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it's crazy what crowds turn you into. i like to think of myself as a fairly laidback person, but surfing crowded waves just gets my blood boiling.

surfing crowded metro waves... yeah, i can handle the crowds and do the hustle and get some waves. it's not ideal, but i can usually get my kicks. if i'm hating it i'll just paddle in.

what i can't stand is when you're surfing somewhere reasonably remote with a loooong beach full of empty peaks and then another 4WD pulls up and a bunch of guys paddle out right where you are. i've been sharing a nice little bank with some mates on a completely deserted beach and had this happen to us. i kindly asked the newcomers to move somewhere else up the beach and they just looked at me all bewildered.

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I'm from South West Vicco and have basically given up on surfing in Japan, I even moved to Shonan as it was supposedly a 'famous' surfing area............faggedaboudit. Unless you got the time and money to head to Kyushu.

 

Transition to boarding? Very different, but doable. And you don't have to paddle out through big waves or get slammed on reefs.

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BP- Didn't spend a lot of time in WA, I was mostly up round the Naraloo area. That was in 1987. I was 20 years old. I went back there in 2003. Things had changed somewhat.

Loads more people in the water.

 

Geez I can waffle on about the old days! shifty.gif

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Back in the good ol days, we had to bring our own fire wood and the nearest shop was 70 km back at Carnarvon. The waves however were (are) sick. And the marine life is way more exciting than what you might see on the Barrier reef.

My brother spent 2 winters there, I don't know how he did that.

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Fjef, didn't really see anything interesting happening there besides a blatant plug for beach beds! Is that place run by a mate of yours?

Our season is in FULL swing down here, I guess the surfers aren't only "summer surfers" like the masses that you'd get up there.

 

In desperate need of waves.. and I'm not talking about 4ft slop! I want a beating!

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wavehuntersjapan.com has a page of links with weather and wave predictions that people might find useful. The beaches and surf in the Taito area are only an hour away by train from Tokyo and a lot of people on here may not realise that they can hit the beaches and learn to surf (in English) in Japan.

 

I lived in Tokyo for several years before I discovered the relatively uncrowded beaches (compared to Shonan etc) here - others may have the same experience.

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Just saw on the news about a massive swell hitting WA and Indo. Some guys fishing around Shark bay had thier 4wd trashed by a freak wave.

 

Spook- Got any links or photos on this?

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 Originally Posted By: Bushpig
really? Is there a cyclone hitting up north or something?


No bushy.. It's called the Roaring 40's.. Come roaring from under SA and split once they hit WA.
Indo just had an insane swell end of last week & if you look at the forecast you'll see 6 days from now there's a KILLER low on it's way again ( still good actvity happening between then too)

Looks like the winds were SW and pretty shitty for this WA swell.
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i like that 3rd shot too. i really like pulled back lineup shots.

slightly off on a tangent, but there's some english photographers that are taking really great lineups pics like that, especially up the NE coast of the UK. they use gloomy industrial landscapes and old fishing harbours etc to really create some dramatic moods.

that bottom shot could maybe be yals? but maybe not as it's unikely the photog would have driven away from margs on a day like that. yals can be good when it's big, but it's so shifty. you end up just dodgin waves and not really gettin into any. the patto brothers (both mental chargers) have compared yals to sunset. not sure how legit that claim is

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 Originally Posted By: Indosnm
I love that 3rd shot! (the carpark) It's got a few troopy's, commo and a few old bomb vans! Classic. Here it's all new shiney cars!



Getting home sick Indo?
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