muikabochi 208 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 So I made it to Hakuba on one of those stunning blue sky days. Here's a bit of words and all the photos from my two days there this week: Hakuba Goryu & Hakuba 47 http://www.snowjapan...-february-2012/ Happo-one http://www.snowjapan...-february-2012/ I though I would write down my thoughts on Hakuba in general, and inevitably I will be comparing things to the region where I live - Minamiuonuma in Niigata-ken. I was happy to arrive in Hakuba and see those blue skies. And as always, that first view of those mountains is always exciting. The mountain backdrop that Hakuba enjoys is truly stunning, breathtaking.... it's just on a whole bigger scale than where I live. These are big, impressive mountains. Minamiuonuma is certainly very beautiful, but there is a really different feel to it - more compact and on a smaller scale, but also in a way more variation I suppose. Hakuba has that backdrop, but as totally stunning and huge as it is.... that's kind of it. But how can anyone not be blown away by this? I was almost giddy with excitement taking literally hundreds of shots on Monday. On a day like Monday, you'd be hard pushed to take poor photos given the beauty nature has provided and the weather conditions. I was in Hakuba for Tuesday as well but spend most of that actually skiing. So Monday morning early on I was at Goryu and I enjoyed that most. It was quiet early on, and I got in some skiing while I waited for the few clouds to move on from the mountain peaks. The snow was best up there as well. Down on the lower slopes of 47 it was.... hard-packed icy and noisily crusty. As a ski-jo as well I think (the top area of) Goryu and 47 is my favorite and probably the one I would go back to before others. In the afternoon I went to Happo. Simply stunning surroundings going up on the lifts there (I went up on the left hand side of the mountain, whatever that is called... Nakiyama?) I almost wanted the top few quad lifts to go slower as I was just taking in the beauty of it all. I can't say I'm that keen on Happo as a skijo though. There's just too many bumps. And honestly, the snow wasn't all that much good either really. The mountain is big, but I'm not sure that big is altogether better. I think I actually prefer more compact places - though obviously not tiny places - a good medium sized kind of place is probably best. A few general observations: We seem to get much more snow in Minamiuonuma than Hakuba (town levels), more on that here: http://www.snowjapan...achi-to-hakuba/ Snow conditions are comparable. I was skiing on Sunday in Minamiuonuma and the snow was certainly no better in Hakuba than at home. In fact, the four times that I have been to Hakuba, I have never come home feeling envious of snow conditions. Minamiuonuma and Yuzawa provide the goods just as good I reckon. Tons more foreigners in Hakuba than in Minamiuonuma. Loads. You can ski in some resorts in Minamiuonuma for a day and not see another gaijin and even at the more famous places the numbers are way less. I'm cool with that and not sure I want a big marketing machine to come here and make us the same (though I would be happy for the skijo getting guests of course). I felt like I was hearing English as much as Japanese and there's definitely a more 'I'm in Japan' feel to Minamiuonuma. Some people will like that, some won't. Let's taking your choicing! I was initially sad to see the reindeer have gone. But on hearing that they were getting stressed out and it wasn't good for them, definitely the right thing to do and glad they are apparently now in a more appropriate place. What else? Hmmm. I think that's it. Hakuba certainly has that big mountain feel and is definitely a different flavour from where I am in Niigata. For stunning scenery, it's right up there - one of my faves alongside Tenjindaira and Zao. Most definitely worth a visit and experiencing. I want to go once a year, but I really think once is enough for me. Possible hometown bias aside, I'm more than happy being based where I am. I think there's more variation here, we get great snow and we also get more mad amounts of snow, which is also fun. And.... it's my home. Link to post Share on other sites
RobBright 35 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 "I think there's more variation here and we do get more mad amounts of snow which is also fun." For me, that's why I prefer Yuzawa. There are about 20 resorts within reasonable distance from the station, let alone hotels. Link to post Share on other sites
Mick Rich 78 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I guess home is where the heart is! However, I live in neither so am looking forward to checking out both Goryu/47 and the Yuzawa resorts in the new few weeks! Link to post Share on other sites
sanjo 2 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Very interesting muika. Good an unbiased as ever. Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Interesting observations. I wish I could compare mountains and snow but around here the only things with snow on it is Mt. Fuji. Everything else is green or brown in the winter. Cheers again for the photos. Link to post Share on other sites
Nisoko 6 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Thanks for that muikabochi, interested to hear these thoughts. Link to post Share on other sites
Hokkaidough 4 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes thanks for that. (Reindeer?) Link to post Share on other sites
ippy 66 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Aside the very first day i was there, ive never really enjoyed happo. Saying that ive only been three times (and the third time wa sthe start of my second season and they shut the gondola down because of the wind). Id still pick goryu/47 over it any day though. It just feels more intimate. I also think R1 gives it something really zingy and snappy to hit up. Finally, i love that the goryu side does feel really different from 47... also, escal plaza is pretty neat. Oh! and that steep on iimori is comedy for hidden mountains masquerading as moguls smacking the bejeesus out of the unwary. Link to post Share on other sites
muikabochi 208 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes they do feel different don't they - must admit I didn't spend much time on the lower slopes of Goryu though as it didn't seem very interesting. Liked the top bits. No doubt I would like 47 more when there was fresh snow as well, as I like long cruising kind of courses. As it was, I felt my legs doing too much shock-absorbing work! And they are still complaining today Link to post Share on other sites
ippy 66 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 dont underestimate the red runs on iimori. Ive seen a LOT of people come a cropper on them. When it starts getting a bit cruddy it swiftly moves to black/double black territory. (qualifier 2: the last time i was at goryu was about days 3-8 of season 3 so maybe its rubbish now). Link to post Share on other sites
