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 Quote:
Originally posted by SirJibAlot:
I hear you - I can't deal with cold water.

My favorite spots on Oahu:

Chun's Reef, N.Shore (hate the super strong current)
King's - Haleiwa (home of the freak set)
Kuni's - Waikiki (only breaks when there is a big S. Swell)
Wall's/Graveyard's - Waikiki (love the backwash)
Public's - Waikiki (scarry during low-tide - almost impaled myself there)
Ala Moana Bowl - (always popular, but tough to get in the lineup as a haole)
Barber's Point - (only on a super windy day to get that washing machine effect!)
I'm no Hawaiian, but lived there for a bit. If those are your spots, you no surfer brah \:\) I give you Chuns as I loved that place. Da rest? Hmph! Dat pic of dah palm tree at sunset - I lived there. Da nort shore fo realz. U try backyards? Yep bra, dat my backyard fo 2 years. It slice U up fo realz. Velzy just get u beat da f' up! \:\)

Even looking at a Zippy's gives me da squirts. Horribahl, fo realz brah. Ku'uaina had some good fries. L & L - now dats som good breakfast! Hilo by da prison, Undah da bridge in Hono or west coast in Kona, they good. \:D

I never claimed to be fluent in jibberish \:D
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Plucky:
Da rest? Hmph! Dat pic of dah palm tree at sunset - I lived there. Da nort shore fo realz.
Yeah, I remember you lived there. Sunset is that craaaazeee left isn't it Brah! ;\)

This is a cool thread, maybe we should start an official aussie thread Mantas!
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I'm no Hawaiian either and I didn't surf - i'm a sponge boarder. For sponge, HUGE waves are not neccessary. I'm quite content with smaller stuff. I did Waimea and wiped out pretty bad - almost drown....so I don't do the big stuff.

 

Kuni's 3-5 occational 6 is my favorite. Chuns reef - only 2-4 for me....

 

Ho brah - you got da real accent going....

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Funny thing is Jibz, U never know when your number will be up, In big or small surf.

My nearest to death incident was in small 2-4ft waves (mex pipe, mind you it was very thick!) but a weird wipeout and leash going here and there almost had me!

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Mex pipe......heavy, got a good flogging there myself.

New years day 1996. A huge swell hit, the beach was full of 10 foot bombs, there must be hundreds of surfers in town, but only about 6 guys paddled out. It took me all day to work up the guts to paddle out late in the afternoon. I took only one wave before a huge clean up set hit me. My legrope just went 'ping' and I washed up on the beach.

I never went back out. At least I appeased my conscience by paddling out

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Yea, I got worked pretty good at various spots - but Waimea really spooked me. It the weirdest feeling to just wash up on the beach and not know which way is back into the water or up onto the sand. I just gave up and sat down for a few minutes to get my bearings, catch my breath and then walk away from the water...Like they say in the movie "North Shore"

- "When the wave breaks HERE, don't be THERE!"

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Not sure, i've ridden a lot of spots that I didn't know the name of. Like out at Diamond head and in Makaha there are a lot of individual spots that have names, but I don't know what they are. I usually just say "I went Makaha"...But I didn't do Makaha very often being Haole....

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It's a little break around La'ie before the PCC and BYU. Nice sandy bottom and gentle bottom contour for long, even breaks on 3-foot days - perfect sponge territory... here, try plugging these coordinates into a map browser: 21.630782,-157.920946

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Ezorisu,

Nope, never ridden pounders. I actually haven't done much of the east shore - only Makapuu (but then again, every sponge rider has done makapuu....)

 

Looking on the map, this place is way past turtle bay and even past PCC. I lived in Mililani, so that would have been one serious trek for a little wave sliding. (funny how people from Hawaii think any drive over 30min is a long trek eh?)

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Oops... before PCC as if coming from Kaneohe-Kailua side - Sorry! Spent most of my younger sponge-riding days either there or Sherwoods. Too many "life or death" experiences at Makapu'u for me!

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  • 4 months later...

If anyone is going to be on-island in September, Nine Inch Nails will be in concert at hte Blaisdell on the 18th. I think tickets go on sale this weekend.

 

Sorry Fukdane - I don't think anyone has been monitoring this thread for some time! The answer is it takes about 10-12 hours to drive around the "Big Island" (Hawaii Island) at a leisurely pace. the island is about 50-miles from end to end, and is approximately diamond-shaped, so the perimeter is 250 to 280-miles or so. If I remember correctly, Oahu, the most urbanized island is about 139-miles around... Creek Boy might remember the actual distance if he's ever done the Dick Evans or Oahu Perimeter bike races.

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I read about this place the other day. Apparently, during the big '69 swell, they had waves at 60-80 ft... wtf !!! It seems it is becoming popular with tow-in surfing. No queues to catch the the waves there even as a haole, it seems to top it up there are some big boys with big teeth swimming around in that area. I guess this is the place to go for those willing to push themselves to the limit. Too bad the place is getting wrecked at the moment.

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>Too bad the place is getting wrecked at the moment.

 

Whaddaya mean? Like Peahi with too many punters out in the water etc?? Or are the actually destroying that area? Its a National Park so dont think that would happen. Could you add some info SerreChe?

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It has apparently started to become a place overloaded with locals in their 4wd going on joy rides through mud and what else. It is also (apparently again) starting to be covered with broken glass, rubbish, etc... anybody been there recently to confirm? From what I read, although it is park land, nobody cares. They have started taking licence plates of the offenders but no prosecution has ensued as far as I know. Not sure what the latest is on this topic...

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