hknz

Originally Posted By: Kumapix Originally Posted By: hknz 2008 Burton malolo 158, hate the graphic of 2009 one but the stupid 3D inserts are really a problem for stance width adjustment I love those graphics! do you have a weird stance width that is restricted by the 3d holes? Those graphics is the best among several years of malolo. The topsheet is a gross one which can be easily scratch and dirt. if i had a choice , i would prefer a matt one. havent try the stance, the recommended stance is 21", i think i would set it to 19" for freeriding and hope to be ok.

I ride both ski and snowboard. in ski, beginners usually rotate the upper body to initiate a turn. advance one use body joints from waist below to do it and that's involve some sort of counter-rotation. in snowboard, beginners usually do counter-rotation to turn. while more advance riders initiate the turn by twisting the upper body. I always wonder why they are opposite and is there a technique to do a turn in snowboard with upper body TOTALLY dependent?

2008 Burton malolo 158, hate the graphic of 2009 one but the stupid 3D inserts are really a problem for stance width adjustment

I refer to this turning technique "when going toe to heel lift the front foot toes whilest pushing on the back toes and when going heel to toe do the oposite. ie push on the front toe and lift the back toes." According to this site http://club-ski.web.cern.ch/club-ski/snowboard/tutor/frswiss.html and extremecarving its pure rotational, using the inertia of the upper body to turn the lower part. which i think its very good at large-radius carving. So, i guess the technique you mention would be only suitable for softer board and without upper body rotation. it would more or less

btw, would it help to ride powder if one can masters up un-weight and down un-weight skill?

coldcat, yeah, i've got the budget for a Discount board only. I now have burton boots and think that the lacing system is great. But i really hate the burton bindings and couldnt find one which is acceptable. They seems fragile. Also, the 3-hole or the new ELS(?) system on the board is making me crazy. But there is no good alternative for a tapered board out in the market and i have very limited choices.

what i mean is to turn in groomed runs. cos 255mm is more likely a mid-wide to wide board. i havent try one, but just heard and know that.

thx, Kumapix. A little worried about the waist width of fish, 255mm! seems to be more difficult to turn. i probably would go for a malolo

Originally Posted By: tsondaboy Its completely the opposite. You get leg burn if you don't move your bindings as back as possible. Thats because in order to stay afloat in powder you shift your body weight to the back leg. If you have the bindings on the far back together with a tapered board like fish, you will be able to have a more relaxed stance on the board, hence less rear leg burn. It makes sense and i do understand the logic. As for tapered powder board, what would you choose? 2007-08 NS Premier 161 (18mm tapered) US$420 42,000yen 2007-08 Burton Fish 156 (30mm tapered) U

OK means....? heard that shifting the binding to the back will burn the back leg. not sure about it since i seldom ride powder as, sadly, there is no powder.

thx for reply. I would definitely go BackCountry, so i guess i will probably get one powder board for the trip if it is more fun! Kumapix, sound interesting. where is your board? I am 64kg (140lbs), 167cm tall (5-6"). Would 160 be ok for me?

Hi all, Planning to head for a few months in niseko from Feb. Know that there is plenty of Powder Snow. Is a Powder specified board needed? I am a intermediate rider now riding an all mountain Option Eclipse 154, with a few mm tapered. Notice that there is a Discount Never Summer Summit 161 for US$420 with 18mm tapered, which is for Freeride and Powder. Any suggestion for a worth-to-buy powdered board?