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I guess the bit I dont really agree with is the "surfer has a god given right to the waves over the jet skier."

Is there a scale of man made stuff used for sport to right to natural resources we can refer to?

if so do body surfers have an advantage over bodyboarders/surfers who use unnatural materiels to aid them.

Does a naked bodysurfer beat one in a wetsuit?

 

Yes I'd be bummed if all the pow was raped before I get to it but I dont think I have the right to get angry about it or think I have more right to it than someone who beat me to it. Im with Ray, first in first served.

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>surfer has a god given right to the waves over the jet skier

 

That is surfer arrogance, somewhat toungue in cheek. Most surfers believe that they have right to the waves over ANYONE in the water. This is obviously wrong. Ray originally pointed this out and I agree with him. I have to admit that as irrational as it may sound, a small part of me feels that a surfer surfing a wave will get more joy from that act than any other person doing any other thing with a wave. There is a daggy old marketing logo for some surf brand... "only a surfer knows the feeling"... it is kind of true in a silly kind of way.

 

As for body surfing, there is no more natural way to intereact with a waves energy. When the surf was bad and the water warm (hence no wetsuit to add unwanted boyancy) I would often take my flippers andswimming goggles and go bodysurfing. In fact, there is a pocket of energy in a wave that is amazing. Well before the wave is close to breaking, when it is still a swell. The pocket of energy is about 2 feet under the water on the front side of the wave. The best way to get into it is to duck under the swell as it passes over you and then kick like hell so that you head back into the wave from underneath it. Then kick like hell and hope to tap the energy. You can travel with the wave until it breaks, or your breath runs out. Now this will sound corny, but I have down this with dolphins many many times. It is the same pocket of energy that they are riding when it looks like they are just gliding under the water with the wave. I have been in the water with the dolphins doing this and they interact with you, they litereally look you in the eye. You look back and they will hold the eye contact. It is with out doubt that these experiences with these amazing mamals in the raw ocean will stay with me until I die. So yes, in a way you are right, the body surfer is more in tune with the environment, and yes, I would be even more dissapointed if I lost the opportunity to have this experience due to 'other crafts' using the waves.

 

First in first served - a logical truth.

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dolphins are cool...

 

db - if you have some time this summer, please come spend a weekend with me and my toys. We'd be out on the lake, which is good, cause riding a stand up is tough enough without having to worry about waves too. I swear I get more water up my nose riding it (falling off actually) than I did when I was surfing all the time. I'm serious about the offer - bring your board too cause there are some pretty good waves around here, especially if a typhoon passes waaay off shore.

 

K - the Pepsi is my favorite. Very fast - over 120kph with accelleration that will dislocate your arms if you're not ready for it - 0-100k in 3.9 secs. I got it from Dustin Farthing last July. You're welcome to come up this summer as well (kinda anybody actually - if you're willing to make the trip)

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What the dolphin is actually doing db is 'dogging you up', and trying to shame you into realizing that he got there first, is unencumbered by any plastic crap made in Taiwan, is enjoying himself in a more natural way than you are, and is hoping that you'll sod off and go walk upright on some hot pavement like your kind is supposed to do.

 

I do see the justice of your argument though...

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"Only a surfer knows the feeling" is the logo used by "Billabong". While a little w@nky - it is spot on. There isn't much that compares to being out int he surf by yourself - even if the waves aren't that great. I (and i dont think im alone here) think it is one of the most soulful things. I think thats what makes surfers feel like they have "rights" to the waves - its the whole soul feeling through out the sport.

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SBF - you are right. bobbing in the salt water ripples on the edge of an oceans depths and expanse certainly has special feelings and moments.

 

O11 - that is the best post I have read since I joined! \:D

 

Ray - thanks for the offer, I may well have a car and be on the road with my boards by summer. As for jetskiing...hmmm... lucky you said in a lake, I doubt I could live with myself if I rode one in the ocean ;\)

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It doesn't really matter anyway, you should head to Oz, The Gold Coast, staying near the currumbin/kirra/snapper rocks area.

 

There are better places at that time of the world, but the Gold Coast (excluding Surfers Paradise - the most poorly named crap hole in Australia) is just a fantastic area for surfing. I would happily spend the rest of my life there.

 

I reckon you might also enjoy Byron Bay. One of the most visually stunning pieces of land in the world, but it has its downsides. Byron is within 60mins of the Gold Coast anyway.

