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Spent the day trying to suss out the next car. Tired out the Forester and really liked it but the wife seems to have other ideas. We really can't agree on the same car... her suggestions were a Tanto (I don't even fit into it!) and the Freed (giant piece of shit!) while I was looking at the Vezel (awesome car!) and the Forester (good enough). Anyway, it looks like we are going to end up with a Toyota Wish which is very similar to the Cardina I drive now.

 

The big question still remains: should I pay out the extra 200,000¥ for the 4WD (that only really comes in handy a few times a year) or the 2WD? I'll have to decide pretty soon it seems to avoid that pesky tax increase that is coming up!

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I would not even consider a 2wd. Japan is full of awd cars for a reason.

Exactly!!!! If you can afford it go for 4WD it will make your life easier on the few occasions you need it. Never let woman decide a car it will always end in disaster. They choose cars because of c

Exactly!!!!

If you can afford it go for 4WD it will make your life easier on the few occasions you need it.

Never let woman decide a car it will always end in disaster. They choose cars because of cuteness and crap like that.

Put ur foot down and choose the car you want.

I could never imagine letting my wife choose my car oh no no way. Which is why I make the car decisions.

 

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He was basically saying that the engines are crap, hard to service and that they don't last as long as other cars. I'll have to give the Impresa sport another look but I didn't think it was big enough for what I like to do - boarding, camping and surfing. I'm looking more towards a wagon or van.

 

Maybe the Toyota Corolla Fielder then? One of my preferred rentals to go from Chitose to Niseko - easily fits 2-3 people with full gear and luggage (4 if you use the roof racks for the boards/skis), drives nicely on regular roads/highways, and has AWD for the snow. Just not elevated and not much ground clearance for off-road adventures.

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Cheers for that. I checked one out actually and it didn't quite fit the bill. Way too similar to the car I drive now! I'm certainly not letting my wife decide which car we are going to get but I've learned that a happy married needs compromise. She'd be reminded that I'm an asshole every time she drove the car otherwise. Plus if I got what I wanted shed probably have an accident and then blame it on me! Lol

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Was in Hakuba recently with a 2wd without snow tires however the car has something cal;led snow mode which to be honest I`m not sure if is effective only with snow tires.

 

The snow is so dry there in Jan and quite flat. It depends a fair bit on where you are planning on going I guess.

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Was in Hakuba recently with a 2wd without snow tires however the car has something cal;led snow mode which to be honest I`m not sure if is effective only with snow tires.

 

My car has a "snow mode," which basically just forces the car not to ever drop down to 1st gear. Intentionally lowers the torque available, reducing the chance of slipping.

 

Moderately useful when starting from a standstill, never tried without snowtires, but suppose it might be slightly useful then, too.

Nothing very exciting, though.

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I had the Cruiser out on some nice ice Saturday night testing out the new Yokohama IT's. Very nice traction and stopping despite the 3 tons of truck. The 80 series AWD is truly amazing...the best I've ever driven.

BM, the camper van I bought new back in 2006 was 2wd after my wife talking me out of the 4wd option....it was more like a 400,000 yen option though and not having it was the sole reason for selling 5 years later. I probably would have still been driving it if I had gone 4x4.

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They shold bottle that and sell that as air freshner.

Congrats on the new purchase.

 

What colour did you get - a lovely pea green or dirty brown? (Some of the choices people make!!! Are the awful ones just cheaper or something?!)

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We ended up with a nice deep red colour... maybe like wine red I guess.

 

I couldn't believe the shit they try to scam you with for add ons. There was this thing called 'shaken package' that was added (without anyone asking for it!) which basically gives you free oil changes every 6 months for the first 3 years (which actually only works out to 5 oil changes because of when the shaken inspection occurs). Then, they will take the car to the inspection center for us. Of course, we still have to pay for the shaken tax and any repairs. So basically 5 oil changes on a brand new car that doesn't need them, all for the low price of 115,000Y! :omg: Even if I took my car the 5 times to my local garage (which I won't coz a new car doesn't need it!) it would only cost me 10,000Y.

 

I don't think the sales guy liked that I went through the invoice with so closely AND brought my mechanic with me :happyshades:

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Actually a new car mostl certainly does. And the first 1000 k oil change is very important.

New engines are tight and everything wears a little in the first 1000k leaving minute metal deposits in the sump. If the oil is not changed these metal particles will grind your engine to pieces quite quickly.

If like my Delica you have an all aluminium engine then it is even more important.

If you do the regular oil changes as recommended by the manufacurers you engine will last much longer.

If you think it is not needed then expect to change or replace some engine parts way before 100000 ks.

