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06-07 Hakuba Season Review
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Nick Kowal |
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Hakuba, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
What to say about last season really…? I can't say that I
skied anything super deep or that I even skied in the resort very much at
all. The ski season started off with a bang. Getting early top-to-bottom
powder turns on Dec 4th at Happo-One Ski Resort when it
wasn't even open, I thought, "Man this season is going to rock!"
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My season did rock, but it was the conditions that
dictated which way my season would go.
From the outset, I thought that I would be touring more
this season. I really don't like to tour after big storms so that usually
means a late start, say sometime in February, when the snow slows down a
bit. However, due to a slow snow year I started to tour much earlier—on the
2nd of Jan—and just never looked back. That first tour ended up setting the
tone for the season. For the first time ever for me in Japan, if I was going
to ski powder, I was going to have to look for it. I really do love
exploring and explore I did.
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After that first tour the buzz was on. Jer, my main
touring partner, was in great form and willing to go anytime throughout the
season. Off we went to hit some chutes in early January off of the back of Happo-one. That day, 40 minutes into the tour we knew we weren't going to
beat the wind. Unreal wind saw us almost getting frostbitten. So we changed
plans and skied an area named Garagara-zawa and down its steepest
section. Unreal powder conditions and stable snow: a great run. And upon
getting down, we knew that we were going up again.
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This time we would ski The Mix area. The Mix
is just a short hike off of Happo-one. Once you find The Mix you can
get into some very nice steep lines: a great little spot with Alaska-style
choices everywhere. We got so lucky that day, great snow even through the
run-out. The run-out was only a 20 to 25 degree pitch but the perfect, light
blower powder allowed us to get that perfect long run top to bottom. Two kilometers
of powder equals helicopter skiing for free in my books.
The season moved on and things just stayed the same. Five
cms of snow here or there really wasn't going to do much inbounds, but 5cms
in the back country would always prove to be good. Those 5cms kept bonding
quickly every time it fell, and I would go BC skiing any chance I could.
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Over the last few seasons, I've been eyeing a section
referred to as The Big Triangle. It has about eight rideable spines
across one wide area.
The big triangle is not easy to get on if you don’t know where it is.
You can scare yourself in this area if you well and truly want to.
So, I found a willing partner and off we went. Down through the Oshidashi
bowl which is beside Garagarazawa, over a small traverse and we were on
top of a sick chute that we could ski and then traverse onto The Big
Triangle.
It proved to be everything I always dreamed about: steep and
knee-to-thigh deep; face shots all the way down!
As another weekend rolled around with more stable snow,
Jer and I again were heading out to the back country. This time we would try
to head high behind Happo-one but again the wind had other ideas. We would
settle for the Mumezawa Ridge to the furthermost meadow. What I
remember about that day is how cold and fed up I was with Alpine Trekkers.
When the photographer was finally set up, we got our chance to rip into the
meadow. We were a bit worried that the line would cliff out, but our spotter
said that if we stayed left that we would rip through a chute. So we got a
prefect knee-deep, sunny blower to a knee-deep 55 degree tight chute. I
high-fived Jer as soon as we got together.

As we traversed out, we eyed The Big Triangle and
committed to it. As we ripped down the run-out, we knew that this line would
be vying for 'run of the year so far'. I took a quick stop at home to change skis
- one of the many benefits of actually living in Hakuba. I changed to my 125mm
skis, the fattest pair in my quiver and up we went again. Down through
perfect, windblow powder snow with absolutely no tracks on it, we soon made
it to the top of The Big Triangle. Jer and I both had different lines
in mind so we didn't care who would get to go first. As Jer dropped in down
the spine, the snow just billowed over him every turn he made until he had
the confidence to carve off of it into the gully. Carving wall to wall for
100 vertical meters, I lost sight of Jer in his safe zone.

