dyna8800 3 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Waterproofing clothes with the wax iron, now why didn't I think of that!?! P.S. Also have a huge brick of wax if you need some. Link to post Share on other sites
jblesener 1 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Waxes for colder conditions are harder than waxes for warmer conditions. Apparently the colder snow crystals are much harder/sharper and can scrape wax off much faster. I always use the plain white all temp wax. If you're regularly waxing, I think you're already ahead of the curve; I'll leave the flourinated graphite-injected 2 degree temperature range waxes to the pros. If I get some gunk like pine resin or just plain dirt in my base, I prefer to hotscrape rather than use wax remover/base cleaner. Just do a hot wax and scrape it off while molten. If you use a plexiglas scraper, you can get a little tool to sharpen up the edges (of the scraper) rather than getting a new one. I find it also helps to flip the scraper edges while waxing every 10 passes or so, then sharpen after you hit all the edges. Link to post Share on other sites
norcal 5 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Waxes for colder conditions are harder than waxes for warmer conditions. Apparently the colder snow crystals are much harder/sharper and can scrape wax off much faster. I always use the plain white all temp wax. If you're regularly waxing, I think you're already ahead of the curve; I'll leave the flourinated graphite-injected 2 degree temperature range waxes to the pros. If I get some gunk like pine resin or just plain dirt in my base, I prefer to hotscrape rather than use wax remover/base cleaner. Just do a hot wax and scrape it off while molten. If you use a plexiglas scraper, you can get a little tool to sharpen up the edges (of the scraper) rather than getting a new one. I find it also helps to flip the scraper edges while waxing every 10 passes or so, then sharpen after you hit all the edges. When you hotwax, do you iron the wax into the board, then scrape or do it a section at a time? Also, if there are bubles/cracks in my wax after/during a boarding day, what does that mean I did wrong? Link to post Share on other sites
RobBright 35 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Cheers for all the great, positive advice so far! Will report back in a few weeks on how it goes. Link to post Share on other sites
snowdude 44 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Waxes for colder conditions are harder than waxes for warmer conditions. Apparently the colder snow crystals are much harder/sharper and can scrape wax off much faster. I always use the plain white all temp wax. If you're regularly waxing, I think you're already ahead of the curve; I'll leave the flourinated graphite-injected 2 degree temperature range waxes to the pros. If I get some gunk like pine resin or just plain dirt in my base, I prefer to hotscrape rather than use wax remover/base cleaner. Just do a hot wax and scrape it off while molten. If you use a plexiglas scraper, you can get a little tool to sharpen up the edges (of the scraper) rather than getting a new one. I find it also helps to flip the scraper edges while waxing every 10 passes or so, then sharpen after you hit all the edges. Yep certainly need a harder wax in this area, with day and night time temps at the resorts same as Hokkaido and snow often frozen hard, I don't think any wax will last more than a day. Link to post Share on other sites
Jynxx 4 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 That´s why you use tube wax during the day. Base wax treatment is for lifting out the grime, give a wax prepared anchore for the running wax layer to go on. In the old days when I used to race, the magic was to put super thin layers on top of each layer so the wax and snow temp corresponded with each run. The point is - the wax is not going to last for more than a hour and half.. Can´t be bothered doing it that often, so I usually put tube wax when I have a lunch break. Norcal, melt the wax against your iron and gribble it across the board, Then put the iron against the board and melt and spread. Don´t do it too long at one spot. It doesn´t have to be thick and even. You scrape whatever comes off anyways, and with itcomes out the ingrained dirt and grime (otherwise becomes friction between surfaces) Bubbles and cracks ? Never had that problem. You probably haven´t scraped it all off. Todays´s sintered (zeolite) surface is so good compared to the old days, you hardly need wax. I just like to give it a better surface (reducing friction co-eff) Link to post Share on other sites
dyna8800 3 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 When you hotwax, do you iron the wax into the board, then scrape or do it a section at a time? Also, if there are bubles/cracks in my wax after/during a boarding day, what does that mean I did wrong? Iron the wax onto the board, then scrape the whole board, don't do it a section at a time. If you have any remaining wax layer on the board, that means that you have not scraped enough. You actually want to get the wax into the pores of the base. Scrape until all the layer of wax is off, then use brush it in. There are various opinions of which type of brush to use, horsehair, nylon, etc. Also, I like to finish with an antistatic cloth. Link to post Share on other sites
