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11th July 2003
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Niseko 2003 season kicked off with more snow falling than ever before. Talk
of another possible La Niña-boosted super season buzzed across the village,
stirring flashbacks of 1999 – the season of endless powder. ‘99’s
non-stop snow provided what seemed to have been a lifetime’s share of
bottomless turns and face shots, and is looked back upon with awe. This is
partly because of the amazing six metre plus snow base within resort limits. It
is also partly because of the four months of relentless snow shoveling; a
battle raged three times daily just to find the steps to your house.
Although good powder did continue to fall in ’03, last season didn’t
turn out to be a super snow season. Thanks to the early falls and consistently
cold air temperatures, above average base depths continued until the end of
January. Come February, however, and the snow just seemed to lose its impetus.
February 1-15 is often regarded as the prime time for big dumps in Hirafu, but
last season the powder gods were not so generous. Despite this, consistent
small falls through February and March did put smiles on the faces of those
lucky enough to be on the mountain, and there were definitely some great turns
to be had. The snow-shoveling brigade, nevertheless, could be seen walking
around the village with spare time on their hands.
Again there was a noticeable increase in foreign visitors last season. The
competition for first tracks became more cut-throat, and at times more Western
than Japanese customers could be spotted either on the hill or walking around
the village. Despite this increase, Hirafu’s overall resort figures dropped a
little more than 5% compared to 2002. This drop in Japanese guest numbers is
mainly attributed to March’s poor takings. Freakish weather brought
gale-force winds, wreaking havoc for the lift operators, and at one stage all
lifts, bar the two beginner runs, actually shut down for three days
consecutively. This was the first time such inactivity has been witnessed in
Hirafu.
Weather-wise, even for the days that most lifts actually operated, strong winds
and poor visibility happened to coincide with many of the ’03 season
weekends. These conditions are being blamed for deterring many Sapporo-based
families from making the trip to Niseko.
Film crews and photographers, who had come from all over the world to report
on Niseko-Hirafu’s newly found fame, had their work cut out for them with
sunny moments being few and far between. One Australian television crew
stationed here for ten days in February, went home most disappointed when Mt
Yotei decided it would not appear for filming even once during their stay.
On a positive note, despite the opening up of Niseko’s backcountry to all,
the out of bounds safety record remained intact. Minor injuries were reported
in localized avalanche slides on the East face, but luckily no one was
seriously hurt. Season ’04 will offer the same Niseko Local Rules’
"you are responsible for your own safety out there" policy, so here’s
to another responsible and safe winter. Avalanche awareness courses are
recommended for all planning to head outside resort limits.
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Another positive change, the increase in Western visitors has put pressure on
the four Niseko resorts – Hirafu, Alpen, Higashiyama and Annupuri – and a
long term Free Passport (all mountain) lift ticket is being created. Details
are still being finalized, but it appears we will have a seven day Free
Passport ticket for ‘04. (At present the longest All Mountain pass is four
days/three nights.) Provided Niseko doesn’t revert into Japan’s windiest
resort again, top lift connections and free bus access between resorts will
mean you can hurtle through Hanazono powder in the morning, pop down to
Annupuri for lunch, and then head back across to Higashiyama for a soothing
afternoon onsen. The introduction of longer-term Free Passport tickets
will help spread the pressure of morning first tracks. If Hirafu is too
crowded, Higashiyama and Annupuri await.
The growing non-Japanese presence has sparked a demand for suitable
self-enclosed accommodation in Hirafu. As a result, a few entrepreneurs have
decided to erect new cottage buildings this summer. Designed with Western-sized
leg stretching space and head clearance, and with the added luxury of
dishwashers and English cable TV, the foreign guests will no doubt be kept
content.
Freestylers will be pleased to hear that Hirafu’s new park was declared a
success last season, and plans are to add more for ’04. The kick on the
tabletops and spine will no doubt once again vary depending on the shaper’s
mood for that day, but with a full season’s experience behind them, let’s
trust practice makes perfect. The word from the resort is that a super long
rail is being added. "So long, only those with the best balance will be
able to stay on track ‘til the end…"
Hirafu’s après ski enjoyment is set to escalate with two new restaurants,
one bar and maybe even a breakfast café opening to join the already present
menagerie of truck, beach bar and vending-machine-door nightspots. The Hirafu
Tourist board has decided to put together an English village map, so all should
be easily to locate. It appears even Kutchan police are taking English lessons,
so lets hope all foreign guests are on their best behaviour. Efforts to
introduce an international ATM machine or foreign exchange booth on mountain
are proving fruitless, so bringing Japanese yen cash still seems to be the only
answer.
As the last traces of snow melt off the top of Mt Yotei, the Chinese year of
the Sheep ambles closer towards that of the Monkey. More Western
guests and more village excitement is on the agenda for Niseko Season 2004.
Most importantly, a lift pass that opens up the whole Annupuri mountain range
is on the way. May the powder be even deeper than ’99 - don’t forget your
snowshoes and snorkel…