 

Or, if you want party (plenty of it available) and surf, Head to sydney. Finally if you are up for it, you could head to the Great Ocean Road in south west Victoria. Plenty of big, powerful heavy surf. I used to spent 6 weeks there each year, and broke at least 2 boards each visit for a few years running. Best to practice holding your breath before going - it is Australia's North Shore Hawaii, but no where near the raw power and size. The ocean road isn't always big, but if you want it then it is there.

 

If you want to get a little international, south coast France and north Spain are great, but i don't know how they are at that time of year.

 

You have an enviable decision to make. I wish I were you.

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Well said db.

A big part of the buzz of surfing for me is not just the adrenaline rush of riding good waves, but the spirtituality of the experience; the look and feel of glassy offshore waves, the effort and knowledge it takes to be at the right spot at the right time, and sounds of the waves and the hoots of you and your mates as you get barreled of your head (if you a lucky). The noise pollution of jet skis just ruins the whole aesthetic experience (hope I'm not sounding too much like a big hippy). It's like doing a really hard but beautiful satisfying hike/bushwalk, only to have someone buzz over your head in a helicopter.

 

By the way db, do you remember Captain Goodvibes (tracks cartoon character) a mate reminded me of him last night, thinking of changing my handle now. Total legend!

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I don't know, maybe it was cause I was only 10 when I started surfing (kids don't think/appreciate, they just do it), but for me, it was always the rush, especially when big waves came and I caught them instead of going over the falls. No thought process either - the waves always broke in the same spots so there was no thinking about being "in the right place", you just went.

 

Wave jumping on a jet ski is a pretty big rush too - Like taking a big jump on a motocross bike but with a much softer landing. Keep in mind, that you don't have to have a surfable wave to be able to jump it. In Okinawa, typhoons stir up some pretty big waves but most of the shoreline is barrier reef or cliff so there are only a few spots where you can actually surf more than 3 seconds. But there are lots of places to get good air on a jet ski...

 

Except for jumping out of a perfectly good airplane 3 times, nothing has ever topped the adrenaline and feeling of surfing on a nice wave though...

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Captain Good Vibes - what a blast, he was a legend. I had forgotten all about him! cool!!

 

This has bought back some memories. remember the band from tracks "RJ Keg and the Frothies". They wrote some great surf classics such as "your such a spunk when I'm blind drunk" and "beer was made so you could have a sex life too". Classy act.

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 Quote:
Originally posted by db:

You have an enviable decision to make. I wish I were you.
Well I don't want to get too far ahead of myself. I have never been on a surfboard. Nor do I have any idea where I will be next Sept. Just always wanted to learn how to surf - I love the water and I love to snowboard, so it seems natural. Reading all this coupled with conversations I have recently had with some aussie guys has just put ideas in my head. Sydney sounds like a pretty dope place though. I'd like to check it out.
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Just saw the 80s classic surf film "Kong's Island"! What a laugh. Some great surfing and acts of stupidity by rabbit and kong himself. Wonder if the pro surfers of today would be up for the same sort of stupid acting to be caught on film?

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Ender, you should see some classic old Australian surf movies. Bruce Brown's "Endless Summer" movies are good but the Australian ones take in a bit more of the Australian humour! The modern surf films seem to be less humorous and a lot more serious but the surfing has certainly improved over the years with lighter boards, wetsuits and leashes.

 

Just got back from a wave at a certain sydney beach and have to say that the clubbies were zooming round on that RIB (rubber inflatable boat) thing very unnecessarily thus creating a lot of unwelcome noise and petrol fumes. There was enough idiots on surfboards out there... we didn't need the supposed "surf lifesavers" to bring their rubber ducky out and just play with it out past the break. Give it a rest will ya!

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ender - if you are learning then that makes the choice easy.

 

Sydney -

for central city entertainment plus access to consistent but not the best surf, go to Bondi. People love it hate it. I lived there for years. The english backpackers can be a bit on the nose, but there is a lot of fun to be had in Sydneys Eastern Suburbs.

 

For better surf, and a different type of community, go to Sydney's northern beaches. Dee Why is a pretty good start. Transport is not so good up there though. You can also try Manly Beach - I dont like the community there very much, but you wont get bored.

 

Gold Coast -

pure surfing. Lots and lots of very nice girls and warm water. Tons of surf, cheap living. All you need is a pair of board shorts.

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Are you a manly boy s_f? I suppose you use hot-mail too.

 

Seriously though, you guys are really making me want to go learn to surf in Australia. Does it go off year round or is it a seasonal thing? Easy to find a place to live? How do prices compare with Japan?

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