HelperElfMissy 42 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 That´s why you use tube wax during the day.Base wax treatment is for lifting out the grime, give a wax prepared anchore for the running wax layer to go on. In the old days when I used to race, the magic was to put super thin layers on top of each layer so the wax and snow temp corresponded with each run. The point is - the wax is not going to last for more than a hour and half.. Can´t be bothered doing it that often, so I usually put tube wax when I have a lunch break. Norcal, melt the wax against your iron and gribble it across the board, Then put the iron against the board and melt and spread. Don´t do it too long at one spot. It doesn´t have to be thick and even. You scrape whatever comes off anyways, and with itcomes out the ingrained dirt and grime (otherwise becomes friction between surfaces) Bubbles and cracks ? Never had that problem. You probably haven´t scraped it all off. Todays´s sintered (zeolite) surface is so good compared to the old days, you hardly need wax. I just like to give it a better surface (reducing friction co-eff) D'ya reckon the sintered bases are better Jynxx?? I have found my Burton Troop pretty high maintenance. Just had it waxed and edged for the 2nd time, after arriving ready to ride, and we're less than 3 weeks down the track. Yes....it has been pretty hard packed over the last week, at times icy as. But day before yesterday she was gripping the piste like Velcro, and the edges had not much hold at all. Today she rode like a dream all freshly waxed and edged. I recall one particularly icy trip to Thredbo when I got the edges done for a 2nd time within 24 hrs...that was nasty. My sweet shny edges looked like the metal bit on a sticky tape dispenser by days end. It is times like that you can really see the value in DIY!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Jynxx 4 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Mamabear, that depends on what you mean by better. They say, sintered bases are high maintenance ... but I haven´t really found that it is, or what it means by that statement. It´s a hard wearing surface and takes hits well, it doesn´t get damaged easily unless you land on a rock. But I do find that it is harder to fix up dings and gouges. I use carbon added flakes over the damaged area, put Al-foil over it and hot iron. So if I have to do that a lot, then it´s a hassle. Luckily, I don´t have to do it often. Some bases are easier to fix than others. These are softer base. Just light up the P-tex candle and metal scraper will do it. Easier job but I end up doing it a lot. Run over a small pebble, wood, and you get gouges. So that to me is high maintenance. As for sliding, yes, sintered base especially with zeolite or carbon added really goes... The excluded base, I can´t say if I had really ridden one, unless my Santa Cruz TT is one? But that has dimples that´s meant to make it slide better .. but that´s another story. Anyways, I think it helps more if you do have wax on it. Our old Rome Vinyl soaks up a lot of wax. I don´t know if it came with wax on it from the shop/factory , but I thought it was a quick board. After waxing, it really made a difference. The Salomon Burner goes and doesn´t take up much wax. The Atomic is fast but no way faster than the Burner. I really have to flat ride my board to catch up with my wife when she rides it. The Atomic doesn´t soak up much either. Again, when I say wax, it is just tube wax. It does make a huge difference when the snow is wet, heavy. sticky. We do, every time we go out, put tube wax on it and rub with a rag to get the excess off and make it smooth (with Toko tube wax). Link to post Share on other sites
Jynxx 4 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Talking about DIY on your board. Just carry a diamond file or stone with you. Don´t use a metal file if you don´t have to. What I mean is that metal files are for getting the rough bumped metal off your edges. They are not for making the edges sharp. And you only use Very Fine files to do this. When you have metal bits that peeled and you can feel it running your fingers, you use files. The thing is you don´t want to shave off and reduce that mass of your edges. If you lose a mm or two of the base by running over a rock, I wouldn´t worry too much. For day to day, the best one to use is diamond files. Just trust your senses and run it flat on the base edge. I try not to run it along the side. Hopefully, your edge is close to 1 degree or 2 degree depending on the board, how it came with, and maybe once a year or two years, You would take it to a shop where they have the machine that does the base grind and edges back to factory finish. Link to post Share on other sites
stemik 14 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I wax 3 times a week. Usually 2 or 3 skis at a time. I sharpen the edges once a week. Ski wax is so overpriced and that is with a big discount. One important tip - keep the iron moving at all times! Link to post Share on other sites
lena1849 0 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Waxing yourself can be a way to save money... I did it back home when I had the space and time for the mess (and other people in the same house with waxing demands). However, keep an eye out for good deals in ski shops on or around the mountains. If you find a decent deal, it might be more convienient than getting the whole set up. Last time I was in Nozawa Onsen (Nagano), there was a rental shop just at the base of the Gondola. I had a wax and edge done for 1000yen (500 for each service). Although it was just a quick, do-it-while-you-wait job, it was a step up from rub-on wax, and -combined with the edge - it made a difference for that day and the next several weekends I went out. If you find the smaller rental shops right near the mountain, you can find quick deals like this. In Happone I got a hot wax for 2500 as well. It was completed within my lunch break. I usually just wait until the mountain, get there a little early and find a cheap shop. If no luck, there are always rub-on kits for emergencies. Link to post Share on other sites