 

From the day you buy and use the car the engine parts are wearing by a minute amount leaving tiny fragments of metal in the oil. If it is not changed rgular your engine will wear much quicker. Take it from someone who knows a lot about cars.

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Agree with snowdude. New cars need those first 2 oil changes fast.

 

I did first oil change after 200m, then 600m then 1000m... but I had a racing engine to break in.. regardless the same theory applies. New engines wear very fast and after the first 1000m it's mostly done and won't generally wont require anything outside of normal maintenance.

 

Congrats on the purchase. Sounds like dealers are the same world wide!

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Agree with snowdude. New cars need those first 2 oil changes fast.

 

I did first oil change after 200m, then 600m then 1000m... but I had a racing engine to break in.. regardless the same theory applies. New engines wear very fast and after the first 1000m it's mostly done and won't generally wont require anything outside of normal maintenance.

 

Congrats on the purchase. Sounds like dealers are the same world wide!

 

That's very close to the regimen I use with all my engines. And after the break in switch to synthetic.....except with the diesels which stay dino. I replaced the big end bearings in my cruiser's 4.2 1HD-T a while back and changed the oil at 100km and again at 1000kms and regular changes at 4000kms....(I'm anal). Not cheap with a 10L sump....but....

 

Also, watch out for long sessions of idling or even long periods at the same rpm...like on cruise control.

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Agree with snowdude. New cars need those first 2 oil changes fast.

 

I did first oil change after 200m, then 600m then 1000m... but I had a racing engine to break in.. regardless the same theory applies. New engines wear very fast and after the first 1000m it's mostly done and won't generally wont require anything outside of normal maintenance.

 

Congrats on the purchase. Sounds like dealers are the same world wide!

 

That's very close to the regimen I use with all my engines. And after the break in switch to synthetic.....except with the diesels which stay dino. I replaced the big end bearings in my cruiser's 4.2 1HD-T a while back and changed the oil at 100km and again at 1000kms and regular changes at 4000kms....(I'm anal). Not cheap with a 10L sump....but....

 

Also, watch out for long sessions of idling or even long periods at the same rpm...like on cruise control.

 

Definitely during break in!

 

I forgot to mention the switch from dino to synthetic after 1000mi, but I did that as well. Chriselle knows whats going on!

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Yes good point Chriselle I forgot to mention that.

Never keep a new engine at the same speed all the time they need a variaton.

Dont over rev a new engine and never labour an engine not a problem with automatics of course.

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I appreciate the advice but it all really depends, doesn't it? For example, Honda uses a special break in oil that shouldn't be changed for at least the first 4500kms.

 

Would you go for the 5 oil changes for 115,000Y?

 

I'm definitely planning on doing oil changes as recommended by the manufacturers, which is every 8000kms(max) until the 56,000kms and then every 16,000kms after that (I'll probably do it a little more often than that though). The car dealer certainly wasn't telling me what the recommendation was and admitted as much when I asked him about it. Also, any metal particles that are big enough to do any damage to your engine are taken out by the oil filter.

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I appreciate the advice but it all really depends, doesn't it? Would you go for the 5 oil changes for 115,000Y?

 

Honda uses a special break in oil that shouldn't be changed for at least the first 4500kms. I'm definitely planning on doing oil changes as recommended by the manufacturers, which is every 8000kms(max) until the 56,000kms and then every 16,000kms after that (I'll probably do it a little more often than that though). The car dealer certainly wasn't telling me what the recommendation was and admitted as much when I asked him about it. Also, any metal particles that are big enough to do any damage to your engine are taken out by the oil filter.

 

Definitely wouldn't opt for the shaken deal. Pocket that 115k for something else. Though because it's a new car, you'd want to stick to the recommended procedures to get that warranty service.. I bought my car knowing I was voiding it almost immediately, but most people don't do that.

 

Good point about the filter, be sure to change that each time too!

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I went for the 3 year service pack when I bought my car it only cost 35000 yen and that includes wiper blade replacememt oil filter and oil change and a few other odd bits every six months service all for 35000. My car had its first shaken in December and I paid 35000 again for anothet 3 years.

I think your dealer is trying to rip you off witj that price if that is just for oil and filter changes.

Having said that one oil change even if I bought the oil and filter and did it myself will be close to 10000 yen per time. Aluminium engines have to have a special oil in them which costs more.

So yeah I reckon your better off doing the oil change yourself or take the car to autobacs if you dont want the hassle of getting rid of the used oil after.

Dont miss the regular services if you want to keep your full warranty.

They will use that as an excuse not to repair your car for free should something go wrong.

 

 

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