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My parents never told me I had to use wax...is there some secret I am missing here?

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You should also clean it before you wax it. Use terpentine if you can find it if not use a base cleaner/wax remover.

 

A ski tech in new zealand.. Thats like being a surf instructor in Alaska.

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buba - won't do it!

 

LN, by now you should be getting a pretty strong impression of how tiresome the whole business is. Do you like having turp stains and wax flakes in your tatami? And we haven't even got into the instructions for shaving your edges yet...

 

Of course, once you've bought the iron, the wax, the turps, the scraper, the brush, the tarp for the floor, the trestle, the file, the edge guides, the wax again, then it costs you nuthin' but a little time.

 

Or for 3,000 yen you can have some peon buff it up nicely and sharpen the edges so fine you could cut a finger off, all while you watch TV. But don't let it slide down the door of your new car like I did mine... Hey, maybe it was karma eh, reverend?

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After every time I go riding I dry my board and apply quick wax. This takes about 20 minutes. Then I hot wax it after about 4 or 5 trips. I totally recommend getting your own stuff, because if you are prepared to put in a bit of time it will make your board last longer and ride better.

It's convenient to get a shop to wax your board but you tend not to get it done as often as you should because of the cost. Go with your own gear doggy-style, it's better in the long run. (final thought, bear in mind that many Japanese electrical goods aren't compatible in other countries, if you are returning home soon)

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Any tips on waxing a snowboard with a textured base?

 

I have a Salomon 550 and the base has thousands of tiny lengthwise channels in it. It is a fast base, but I have the feeling that if I wax it, I'll just be clogging up the channels with wax and turning it into a regular base.

 

Are my fears baseless?

 

Please advise.

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Here I am again having tooled around the Net in search of tips on how to wax textured bases.

 

I found virtually no useful information, but did stumble across a review of a textured-base Forum board. Here is an amusing snippet from the review:

 

"One neat thing about the base is that it is textured with little ridges. This is supposed to help with tracking. I kind of noticed it help, but wasn't sure. What I did notice was a neat little sound the board made, kind of like the "zipzip" corduroy pants make as you walk with them on. The fun unfortunately doesn't last forever. After my first base grind in the shop, all the little ridges were gone. The board seems to ride exactly the same minus the cool noise."

 

 

What a total idiot! Both him and the shop that did a base grind and erased the texture.

 

Well, maybe he had his reasons.

 

Idiot.

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