NoFakie 45 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes thanks for that. (Reindeer?) Somebody kept some for a few years in an old conbeni and a small paddock in the car park outside. Another example of typical Japanese manufactured-gimmick based tourism, I suppose. Personally I don't think Hakuba makes enough of the alpine scenery. Japan is 70% yama, but mountains that go above tree line are qualitatively different in my opinion. Especially since mountains below tree line and near a town or village are usually scarred with conifer plantations (lower down in Hakuba included) or worse (excavation etc.) Link to post Share on other sites
muikabochi 208 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 What do you mean by 'not making enough of' there MrWiggles? Link to post Share on other sites
Alexander L 80 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Snow conditions are comparable. I was skiing on Sunday in Minamiuonuma and the snow was certainly no better in Hakuba than at home. In fact, the four times that I have been to Hakuba, I have never come home feeling envious of snow conditions. Curious that. Any time during a season, some place would have none, some, lots, puked on snow etc. So after a freshie surely the snow is comparable. I met a few old couples in Hokkaido coupla weeks back. I asked them where they lived and got Tokyo back. They were veteran skiers and had about 50 years skiing each. So why not ski on Honshu? places like Naeba, Hakuba etc..... Reply: "Snow better in Hokkaido". surely not. But anyway, I said see you at dinner and at dinner they said see you next year. OK. Link to post Share on other sites
muikabochi 208 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Don't know what you are getting at there, thursday. I was simply comparing the snow quality in my area with that Hakuba - on consecutive days in this case, and in the three other times that I have been skiing in Hakuba. That's all. Link to post Share on other sites
kkk 7 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Interesting to me that your place gets more snow. Isn't Hakuba @ 700m or so? And what about Minamiuonuma, about 300m? Link to post Share on other sites
Chriselle 158 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Location is everything. Cortina is just down the road from Hakuba and look at it's snowfall. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
muikabochi 208 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 For sure, but I have never been to Cortina and so can't comment on that. Link to post Share on other sites
Chriselle 158 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Ya..every year is different and your perspective changes with what weather you experience on your visits. For example, this year at Hakuba I didn't see any epic dumps and I DID see a lot of wind. Even last Saturday I looked up to the skies and shouted WTF is up with all the wind...It died down soon after..so, somebody heard me.. My previous two weekends had been completely blown out. Also, with all the epic snow talk on the news in Niigata .... Hakuba felt like..meh, pretty average snowfall by my estimation. Not bad but not great either. Link to post Share on other sites
Thundercat 60 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I have to agree with that. I was very surprised at how localized some of the snowfall has been this season in places like Hakuba and Myoko Kogen. Resorts that are almost next to each other getting vastly different amounts. So far this season has been a bit like chasing waves... it seems that more variables are involved in getting the goods (at least for the places I like to board). Link to post Share on other sites
ippy 66 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 im going with a numata thesis here. The snow line is like a tidal force, and numata seems to be its beach. I reckon someone out there could have drawn a map of honshu over the last months with the high watermarks and conentrations of snow and see that hakuba is just at the cusp of the beachy head whereas nozawa is pushing way further in. Ive barely seen a inch of snow in saitama all year and i never saw snow at hamamatsu. ETA: Ippy is learning about weather as if he was a 7 year old and this was a time of majik and dragons. Link to post Share on other sites
grungy-gonads 54 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Saitama doesn't usually get anything other than an odd bit here or there though? Link to post Share on other sites
Chriselle 158 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 im going with a numata thesis here. The snow line is like a tidal force, and numata seems to be its beach. I reckon someone out there could have drawn a map of honshu over the last months with the high watermarks and conentrations of snow and see that hakuba is just at the cusp of the beachy head whereas nozawa is pushing way further in. Ive barely seen a inch of snow in saitama all year and i never saw snow at hamamatsu. ETA: Ippy is learning about weather as if he was a 7 year old and this was a time of majik and dragons. Ippy's talking like a Newfie with all the deep mariner analogies.. Link to post Share on other sites
ippy 66 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 These are the observations i had when i forgot my ipod and was stuck inside the idiot world that is my own thoughs for three hours on the local train to yuzawa. (the other two being: 1. your front teeth are just like all your other teeth in that they have very slight gaps between the front and the back of them - discovered whilst wondering why your front teeth are so good at fine tuning yoru nail biting). And 2. a kind of magic by queen MAYBE is the greatest queen album of all time and i need it on my absent ipod.) A study needs to be done on snow as a tidal force though Link to post Share on other sites
muikabochi 208 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 I have to agree with that. I was very surprised at how localized some of the snowfall has been this season in places like Hakuba and Myoko Kogen. Resorts that are almost next to each other getting vastly different amounts. So far this season has been a bit like chasing waves... it seems that more variables are involved in getting the goods (at least for the places I like to board). Interesting that. I feel round these parts it has been as consistent as usual. By that I mean all places in the same region got about the same at the same time. Link to post Share on other sites
634-maru 4 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Interesting to hear that. I'm living in Nagaoka in Niigata just to the north of you. Haven't been to Hakuba or anywhere over in Nagano yet just here in Niigata - Yuzawa and Myoko areas. Link to post Share on other sites
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