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I just got my hands on some photos of that little session we had at the beach last week. They have turned out to be very interesting. My mate Simon is an ex pro, so he still attracts some attention when he surfs, hence the photographer on the beach that took these shots.

 

Simon doing his thing.

 

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Here he is riding switch in the barrel. (the guy shits me)

 

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Now this is where it starts to get interesting. What do you think this grey object is ?????Mantas is surfing about 100m on the right, just out of shot. This thing probably went straight by me!

 

 

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The object on the left is a dolphin.

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Interesting.

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that noah pics is gnarly mantas - that fin definitely looks like a shark. phew, that's hairy how sharks are sighted near where you surf...

 

ah well, after i talked it up i had a very disappointing weekend of waves... guess i deserved it for getting ahead of myself!

 

not sure where that pic was taken on saturday, as the wind was W (onshore). the swell was weird - open ocean breaks were huge, but it wasn't really getting into the protected bays and points. had a lackluster 30min surf at rocky point in the morning. i haven't surfed that wave for about 5 years, and as soon as i paddled out i remembered why - inconsistent, fat and busy with kooks. oh well. still did a few ok turns, so not too bad.

went down to gracetown in the arvo. north point was 10ft onshore and nasty, so surfed cruddy huzza and south point. a couple of fun ones, but not what i was hoping for.

 

this monring, it was BIG. strong offshore in the morning was blowing most places out, so waited around til lunch.

alot of spots weren't handling the swell, and the few that were were packed (north point looked epic, but had 50+guys on it). tried to surf big yals, and paddled like a madman for 40 minutes to get out. got one nice solid right, then copped 5 8010ft waves on the head and got washed in. was actually pretty pleased that the hold down was mellow and my leggie or board didn't snap (i am a pussy and bailed). couldn't be arsed trying to get out again. all in all a rather frustrating weekend, and i'm not as stoked as i woulda liked.

however, i am taking a zen-like approach to it. it was good to get my ass whooped and put me in my place. it just makes me more determined for next time

it's pretty amazing how agitated you get when you should be getting good waves but are just getting skunked. very annoying

will hit the metro beachies tomorrow for a quick one before work

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It's like that here to Spook. Big swells are often useless as nowhere really handles it well. 4-7 foot is optimal size. Swell direction is probably more important than the size here.

 

Gave you a good whooping to put you in your place eh? lol.gif

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yeah, i've been surfing lots of small waves lately, so it was good to get the heart pumping and realise how insignificant you are. got some fun ones this morning, so am feeling happy again.

 

this pics is from margarets yesterday

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i copped a couple of sets about half this size on the head at yallingup. yals is ALOT more mellow than margs but the sweep makes it very hard to get back out

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that pic os simon law surfing switch is pretty sweet manatas. i remember seeing pics of him switching at big pipe and stuff too. it's a bit of a lost skill, and it's a shame not many people do it.

there's a hawaiian kid called jamie o'brien who surfs big pipe switch. he's a bit of a madman - he's got a vid called freakside which is worth checkin out. big barrels, big swich barrels, an all sorts of air trickery in small stuff

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i hate the farm. it's always soft and full of clowns. to be honest, i didn't even check rockies before hoofing it out there. we were staying in eagle bay so we just toddled down, and i thought it would have been bigger. ahhh, it's not a great wave, but it's fun to surf sometimes. if it's big there's some nice drops. you just need to try and get it without too many people on it.

in hindsight i should have checked boneyards. now that is a siick wave. when it's starts slabing out at 4ft, it gets pretty hairy

i had a fun surf at scabs this morning, so i'm pretty happy1

 

where'd you surf?

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sweet. knowing brazilians, they probably all went to the beach and beat the crap out of eeach other afterwards.

 

boneyards is further past the farm as you walk along the beach. it's often a scary death closeout in knee deep water, but when it's head high there are some sick thick, hollow pits. cos it's all churned up in the rip, it's normally brown with sand, and the tubes are black inside. kind of cool, but deceptively nasty

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