It was my turn now. I was itching, but I knew that I had
to be careful and stay on my spine in order to avoid the start zone and lots
of slough. One turn, two turns, three turns, I let the big fat skis run into
the deepest lightest snow of the season. Into my gully and a quick look back
at speed showed no slough or sliding. Down I went until the crux came — hmm,
an air over the rocks or do a 50 meter straight-line? After a quick stop, I
opted for the straight-line. One jump turn to let the slough run, I waited
to let it go, then dove in. I only skied for four or five seconds, but hit
Mach speed going well over 80 km/h. The next turns were a blur of ecstasy and
screaming. I caught up with Jer waiting in the safe zone and we were pumped
up as much as two people could ever be. High-fives, pole taps and just
talking gibberish, we got everything we could ever have wanted out of our
lines. We both thought and talked about what section we wanted next and how
we would ski it again but, alas, Mother Nature would not give us good
conditions at The Big Triangle again this season. That’s OK, though;
she’s waiting for us for next year.

After more and more tours with a week off to let the wife
have a go, I was back at it with some core SJ crew. What a fark up day this
was. First, Goryu-Toomi Ski Resort shut down the gondola, and then
trying to push onto The Big Triangle when it was loaded was just
silly. Although we were never in danger on the hard ridge or in the low
angle powder, the idea to push onto The Big Triangle wasn't that
smart. Today’s Plan A was not working out. Always have a few plans in your
head, at the very least a Plan A, B, and C.

When checking the snow, I accidentally dropped Dizzy's
shovel handle down the slope. My pit didn't show much other than a loaded
slope that seemed safe. I decided that I just wasn't worth the chance. I
stayed roped up and decided to cut a north-west facing mellower slope 30
meters skier's left of The Big Triangle. One second into the cut, the
whole slope released and ran fast. The rope held me. At that point, plan C
was in full effect: we needed to find a west-facing lower angle slope
further down the ridge. A bit of a traverse on the hard ridge, and we found
our little slope.
Once safely down, I reflected that while I knew it was
safe to be where we were, my choice of The Big Triangle was not
smart. I should've been content with the nice meadow bowl skiing that was
well-traveled instead of the steep exposed line we'd been on that feed onto
the meadow.
Feeling bad about the last tour the week before, pretty
much the same SJ crew plus Jer got together to tour behind Tsugaike and
explore a bit. I'd done this tour a few times before and I really liked it.
The plan was to dig a pit and work as a team.

Everything went smooth with Dizzy getting his hands dirty
ski cutting the slope then digging a pit to check the snow. As the area
really had no safe zone to dig the pit, we kept Dizzy connected to a rope.
The pit held to a medium 5 if I remember correct, but it was only a small
layer on top releasing.
Confident in the slope, Dizzy dropped in forgetting to
pack his snowshoes, which I had to the then attach to my pack. The line held
firm for Dizzy, so Kuma went next and set up his camera. What a fun little
line! Dizzy went over a little hump near the bottom of the line and his
helmet flew off his head about a meter in the air! But somehow in mid-turn
he managed to catch the darn thing and put it back on his head. Jer thought
about throwing a sick air to summersault and pulled it off with us laughing
our heads off. Sock Monkey Killed it,too. Smooth, thick turns right down the
guts.
Fubuki found some cool little rollers to slash on his heelside turns.
The best line of the day though has to go to Kuma! Kumapix launched himself
about four meters further than planned, almost making love to a tree in the
process. Yes, that is the reason we all have helmets in the back country.

After a small traverse, we were climbing again. Jer
became our trailbreaker and did a great job of making fast time skinning up.
Fubuki was walking in these huge snowshoes courtesy of Jamesbob that were
just not staying on. Eventually, some extra straps came out of bags and the
shoes stayed on.
The next run down was through what I think is the best
tree run in Hakuba. Fifteen hundred vertical feet of cliffs, rocks, steeps
and meadows. Everyone had a blast with some saying that there would
definitely be coming back the next day. Great little tour with a great team.
Since then, the team has unfortunately seen two members leave Japan. Too
bad, really, cause that was a super sick fun team to tour with.
With my good friend Fubuki leaving Japan to move onto his
next journey, I thought we should do one last tour together. On a picture
perfect day, we headed up the Happo-One Ridge. We made such good time
up the ridge that we would be able to get two runs down a mini south face
before moving onto Oshidashi. Nothing extreme, just a classic day
with prefect weather, good snow and great banter. Good spring snow on the
south, and nice powder on the north: a perfect send off. On the walk back to
the car, we just chatted and farted around. No hitching a ride, we just
enjoyed the weather and the one-hour walk back to the car.

