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The
Hidden Door
By Gardner Robinson |
If you’re tired of the crowds of Hakuba and don’t feel like driving all the
way to Shiga, Togakushi might be exactly what you’re looking for.
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Togakushi means "hidden door" or "hidden gate," and luckily it
is still a secret to many people. Most people visit Togakushi in the spring
and summer due to the plethora of outdoor activities, however in the cold
months it transforms itself into a winter playland for skiers and
snowboarders. It doesn’t have the long runs of Happoone or Suginohara, and
it doesn’t get as much snow as Niigata, but what it lacks in girth it more
than makes up for in charm and accessibility.
The Togakushi ski resort is nestled between Mt. Togakushi and
Mt. Iizuna. As you ride up the chairlift the Togakushi range provides a
stunning backdrop. Although Togakushi is more renown for it’s soba and as an
ancient ninja training ground, every year more and more people seem to
discover it for its beauty and good snow. I have met several people that
come all the way from Tokyo several times a year because they prefer the
peace and quiet to the crowds of Hakuba and Naeba. Other than the long
weekend in the middle of February, (I vow to stay home every year…but never
do) I’ve never seen long lift lines at all.
Regardless, there is no shortage of area to explore. Togakushi
boasts 21 courses and a newly opened snowboard park. There are two high
speed quads and seven other lifts to choose from. They range roughly from
30% beginner to 40% intermediate and 30% advanced. So, there is a good
variety for everyone…whether you ride one board or two. There are moguls,
steeps, nice groomed runs and powder and trees if you know where to look.
The top quad and the adjacent top lift are the best for more advanced skiers
with relatively long cruising runs and steep moguls. For boarders, the
snowboard park is just off the lower quad, and the bottom lifts are great
for beginners and usually never crowded.
Togakushi has 3000 meters of vertical runs and an average of
200 centimeters a year. It is open from December to April and daily from
8:30am to 5:00pm. Because it is hidden between two larger mountains,
Togakushi often has snow even when Iizuna has none. Therefore it opens
almost a month earlier than it’s close neighbor. I have visited many resorts
all over Honshu and whenever I return to Togakushi, it always feels like
coming home. Everyone from the "Oji-san" parking attendants to the lift
operators create a family atmosphere, and I have rarely, if ever, had a bad
day.
If you get hungry there are plenty of restaurants in and around
the ski area that offer similar set menus. However, I recommend stopping by
the restaurant next to the main parking area. Their ramen, soba and other
sets are enormous. The down side, is that you may feel more like taking a
nap then getting back on your skis. Note that during peak lunch hours it
gets very busy, so you may want to sneak in there early or late.
For a nicer and more expensive choice, you can head down to the
village and try some of Togakushi’s renown soba at one of the restaurants
near the shrine. Another fun option on nice days, is to pack a lunch (and
refreshments) and head for the top quad. After you get off, hike for 2
minutes to the lookout where you can enjoy incredible 360 degree views of
the Togakushi range, Miyoko-kogen and Hakuba.
If you need rental equipment there are many shops to choose
from at the resort as well.. However, if you require large sizes (over 28
cm) you may want to bring your own or try to rent somewhere that has a
larger selection. Contact the Togakushi Ski School if you are interested in
skiing or snowboarding lessons.
After a long day on the hill, there is no better way to end the
day than soaking in the rejuvenating waters of an onsen (hot spring). A new
onsen opened this season just a few minutes from the resort. If you drive
back down into town and take a left at Togakushi Chusha (inner shrine) you
will run right into it. It’s small and doesn’t have a rotemburo (outdoor hot
spring), but it is close, clean and has a pleasant view.
Nonetheless, if you don’t mind driving a little farther, Tengu
onsen is my place of choice to relax after boarding or skiing. On your way
down to Nagano city, follow the signs to Iizuna kogen. Pass Iizuna kogen and
keep going until you see the lights of the night skiing area at Iizuna
Resort on your left. You should see a green sign on your right to Tengu.
Take a right and follow the road for a few kilometers until you pass the
golf club and lake on your left. You should see the onsen on your right.
Tengu has a large indoor bathing area, a small outdoor rotemburo with a
magnificent view of Myoko kogen, a lounge with TV, a game area for kids, and
a Japanese restaurant with frosty mugs of beer. It can get a little crowded
just after the mountain closes, but it is worth the wait.
So if you’re looking for an alternative to the big ski areas
and you don’t want to deal with traffic or long lift lines, give Togakushi a
try. You may be pleasantly surprised at what awaits beyond the hidden door.
One of the best things about Togakushi is how easy it is to get
in and out of…and the parking is free! There are a couple of different ways
to get there from Nagano city, but if you follow the signs you won’t have
any problem. It’s a beautiful drive and the bonus is you can ski up until
closing without worrying about the traffic going home.
If you are coming from Tokyo, take either the Chuo or the
Joshin-etsu expressways to the Nagano exit. Follow the signs to central
Nagano, then to Zenkoji temple and finally to Togakushi. It should take
between 30 and 45 minutes by car from central Nagano depending on traffic
and weather conditions. From Nagoya or Osaka, take the Chuo expressway to
the Nagano exit and follow the same directions.
The easiest way to Nagano from Tokyo is the 79 minute
shinkansen (bullet train). There are several other routes from Tokyo, one of
which is to take the Azusa Express (or Super Express, same price but faster)
from Shinjuku to Matsumoto and then change trains to Nagano. From Nagoya
there is no shinkansen but the Shinano Express takes you to Nagano in 2
hours and 43 minutes, and it’s a beautiful trip up the Kiso valley. From
Osaka is a bit longer, 3 hours and 7 minutes, but there is also a special
winter train that runs at night. Check at the station for details. In each
case you will have to take a bus (60 minutes) or taxi (30-45 minutes) from
Nagano station to Togakushi. If you are coming from Kanazawa or Niigata you
can take the train to Kurohime station. From Kurohime station there is a
free shuttle bus (40 minutes) to Togakushi, but you must make a reservation
at the resort. You can also go by taxi.
A cheaper way to get to Nagano might be by bus. Check with your
local bus service and find out if they provide storage space for ski or
snowboarding equipment. It shouldn’t be a problem.
