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13th July 2001
No matter how green summer might seem, the dedicated are still caught
mid powder turn.
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The last of 2001 season snow is yet to disappear from Mt Yotei's crater, but
the countdown for 2002 is definitely underway. Niseko-Hirafu's season is
scheduled to start sometime around November 22, and a recent rush of job
related enquiries has prompted me to put together a little info on living and
working in Hokkaido's powder capital.
Season 2001 saw a sudden increase in the number of English-speaking snow
seekers. Numbers have been growing steadily over the last few years, but last
season brought with it a jump in excess of 300%. The reason for this is
unquestionably the availability of better English information, mostly via the
Internet. Go Ski Japan Guide! After seeing so many happy powder grins etched
with the I'll be back look, and combined with the power of word of mouth
promotion, non-Japanese numbers are set to increase again in 2002. This is
where job opportunities lie. Last season, Niseko's restaurants, bars, shops and
lodges were forced into catering for English speaking customers, and quite a
few were caught unprepared. These businesses had been operating happily without
English menus or English speaking staff, but the non-Japanese market is now
proving too important to ignore.
While focusing on the English perspective, it's important to
remember that, although statistics show the number of Japanese patrons
declining and Western guests increasing, Japanese clientele still underwrites
more than 95% of Niseko's business. Last season demonstrated that restaurants
or bars at times boast as many if not more gaijin than Japanese faces. Perhaps
it's just that the Western element was making a lot more noise! As a rule,
however, if you want a job in the service industry, you will have to interact
with Japanese people, so speaking reasonable Japanese becomes a requirement.
There are a few exceptions. One is snowboard or ski
instructing. Especially with the increase in first time skiers coming from Hong
Kong, Taiwan and Korea, the need for freelance English-speaking instructors in
Niseko is growing. Overall, English lessons still tend to be a bit sporadic. So
if you want to make enough money to pay for rent as well as support a
beer-drinking habit, you will probably have to teach beginners in Japanese as
well. For this, very basic Japanese language skills seem not to be too
difficult to acquire. It is more important to have teaching experience and
people skills. Once you are here, it's just a matter of sitting down and
learning a few set phrases to cover the bits you can't explain by gesture or
example. Some of the more popular instructors can be often be seen looking at
little note pads covered in scribbles when they forget the necessary
vocabulary.
Having some form of instructing qualification is not always a
prerequisite, but it generally helps. For contact information for Niseko's main
instructing schools, please contact :
editor@skijapanguide.com
Remember that most of these companies are currently pretty busy with their
summer rafting businesses, so may not be focused on winter yet. But, if you are
keen, it's worth dropping them an introductory email.
Another work opportunity that will let you enjoy Niseko without
proficiency level I or II Japanese is pension (lodge) work. There are a number
of pension owners who will take you in as an isouro if you appear friendly and
willing to work. Isouro work usually involves doing chores in return for food
and board, and most importantly gives you access to a lift pass. The work is
not too demanding: snow shoveling, cleaning, bed making, and help during meal
times. It is a great way to experience ski resort culture from the inside, as
well as to practice your Japanese. Most of the families who run pensions are
really good people. Financially it is not rewarding. Most pensions will pay you
nothing, or if they do, only a token amount of pocket money. Nevertheless it
does save you rent and food bills, as well as the cost of a season pass (Niseko-Hirafu
season pass is 87,000 yen).
There is one downside to pension work that you should be aware of - you will
not always be able to ride freshies. Schedules vary from place to place, but
most pensions will require you to work 5 or 6 days a week from 7-11am, then
4-6pm. Hirafu lifts run 8am thru 9pm so you are still left with plenty of snow
time. However, waking up to 40cm of fresh powder and having to stay inside and
make beds will test even the most conscientious.
Most pensions finalize their isouro positions around September or October.
Sending a Japanese/English resume is a start, but if you are serious it is
worth visiting Niseko and doing some door knocking. Because these people will
literally be taking you into their houses, they are often cautious at first and
meeting face to face is the best way to install confidence. You also want to
make sure that these are the right people to live and work with. Visiting
during the summer months can help, but as some pensions only operate over
winter, doing the door knocking in October or November may also be a good idea.
Note: it is important to have warm shoes and clothing as there will probably be
snow on the ground.
Arriving in Niseko mid season and finding work is also a possibility. Around
Jan/Feb there can be a mini-exodus of people who have had enough of Hokkaido's
cold - or perhaps of their current employment. Finding work in March or April
becomes more difficult, so my recommendation is to target the first half of the
season.
If you do decide to just turn up it is best to expect to pay monthly rent of
around 35,000-55,000 yen in a backpacker type set up. Food on the mountain is
not really more expensive than you would expect elsewhere - you can have a
decent meal out for around 1,000 yen. Kutchan town (15 mins away by bus) offers
a number of supermarkets and department stores, so all necessities are within
reach. For the drinkers, beer in a restaurant or bar will start from about 500
yen, so the Hirafu Seico Mart convenience store is the cheaper alternative.
Most importantly, come with adequate clothing, and don't expect to be able to
pick up a longish snowboard or good set of skis cheaply around here.
There are lots of great memories and deep, dry powder turns waiting - Niseko
is lots of fun. Do the door knocking - it's just a matter of being at the right
place at the right time with the right smile.
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