In come the pros. Possibly the highlight of the season
was when Wink Inc/Rush HD TV showed up for 10 days to film a TV show and
possibly some segments for their next movie. Time off of work was taken, but
the weather wasn't cooperating at all. Hiking into spring lines and crashing
rental cars all week, things were a mess until that prefect Friday. On
Wednesday and Thursday, it had snowed 40 to 50 cms. The forecast called for
clear weather Friday, which meant that Friday would be the day to film. On
Friday, up early, with shuttles organized, we were out the door and on an
early lift.
Cameramen set up on the ridge near the top quad and then
we ripped The Mix for all it was worth. We got four runs in that day.
Four runs on the terrain that people look at and dream about when they come
to Happo. Charging for the Camera, hucking airs and billy-goating
down rocks; what a crew. The day was so good that even when the sun went
down and the filming stopped, we just kept riding perfect stable pow lines.
That night saw a huge party with hair hacked off, mullets made and touring
plans solidified.

The next day, I got to take Kina Picket and Will Burkes
on a 2-hour tour behind Goryu/47 into some of the steepest terrain in Hakuba.
There were uttered claims of the steepest treed area some had ever skied and
that made me smile. Listening to your hero’s talk about how stoked they are
to ski your home terrian is a felling that I can’t discribe. We got to the
line and waited for the camermen to say go. We got the call and dropped in.
It was steep, deep stable snow, so stable that to our shock it didn't even
slough. The snow was over the head blower powder. Ripped at speeds only pros
can really do. We grouped up in the safe zone and started the second half of
the line. Not as steep as the upper section at a mellow 30 degrees, but it
was just as fun. There were big walls of snow to throw huge cutback-like
turns on. By the time I stopped to re-group I was grinning ear to ear. What
a line. We end up at the Hakuba 47 cafés. Beers, coffee and water
were taken in with our shuttle driver. The TV show stress was now over, the
work was now done; time to just relax and let go.
Nipped by Goryu-Toomi again. One of my old touring
partners decided to heck with living in the real world I'm coming back to
Japan. So when Dan rocked in, we had a plan to rock Goryu. We would
ski the North faces, a two hour’s climb away great plan but you need
tickets. After getting on the lift, we realized that Dan didn't have any
points on his ticket. We went up thinking that he would wait at the bottom
but the liftie after a short chat with Dan let him up the lift.

With no phone or way to contact each other, we waited.
Two hours passed, and then finally we got together. We gave up on Hakuba
47 and decided to head to Norikura. If we were only going to get
one run it might as well be a sick one, right?
What a slog we were in for. We decided to try a new route
up and boy that was a big mistake. Over two hours of slogging up through
punchy snow. After almost giving up three times, we made it and we were
right on top of our line. Our efforts weren’t for nothing though: perfect
powder all the way down, so perfect that we forget about the day's screw-ups
and were just super stoked that we got it right after all.
With snow starting to fall we committed to skiing trees
on the same aspect the next day. The next day produced some of the nicest
lift accessed tree skiing of the season.
With work finished and the forecasted rain coming up
fast, a little tour was put together with Dan. We would try to ski the north
faces of Norikura and then ski the north faces chutes of
Tenguparra. Once again, the wind beat me this season. We gave up on the
Norikura portion of the trip. We instead did a 1 km traverse to ski
some rolling meadow terrain and then ski the planned Tengu chutes.

