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JPchucky

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Posts posted by JPchucky

    Are my skis ok for Japan?

    in Snow talk, trip reports, Japan avalanche & backcountry

    Posted

    Originally Posted By: kathfern
    Originally Posted By: Creek Boy
    u should buy my atomics which are 130-105-120 at 180cm for 20,000 yen. It will cost you roughly 4000 yen to rent a pair of powder skis for a day. The Classifides section has been taken down cuz of spammers, but sure it will be up again soon and you can see the pic. Theyre bomber. Thats an excellent price for a pair of skis which are in fantastic shape.


    I think they might be a bit long for me, mine are only 162cm. 180cm - I could see myself getting into lots of trouble! But thanks anyway!


    I wiseman once said:
    Short skis suck, long skis truck!! grandpa

    Computer backups - what do you do?

    in General off-topic discussions

    Posted

    I back up everything I have.

    I put photos on DVD and onto an external HD.

     

    Then my music...

     

    I record live music at 24 bit so the files are pretty big.

    One hour > 1gb = well over 1tb of masters.

    Then 1tb+ of just Phish shows!!!! A terrastation of other random shows. All those shows are FLAC'd onto DVD-r as well. Also most of my Phish shows and alot of other shows. I transfered off of DAT so I still have those as well.

     

    So in the end everything gets backed up at least three times + I upload alot of my shows to the Live Music Archive, so there's a fourth, actually a fifth because LMA backs them up as well.

     

    On very important shows I'll back them up on DVD twice using different brands or batches "just in case" I get a bad spindle of discs. Oh and did I mention that a taper friend of mine and I store each others shows on DVD. All my DVD's are at his house, and all his at mine just in case of natural disaster wink

    "hallo"

    in General off-topic discussions

    Posted

    I think that person just says it like that because of their accent or it's just the way they say it. That's "prolly" the case since e is a couple of keys away from a but maybe...

     

    Like in the midwestern US people like to go huntin' or fishin'.

    Whatchadoin? -> nuttin. groovy

     

    *Oh, sweet, new smileys. (I've been out for awhile)

    Vid. Touching the Void

    in Snow talk, trip reports, Japan avalanche & backcountry

    Posted

    OK...

     

    You know that bond of commitment that is the climbing rope right? HE SLICED IT UP!! CUT THE ROPE! There's ABSOLUTELY no reason to ever cut the rope when your partner is in an unknown state. IMHO he should be sentenced to a life of free soloing! They were careless straight up, and surely could have avoided this situation!

     

    In three seasons working Yosemite SAR I've seen many a body scraped off the granite cause someone was too lazy to set a decent belay anchor, THOUGHT they had to get down because of closing weather that prolly wouldn't have killed them anyway, or Feared they would starve/go hungry. Shit, I've done it too of course. Last winter we were stuck on a porta-ledge for four days in an blizzard with two days of food/three days water ( we spent 7 on the wall). Just this spring we were doing a mixed FA we've been eying for years on peak 10,084 in Toulumne, the fifth pitch was easy, and my partner only placed two pieces, a red alien, and the second piece(s) were a pair of BD nuts. The pitch topped out at a super wide ledge where we were gonna spend the rest of the day, and bivy for the night. We were really worried about a big roof on the next pitch... In the morning the whole **** rack was gone except for the two nuts and the alien left on my harness. That **** didn't secure the rack. Anyway, we had to rap 3 pitches on one piece each(two on single nuts), and downclimb a pitch off a mere corner of a crack, the other off a flakeusing my last cordlette. Needless to say our partnership is OVER (although we work together, and are still good friends). But really, I should have checked that the rack was secure, I **** up too. If I was him I wouldn't want to climb with me either cause I didn't have his back. That's climbing! Two as one. Point being, I realize people make mistakes but he cut the rope.

     

    Anyways... even a total newb would know that being in a cave would be much safer than being in the elements in those conditions (weather even cleared the next day). They were scared... prolly do to inexperience (they WERE NOT that accomplished/experienced at that point in their careers).

     

    Also, even if Joe defends him, ask him why they never not only climbed together again but engaged in conversation outside greetings.

     

    BTW, I also met Simon Yates back in Patagonia...seems nice.

     

    Question:

    -Would you climb with a partner whom cut a partner free leaving them for dead?

    I can't imagine being pumped on a crux on pitch 17 of 29 with weather closing in thinking about the time my belayer cut his partner free.

    Vid. Touching the Void

    in Snow talk, trip reports, Japan avalanche & backcountry

    Posted

    For whoever asked earlier,

    the film is about Joe Simpson and Simon Yates climb of

    the west face of 6,344 metre Siula Grande.

     

    BP, I must ask.

    What seems "pretty stupid" about attempting that route?

    It's a calculated risk just like anytime we duck a rope, or exit through a BC gate. The better the goods, the higher the risk I'm willing to take to get on that. I've been to Siula Grande, it's quite inspiring, and I hope to return one day.

     

    What was stupid was was how Yate's knew he was down climbing, and didn't belay him down the 20' cliff or whatever it was, he prolly wouldn't have fell. They didn't dig a cave at nightfall. Yate's didn't anchor himself while belaying. Yate's then cut the rope while still having 150' of rope left because his hands were so frozen that he couldn't get the knot holding the twin 150's together through the belay plate. Then Yate's had one more screw, and one of the twins, he easily could have set a mediocre anchor, rapped down to poke around abit, but he bounced, and I'm not even going to get into how easily he could have secured his partner before digging his pit to crash out for the night. Anyone with basic mountaineering skills could have secured him. It should also be noted that the common decent for any of the routes on Siula Grande is to rap the face, rather than decend the ridge.

     

    That was stupid...

    I'm never climbing with Joe Yates!!

    If Yate's knew what he was doing

     

    Joe Simpsons story of survival however is amazing!!

    Where the movie ends it then takes more than three days by mule and truck to get to a hospital in Lima... however the doctors wouldn't treat him till his insurance cleared two days later!

    travel companies

    in General off-topic discussions

    Posted

    A - T - L!!

     

    That's sick!!

    Wish I could head home, but looks like it'll be a while.

    Be sure to see some shows while out there.

     

    Anyways, I always use IACE travel.

    It seems that I always get the best price with them, and I know they have an Atlanta office as I've bought a ticket from that office before so if you have any problems ...

     

    Def. let me know if you fly outta Narita.

    BTW havent got those shows out.Gotta get some more CD-Rs to

    Burn ya a few STS9 shows I wanna give you. I'll surely get them out this week though.

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