Jump to content

TR: Mentawai Islands, Indonesia


Recommended Posts

earthquakes up here at the moment. had a big one yesterday arvo and watched waves surge up the beach and then drain out to sea. freaky and had us all on our toes.

been getting aftershocks for the last 24 hours, everything is moving around alot. japan crew might be used to earthquakes, but i ain't felt many this strong before. it's an odd feeling.

as i type this the whole house is rocking

 

oh yeah, unbelievable waves yesterday too:

 

570_1_200981715237.jpg

 

570_2_2009817152340.jpg

 

570_3_200981715241.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Spook

 

Who cares about the limp wrist if you are surfing waves like that you are a legend.

Although I will bag you if there are any photos of a poo shooter stance.

Mate where are the photos/surf camp.

My mates have just bought Indocean surf charters based in Lembongan so a trip is planned for next year.

PS big swell heading your way we had 4+ metres on the weekend here

 

Seemore

Link to post
Share on other sites

couple more pics for you boys. new swell tomorrow but conditions and crowd dodging is tricky at the moment. hope we get something good...

 

570_1_2009825121446.jpg

 

(i really like this one):

570_2_200982512150.jpg

 

570_3_2009825122138.jpg

 

570_4_200982512233.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

hey gang. some pics from last week, as promised.....

 

i almost lost my eye today as well. surfing sick bankvaults, and i kick off my first wave. my leggie went taut as my board pulled through and it slammed back into my head. the nose hit m just under my eye socket. 5mm lower and i would be on a boat back to padang holding a busted eyeball in my hand. as it is i have a ridiculous looking black eye, but hell, am very lucky to be able to type this at the moment

 

anyway, pics:

 

570_1_200991162828.jpg

 

570_2_200991162852.jpg

 

570_3_20099116299.jpg

 

4_200991162925.jpg

 

5_200991162944.jpg

 

for those of you interested in the mentawai crowd situation, i reckon 80% of the surfs we've had over the last week have been by ourselves. we are very spoilt up here. it's nice

Link to post
Share on other sites

ahhh, last week was a good week. the waves weren't always pouring through, but there's been very very few people around, so you could sit and wait for sets to come through every 10 minutes or so and share them around.

 

that hell bowly left is an amzing wave. it was pouring with rain and all i wanted to do was surf, but i forced myself onto the boat for an hour and took some pics

that bottom pic of the thick left sums it up for me. bewdiful.

and thats me in the green t-shirt wit my arms up too. it's fun hooting and yelling and calling mates into waves. if you could zoom in on those pics you'd see a smile on every surfer's face, and that pretty much sums it up for me

saw a dugong yesterday too. that's the first one i've seen up here

Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally Posted By: spook

and thats me in the green t-shirt wit my arms up too.


Yes, I noticed from the heavy metal hand signs!
(doesn't it need to be Teauhpoo size before you are allowed to do that??? I'll have to check my manual....

I am back from surf check, bloody northerly all night... ombak tadak bagus :(
Link to post
Share on other sites

nahhhh, hooting people into waves and getting everyone frothing is what it's all about! when there's no one around you can hae as much fun as you want without the cool police telling you what you can and can't do

 

claiming your own waves is another matter though. that'll cost you a round at the bar

Link to post
Share on other sites

i'm actually pretty lucky and it didn't swell up or blacken as much as i thought it would.

man, my board hit me so hard. i seriously can't believe i didn't lose my eye or break my nose. 5mm in either direction and i would be in a world of pain, but luckily it just slammed into my eye socket and for some reason that didn't break. i've never been hit so hard before in my life.

as soon as it happen i started groaning, then had the presence of mind to paddle out of the impact zone. couldn't see but guessed i was just as close to the boat as i was to anyone else in the lineup, so i paddled back holding my head and with blood pissing out.

couldn't even touch my face because i didn't want to know how bad it was, but thankfully i was ok. 2 hours later i got clear vision back.

i am still counting my lucky stars

 

this is me in the channel holding my head:

7716_155317739061_24131659061_3605650_73

Link to post
Share on other sites
Originally Posted By: spook

i am still counting my lucky stars



i nearly lost an eye once, paintball fighting of all things. Frightened shit out me doh

Those eye injuries happen more than you think. I few bucks for a nose guard could save an eye.
Man those waves are sick.......where do I sign up. groovy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Where indeed Indo.... The boys have been procrastinating for about 3 months now about where to go. I think we are way more fussy now than when we were younger. Also, years ago we had no money and all the time in the world, now it's the opposite. Moneys not the issue, time is...

I've got the pass organized, I'll either try and get a spot with Spooks crew or go to Krui in Sumatra. Probably June.

Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...