Tubby Beaver 209 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 there's no way I'm waxing myself!! Link to post Share on other sites
norcal 5 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Anyone got any tips on how to look/feel and see if you've done a good wax job? Link to post Share on other sites
dyna8800 3 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Good reference is a video on skiwaxing101.com. After scraping, I prefer to use a nylon brush (not brass) followed by horsehair brush. Link to post Share on other sites
Jynxx 4 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I have a Toko brush. Half brass, half nylon. Creates wax dust, (use mask) so I don´t bother about brushes any more. Just need to keep the Acrylic scraper finely edged when scraping. Since I run a metal edge on my base when there are gouges, that takes off some wax, and I don´t do base wax with Iron unless I take off the wax to p- tex over the gouge. Small gouge that run along the length of the board, I don´t bother. Tip : If you don´t want to buy that stinking wax remover - Use pH neutral detergent with lemon juice or vinegar Link to post Share on other sites
chairmanoftheboard 0 Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Haven't read everything here but one of the best things I discovered wax-wise is to use the waxing papers that look like a big stiff Kleenex. Drip the wax onto the board off the iron (I found I use FAR less since using the paper) pop the paper onto the dripped wax and iron the wax through the paper. Once the wax begins to melt and the paper fills up with wax it's really easy to slowly drag the paper with the iron on top, across the board. You generally get a MUCH more even, thinner layer quicker and there's far less wax shaving gunk at the end too. Generally 2 papers will do the whole of a board.....skis even easier as the iron is generally at least as long as the width of the ski so it's one pull from one end to the other. Maybe just me but less direct iron/board contact gots to be good too, no? Link to post Share on other sites
snow_hippie2 0 Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Drip the wax onto the board off the iron (I found I use FAR less since using the paper) pop the paper onto the dripped wax and iron the wax through the paper. Once the wax begins to melt and the paper fills upS with wax it's really easy to slowly drag the paper with the iron on top, across the board. Just to make sure I understand you correctly, you're only dripping wax onto one area and then waxing the whole board with that? I use paper too because, as you say, there's less scraping to do after. I might try your method. Another way to save on wax, which I haven't tried, is re-use the scrapings. Re-melt them into a block or sprinkle on the base and put it in a hotbox, or a hairdryer might work if it doesn't blow them all away. One thing I can attest to for saving wax is, melt it a litte on the iron then draw the hot corner crayon-style onto the board instead of dripping. Another thing I haven't tried is, at the beginning of the season hot-scrape with base wax 3x to remove dirt, then more base wax and leave to cool, scrape, then do a layer of super cold (-15C) wax to hold in the base wax, then apply the correct temperature wax for each day you go riding. The idea is the super cold wax is also super strong, so it holds in you base wax for the whole season. Your riding wax is then only a thin layer on top, not wasted on quenching the thirst of the bibulous pores of the base. SUPER TIP is - find out if your skis/board base is sintered or extruded. If it's the latter you don't ever need to wax because it doesn't absorb the stuff and might even make you go slower. But I'll be waving goodbye to you as I fly past you on the cat tracks because my waxed sintered base is like a Ferrari to you extruded Micra. Link to post Share on other sites
chairmanoftheboard 0 Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 I'm holding the wax against the iron and moving it up and down over the board to get an evenly placed spotty trail. Paper/iron on that and drag around to melt/spread. Serves 1 reusing wax shavings also an excellent point > sprinkle onto board, paper on top and iron away. Link to post Share on other sites
Tubby Beaver 209 Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 SUPER ideas Link to post Share on other sites
alexeiw123 2 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 I understand that you should select your wax based on the snow temperature (different to ambient temperature) but not really sure on a good rule of thumb to use for picking snow temps. I guess the snow temp is usually a fair bit colder than ambient..? I've got Toko waxes, red and blue, and also some molybdenum base prep wax. Anyone know what snow temperatures to expect in Niseko? I was thinking of using the blue wax. not sure if I should use base prep first? or even base prep alone? it does says suitable for -10° to -30°C Link to post Share on other sites
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