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5th July 2002
There's still snow on Mt Yotei! Well, only a few sad looking patches of
ice lurking at the bottom of sheltered valleys.
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The powder turns of winter are a distant five months away. Nevertheless, for
those needing a replacement fix, Niseko may still have the answer.
Contrary to the belief that summers cater only to the rafting or golf
connoisseur, Hokkaido's powder paradise also plays host to a wide range of
summer activities. Weather gods balance yin and yang by pairing winter's cold
and stormy conditions with settled and sunny days during the summer months. The
northern location offers a reprieve from the heat and humidity of Japan's main
island. Hokkaido is also lucky enough to dodge the wet of the rainy season.
Mid-summer temperatures peak around 27 degrees Celsius, and cool off to around
18 during the evening. The night stars are positively breathtaking.
Summer scenery can be described in one word - green. Clean air and water are
complemented by wind, waves, mountains, rivers and wide-open spaces. The pace
of life in Hokkaido is slow and friendly, and respect for nature is strong.
Niseko provides an escape from the frustration of crowds and traffic jams, and
also a perfect backdrop for outdoor fun.
Getting here is easy. If you have time, one of the cheapest and most
relaxing options is to catch a ferry. Departing from most major cities within
Japan, ferry trips tend to take eighteen hours or more, and are great fun.
Onboard onsen-sized baths, movie theaters, games rooms and restaurants are
plenty to keep the active passenger entertained. For those more interested in
kicking back, reading a book on deck with the taste of the sea in the air is a
magical experience.
Because of their size, the ferries cope with swells, and during summer, sea
conditions are normally subdued. If you are faced with a little swaying, try
the table tennis. The game takes on entirely new parameters!
Another enjoyable way to make the trip is to take the overnight sleeper
train from Tokyo's Ueno Station. As long as you aren't stuck in a compartment
with a snorer, the train offers good food and great views.
If speed is important, plane travel from Tokyo to Sapporo's Chitose Airport
takes one and a half hours. Tickets purchased in advance offer substantial
discounts.
Accommodation in Hokkaido is plentiful, and there are plenty of vacancies
during summer. Obon holiday period (mid August) is the only time when it's
important to book well in advance. Tent and sleeping bag, motorbike rider
house, backpacker, pensione or the comforts of a hotel room are available to
suit your budget. Pensione accommodation with Japanese family hospitality and
delicious homegrown food is a treat!
So, what does Niseko summer offer that comes close to equaling a deep,
fluffy powder turn? The list is long. Here goes... mountain biking, mountain
boarding, wake-boarding, scuba diving, surfing, kite-boarding, rafting,
kayaking, duckying, soccer, rugby, tennis, golf, creeking, touring, motorcross
and enduro motorbiking... ahh, running out of breath. The list continues... hot
air ballooning, hang-gliding, para-sailing, horse riding, bush trekking,
mountain climbing, rock climbing, abseiling, bridge swinging, frisbeeing,
onsening, bbq's, Ainu Festivals, sansai (edible plant) collecting, star
gazing...
Most of the above have been available in or around Niseko for years. You can
obtain information by contacting any of the adventure centers. For surfers, the
best waves are be found down south of Muroran. If you into scuba diving, the
crystal clear waters and abundant fish and reef life of the Shakotan Peninsular
is spectacular.
Some newer additions to the list deserve special mention. Firstly, Hirafu's
horse riding which was set up and run by three charismatic young Japanese
people going under the names of "Swat", "Gerro" and "Kasun".
A fine collection of Arabian, trotter and Hokkaido trekking ponies now reside
next to the Hirafu gondola. Trails have been cut into the green jungle that
covers the ski slopes, and they lead up and above the halfpipe. Viewing Hirafu
on horseback is a fascinating experience. With the magnificent Mt Yotei in the
background, it's a great way to be able to see what's actually buried under all
that snow.
Catering for beginners as well as experienced riders, the horses are
available seven days a week from 9am to sunset. Price may be a hoof more
expensive than rafting at 3000 yen for 30 minutes, or 9000 yen for 90mins, but
with all equipment included it's well worth a try. Experienced riders are
allowed to ride unaccompanied.
Reservations are required.
Contact Sakai-san "Swat" on 090 5982 4745 (He does speak a little
English.)
If one-horse power isn't enough, Niseko boasts two car/bike racing venues.
The first, "Hokkaido Speed Park", offers a tight, asphalt racing
circuit as well as a dirt motorcross track. The second venue, located between
Kutchan and Weiss, is called "Genki Mura Mountain" and is an off-road
biker's paradise. With over sixteen kilometers of Enduro tracks, it is used by
the big motorcycle makers for competition races. Serious fun for the serious
rev heads. Full body armour is recommended.
"Hokkaido Speed Park": tel 0136 23 3880 (Japanese only).
"Genki Mura": Contact Sasaki-san on 090 3285 1394 (Japanese only).
On a much quieter note, another summer delight is the intriguing Ainu
Moshiri Ichimannensai. Dates for this year's festival are still unclear, but it
is expected to start sometime around August 15 and run for about six
days. See last years article for more information about the
festival.
We all hunger after that winter fix but, in the meantime, there is still
some of Niseko's magic to experience. Summer has come out of hibernation.