We dug a pit and found a 4 meter base of snow. The pit
also told us that the layers in the pack were quite stable, a good sign for
the steep chutes. The meadow was the prefect boot-deep powder. Knowing that
this day could be the last powder day in the BC, we milked every turn right
to the bottom. We put skins on and back to the top of Tenguparra via
the trees. The first half of the slog was so easy.
We stopped and ate lunch in a little cove of trees before
heading up into the steeps. Once at the top I roped up to check the snow
with a quick pit. Others had already skied part of the slope and I got the
same results as the pit before, so I was confident in the slope stability.
We chose to ski the slope safe, making 20 turns max
before finding a safe zone. A bit of slough but prefect snow nonetheless.
Down the bottom and out the nice run-out to the final skin up to our
favorite Norikura trees.

The trees were again prefect with many drops and hitting
the meadow line perfectly for maximum vertical. The run-out back to the car
was very slow but we didn't care. Three great lines, home-made pizza and
beer for dinner; it was the prefect day.
The next day we had no expectations. Dan, Will AKA
Altaboy, figured that rain had fallen up high but it had not. When we got to
Happo-One, we saw that there was powder everywhere. We lapped up as
much of the soft stuff inbounds as we could, a great unexpected day with the
dam airs being about as good as they can be. We then decided to head up and
check out how well some of the bigger lines were holding up. If the snow was
crap we would come back, if it was stable we would run a long northeast
facing line. The snow was stable but a bit crusty. I was on crazy fat skis
that had no problem with the snow. I broke through and rode the snow like it
was soft powder. High-speed nice turns; I had a lot of fun.

All that came crashing to a halt when Willhurt himself
badly on the easiest part of the run. The last little section where the snow
was sticky grabbed Will’s leg and decided to try to destroy his hips and
knees. Our goal was to ski the line and catch the bus back after a beer. We
would instead be forced to walk our friend out for 2 or 3 kms and hope that
he could make it at least to a safe-ish zone. This was the one day we had
packed light and had only our simple resort packs on; we didn't have our
first aid gear or other gear to secure his leg with. I was really scared
that he wouldn't make it out but he did fine in the end. I know he was in
horrible pain but there just wasn't much that we could do. Another lesson
re-learned: whatever can happen in the back country, will happen and you’d
better be prepared for it.
After having such stable snow the day before and the rain
still holding off for a few more hours, Dan and I decide to try and ski
The Mix.
We raced out and got up onto our line. Unfortunately the
weather started to warm up fast and by the time I started digging a pit to
check for snow things were not looking good for east facing slopes. My pit
failed on a medium 1 shovel shear test. That failure was enough for me to
get off the slope and look for a mellower northwest facing slope to ski.

As we already had a slope in mind for plan B; off we
went. We got prefect shin-deep snow. It wasn’t heavy; it wasn’t light, but
just good enough to still be called powder. Skiing this 35 to 38 degree
slope for over a km was pretty nice. After getting to bottom I said goodbye
to The Mix for the season. The 10 runs she gave me during the season
were sick but the coming rain was going to hurt her. I can't take a bad run
in The Mix it would just taint my feelings toward her. Seven months
of waiting will bring her back to life and the way she should be, ready to
be ridden again, so I’ll wait.
After waiting for a week for the rain to stop Dan and I
decided to get off of our butts. We would go up Happo Ridge even if
we had to ski back down the way that we climbed up. We had a bit of a late
start, but we managed to get to the bottom of the top chair lift by 10:30.
We got there just in time to watch them close the chair for the day.
We debated and in the end just started hiking from there.
We didn't set a crazy pace but we did well. Within 45 minutes we had passed
a group of snowboarders hiking up who had caught the last chair. I was
stoked to pass them and, in all, our one-hour time to the third pile of
rocks on Happo Ridge was good enough for me.
After checking the snow we saw that the snow was actually
saturated but still stable. It was a very funny snow pack, really. The snow
pack was saturated but you would only penetrate 2 to 3 cms into it. After
ripping down the upper south face we committed to skiing the bigger
north-facing line. We had a bit of lunch and watched a guided group ski
down, and then down we went. The snow was like spring butter.
We both had a blast. We sat at the restaurants and small
deck at the base of Hakuba 47, which had a great view of our line, we
drank 2 coronas while waiting for the bus. Nothing better than having a
drink and looking up at your line.
May 2007 Nick Kowal
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