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16th August 2001
Deep down hippie tendencies that need satisfying? An urge over Obon
holidays to really escape from it all for a few days?
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Maybe just interested in Ainu culture and great ethnic music? Whatever your
reason, there is a festival coming up in Hokkaido not to be missed. Running
from August 15-20, the "Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai" offers a glimpse
into the mystic Ainu world and a different side of Japan.
Believing "dance" is an important source of energy
for bodily health, the Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai is a great opportunity for
Hokkaido's native Ainu people to let down their (often very long) hair and
party. The name of the festival itself translates into something along the
lines of "The Ainu ten thousand year celebration". Ainu Moshiri
actually means "the quiet earth where humans live", but I am told by
Ainu elder Rera-san that celebration comes in all forms - quiet and not so
quiet...
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But before painting a picture of some big "Ainu rave", it's
important to explain that there is a lot more to the Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai
than just boogie. Originating in its current public form thirteen years ago,
the annual event draws nature and music lovers from across the world. The
festival is an opening for outsiders to learn about Ainu culture. It is also a
means for the Ainu people to help themselves. Welfare related problems and land
rights, combined with long running discrimination and persecution, have left
many Ainu or part Ainu people without identity. The Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai
is designed to help foster Ainu identity, hope and pride.
A big portion of the festival is directed towards educating Ainu children. On
an old wooden makeshift stage, boys and girls of all ages perform traditional
song and dance. Dressed in colourful Ainu robes, necklaces decorated with
charms, and large gypsy-looking hoop earrings, it is quite a spectacle. As the
day progresses, slightly inebriated parents join in, and before long the stage
overflows and everyone seems to be dancing. This communal feeling is part of
the Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai magic.
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Ainu culture is based on a complex spiritual relationship between humans and
the world of nature. Ainu people see elements of nature as 'spiritual beings',
and they call them kamui. The bear, snake and spider are all examples of
important kamui in Ainu religion. Certain plants are also given kamui status.
Plant kamui are said to have come down to Moshiri (Earth) from Mintara
(heaven). This respect for nature has allowed the Ainu people to live in
harmony with their surroundings for thousands of years. Ainu elder Rera-san
explains that when hunting, a portion of the kill is always returned to the
forest as a token of gratitude.
During Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai, this respect for nature is instilled in the
children. Whilst practicing yumi (traditional archery), bamboo arrows are shot
at colourful cardboard bear and deer creations. There is a sense of importance
as everyone waits their turn. It's lots of fun and definitely worth having a
go. Be warned though, no matter how reverend the shooter may be, some arrows
shoot off at pretty radical directions...
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Over the six days of the festival there are plenty of events
planned: Ainu cooking, painting, clothing/decoration design, and the popular
chise (house) making to name but a few. An Ainu chise looks similar to an
Indian teepee. It is made out of three main vertical supporting sticks, which
are then woven together using sasa (bamboo grass), thatch and dirt. Usually
held on the last day of the festival, young and old come together to create the
chise. Following last year's event, a handful of chise houses suddenly appeared
around the Niseko landscape. They withstood the extremes of winter really well.
Ainu elder Ashiri Rera (meaning New Wind) offers a warm welcome
to anyone interested in coming to Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai. Along with the
various events, Ainu language classes are held for all during the festival.
Since it is considered a lost language, Rera-san hopes to rekindle Ainu dialect
amongst the younger generation. Aside from the festival, Rera-san teaches Ainu
language at the nearby junior school in Nibutani. She says there is a growing
band of young Ainu speakers. Rera-san is happy to talk with anyone interested
in Ainu culture, but apologises that she doesn't understand much English.
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With an entrance fee of 2000 yen for six days worth of festival, Ainu
Moshiri Ichimannensai is not a moneymaking exercise. The facilities are simple,
and you need to bring your own tent and sleeping bag. Being in the mountains,
temperatures can drop at night, so best to have something warm to wear. If it
rains, expect mud. Gumboots can be a good investment. Camping areas, toilet
facilities and fresh water are all provided, and food stalls operate during the
festival. The food provided is mostly Ainu-style, and delicious. Everything is
reasonably priced. Last year there were no electronic drink vending machines at
the festival, but a convenience store is located in Nibutani 20mins drive away.
Getting to Ainu Moshiri Ichimannensai can be a bit of a mission. Situated in
Asahi about 20kms from Nibutani, Hidaka (South-West Hokkaido), it should take
about 1.5hrs to drive from either Chitose or Tomakomai. A little longer to come
from Sapporo. Most people get lost the first time, but remember the festival
goes for a long time, so take your time and enjoy the scenery.
If you have a didgeridoo, drum or any form of musical instrument packed away
in a closet somewhere, bring it along. Mukkuri (mouth harp) performances are
held regularly, and everyone joins in. Situated around a huge fire, the night
sessions are fantastic. With chanting and firestick performances, Ainu Moshiri
Ichimannensai is quite hypnotizing.
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