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While shopping for a new jacket I ended up getting a board, bindings, goggles, pants and jacket... now I have to try and hide the credit card bill from my wife because the world didn't end today like

The bag inspires an old joke to come to mind   Princess Diana and Dolly Parton had both died on the same night. When they reached the gates of Heaven they were greeted by St. Peter.St. Peter said "E

New skis & bindings awaiting xmas pickup & testing in Rockies first week of January.

New goggles for me.. My Oakley Ducati's are getting a bit scratched up after 5 years (6 snow trips) and I don't think they make replacement lenses for them anymore. Probably will go Dragon APX's.

 

Other than that, new boots. My Salomons are tired after 6 years, so I'll get a new pair of them.

 

I've already bought a new jacket and pants from Rakuten. It was cheaper to buy there and get it shipped over.

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well I bought 2 new boards last season, one at the start and 1 at the end so I'm sweet for boards........bindings are on my radar. My 2nd hand FLOWS finally bit the dust at the end of last season and I switched to my back up Burton Cartel's (after swearing I'd never go back to ratchet's) but surprisingly actually really enjoyed them. I really like the FLOWs tho and their new bindings for this year are ticking all the right boxes for me......easy to get in and now quick release if I get stuck in pow. I've also been a good boy and cleared my credit card.......its now burning a red hot hole in my pocket and I think I may just have to run up a small bill on it for new bindings.

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yeah......I'm gonna hold off till closer to the start of the season and see if prices come down a bit.....card is burning a hole in the pocket (as I said) but trying to be sensible about things

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Splitboard and bindings for me. Also a few rolls of tape for my heel blisters induced by skinning!

I have already purchased snowshoes, 3 piece poles, beacon, probe, shovel, 50l backpack, down jacket, down pants and down booties for the cold nights.

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which bindings did you go for? Sparks or kara... krar... kararakr... the ones i cant spell? Or just unions :p

Also, kinda genuinely surprised you didnt just DIY split... or did you?

 

PS. PRICES. I think its your solemn duty to cheer everyone else up with just how little they (likely) spent compared to you.

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which bindings did you go for? Sparks or kara... krar... kararakr... the ones i cant spell? Or just unions :p

Also, kinda genuinely surprised you didnt just DIY split... or did you?

 

PS. PRICES. I think its your solemn duty to cheer everyone else up with just how little they (likely) spent compared to you.

Not a fan of karakoram due to the carbon highbacks. I have just destroyed my second carbon highback on my burton diodes and I know I will destroy more, I will never buy a binding with a carbon highback again as its just not durable enough for use in snowboarding.

I rode the voile light rails on the weekend and found them to work well but I was getting pressure points on my toes from the toe strap so I think I will be going for the spark burner LT. Actually after using the voile puck system I am quite happy with it, I expected it to be more of a headache but it wasnt.

Dual hight heel risers are a must for anyone getting into splitting.

 

I have spent about AU$1400 on all the gear I mentioned above which is around JPY112,000.

 

As for the splitboard I am actually making the whole thing from scratch but I didnt want to bore folks with the details of that lol.

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Ok call the threadjacker police lol.

 

Basically I have been slowly going about building my own boards purely for my own satisfaction because I cannot buy exactly what I want off the shelf. I enquired about having my design built for me and it was extremely cost prohibitive so I decided I would do it myself, and I will.

I am about half way through the process in that I have drawn up the design, had my template cnc profiled, laminated and prepared 10 core blanks, routed trenches for urethane sidewall pouring, made the core profiling bed (this is thicknessing of the core basically). I still need to build my press and buy the base material, inserts, steel edges, top sheets, fibreglass and resin.

I was hoping to have one built before the end of our season here in oz but that just didnt/wont happen, time gets away you know.

 

Anyway here is a cut/paste of a post I made on snowboard forums in a thread about powder boards for big guys.

 

 

Firstly for the guys who scoff at anything over 160. You simply dont understand what its like as a big guy trying to float on powder. In a way you guys are lucky, it all happens much easier for you.

There is a real need for big (170+) powder boards, there isnt much available any more, those that are have already been covered but my personal fav for an off the shelf board would be prior. They have some great boards available.

I have designed my own board for these excact conditions so I will run through some of my thoughts and reasoning, all of which has come from my experience riding big boards and deep powder. I am not a board design god by any means but I have worked out what works and what doesnt for the type of riding I do, you can see my vids in the link below riding my supermodel 172 swallowtail in some tight trees.

 

As for the design side of things my personal preference is minimal taper, camber with an early rise rocker nose, big stance setback and swallowtail.

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This is how I break down board design.

Sidecut radius.

Choose your fave for carving and be done with it. Your waist width will also be set at this point.

 

Taper.

Too much taper is a negative influence on carving. Keep it mellow, you dont need taper for float if you use some of the ideas below.

 

Stance setback.

Stance setback is in relation to the side cut only, the nose and tail dont come into play here. Personally I can go 100mm setback and still be able to carve the board, most others will probably want less but have probably never tried so much setback as most boards wont get you near 100mm.

 

Nose and tail length.

Ok so you want a big rocker nose with a very gradual up turn. On my board I made the nose 340mm long. The tail length is 100mm.

The differential in nose-tail length gives you a much larger surface area in front than behind. Its giving you setback performance in powder but your stance is still in the centre of your sidecut radius (100mm back in my case) so you can carve like normal.

 

Swallowtail.

For me a swallowtail is a no brainer, if you dont have one you are giving up much of the ability to be able to control your big board much like a smaller board.

A swallowtail is decreasing the boards surface area behind the rear foot which lets the tail sink and the nose rise. Rear leg burn is eliminated in deep snow. The surprising thing about a swallowtail is the control it gives you from the back foot, I have tried to explain this many times and the only word that comes close to describing the feeling is agility.

The swallowtail makes your big board feel agile and nimble and increases your confidence level to a point where you feel like there isnt a tree in the world you cant dodge even at mach 1 speeds. If you have not tried one in deep snow you just arent living IMO.

 

Camber.

I am a traditional camber lover for carving, you just cant beat it and yes I own a neversummer but still prefer plain old normal camber. It rails so hard and gives so much confidence on piste that I can not live without it. On my camber mould I made it so the camber sections are the same length from centre of binding to the tail and centre of binding out in front. I am directly in the centre of my camber section.

With the camber sorted out you can now use the rest of the length out front to create a very gradual nose rise much like a surfboard or speedboat hull. This is key to getting excellent float and is something you will notice my supermodel lacks in the vids in my sig.

Another interesting concept is the camber/taper relationship. By having an early rise nose in relation to the sidecut radius you can effectively eliminate the negative influence that taper has on carving as the portion of nose that is wider than the tail is now lifted up off the snow and is not really part of the effective edge any more.

 

Stiffness.

Stiffness is very personal, I like a moderately stiff board with a softer (thinner core) section between the bindings so I can flex the front of the board into the next turn.

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This is my board all drawn up, please excuse the poor image quality (screen shot)

snowboardcompletechop.jpg

And this is it CNC profiled, this is to be used as my template for building the board.

IMG_2949.jpg

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Looks sweet!

 

I would crank up the stiffness. With that huge setback and the big nose, you may get an ungodly amount of vibration while carving on hardpack. If you are a big guy, you should not have much problems flexing a stiffer board.

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All my stuff was either bought last year or the year before with the exception of my boots, but I reckon they will do another year.

I guess a helmet will have to be on my to buy list this year.

Got to buy everything for my daughter though as she has out grown everything,

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