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Feature Articles: Chairman of the 'Board
 
 
 
 
Snow Japan - Getting in Touch with Vishnu

Atman and the Art of Snowboard Maintenance, Part 2

Part 1 can be found here.

After cleaning the board, repairing the scars, and sharpening the edge, a quick wax job is all you need to get you up and running – it’s just like bringing up kids! Hot-wax is kind of like clothing, you put it on and then the next thing you have to do is take it all off again - except wax is not quite as pointless as clothing and I know I am not the only member of the ‘board who feels this way! So what is the point of waxing your board if you are just going to scrape it all off right away? The same thing that makes clothing so annoying in the first place, static electricity! If you don’t believe it, try rubbing your bare board repeatedly with felt or toilet paper and you’ll soon have a 158-centimeter Van de Graff generator pumping enough static through your house to run the toaster. Waxing your board neutralizes it against the adverse effects of static electricity creating about as frictionless a surface which will, in turn, have you flat on your back an average of three times faster than ever before!

Any trip to your local shop will show you that there is a huge variety of waxes available, so what do you need? The most appealing and hottest selling items is spray or aerosol wax because you just rub it on and hit the slopes. This is about the fastest and most useless 2000 – 4000 yen you can spend on wax because, if it doesn’t rub off entirely on your first morning, it will certainly be gone at the end of the day leaving you exactly where you began. Iwata-san couldn’t exactly come out and say that it was worthless because he was selling it out the front door by the truck-load but, he was certainly having a hard time finding the words to describe any benefit aerosol wax really provided.

Base wax, running wax, racing wax, candle wax, what is a board owner to do? You don’t need to know how the stuff is made, where the electrons go, or which color wax is sexiest to get your board lightning quick but, what you do need to know is:

Applying base wax to your board before applying the running wax is like putting primer on your garage before you paint it – it doesn’t have the desired effect of paint, but if you neglect the primer than the paint simply isn’t going to work. Fortunately, you only need to apply base wax two to three times during the season. Base wax will have your running wax, the stuff that really makes your board slick, suppressing any excess electrons with the greatest of ease. Many pro-shops also use a combination all-in-one wax that takes care of everything in one shot but I don’t think this is available on the retail market.

Many brands of running wax try to sell themselves as racing or starting wax but, you’ll know if have the real thing by the price tag because this stuff goes for about 10,000 yen for a 10 gram bar – more expensive than crack! Unlike running and base wax, which is scraped off after application, racing wax is applied just before a race and requires extreme expertise. Racing wax wears down after the first few moments in the snow and is meant to provide that extra burst of speed at the start to lead to a decisive victory. If you’re not dedicating your weekends to racking up decisive victories then don’t even give racing or starting wax a second thought.

Stax o' wax

Which are we doing, a color-sensitive load of laundry or an extreme sport? You may have read that you must choose your wax by it’s color-coding in order to reach the desired effect. In the west, where waxes are colored according to their temperature thresholds, color may be important but, the wax makers who produce Japanese wax provide a variety of colors that have nothing to do with their designed temperatures. So, when shopping for wax, look for a wax that targets the temperature of the snow at the resort you are going to visit. How are you going to estimate the snow temperature if you have not buried your nose into it a few times in the first place? Simple, Iwata-san suggests -10 for Hokkaido and 0 for the rest of Honshu.

I’m not a big one for brands, especially when it comes to wax but, if you really are concerned, ask your acquaintances and find out if there are any sensible suggestions. Iwata-san recommends Gallium but, for those of you who are interested in saving up their money for lift tickets, you could happily settle for Conquest. There are also some brands that offer graphite wax, which is meant to be good, but it is also fairly expensive and leaves an unattractive black residue if you use it on your legs…I heard.

OK, enough details, let’s get this stuff on (and off) the board. First of all, before you use your mother’s iron for this wax job, realize that the steam holes will clog up – oh well, at least she won’t have to settle for that embarrassing static electricity, right? Special wax irons are available for about 5,000 yen but any iron set to low heat will do – you just won’t be able to use it on your clothes again. Press the wax bar against the iron and melt drops of it in a thin layer across the base of your board. After you have wax spread along the board, beginning at the nose, press the iron flat to the base and slowly and evenly slide the iron towards the tail. Keep the iron moving because you may burn your board if you stop it on the P-Tex base. Once at the tail, return to the nose and smooth out another path of wax toward the back. Do this until a thin layer of wax has been smoothly spread upon the board. Feel free to put on as much wax as you like but, after about 30 minutes, when it is all dry, you are just going to have to scrape it all off again so, just try to cover the base evenly as best you can. Let it cool for at least 30 minutes, bust out your trusty scraper, which is plastic ruler-looking thing – and get scraping. There are wide snowboard scrapers available but Iwata-san prefers the smaller ski scrapers because they are easier to maneuver over the surface of the board. Hold the scraper angled forward and bowing out slightly in the center. Run the scraper along the board from nose to tail until no more wax comes off the surface. You don’t want a trace of wax left on the board – ZERO.

Don't let mom catch you
The question you want to ask yourself is, 'Do you feel lucky, Punk?'
Off like a hot-wax Prom dress

Thus Norika was completely remade and just as beautiful as ever. I could not resist the urge any longer so I packed her up in my bag and whisked her off to Furano for the weekend! Though Iwata-San had only spent about 90 minutes touching up my board, it has never felt better! Angling the edges, even by a nanometer, trimmed down any violent falls caused by catching an unwanted edge to almost zero. The wax job increased my speed to the point where I was able to keep up with my Swiss skier friend for one vision-blurring high-speed chase down the mountain! I have never really bothered tuning up my board before but, since my shop-job at Powers, I have completely changed my religion. From now on I’m going to stay in touch with Vishnu, and I strongly urge you to do the same. The God of Maintenance opened up the doors of snowboarding creativity to me in Furano and also helped Shiva to destroy my previous speed record. Norika, Vishnu, and I can ’t wrong this season - it is going to be a BIG winter!

Have a great first run and I will catch up with you in a couple of weeks!


Saviour of a multitude, Iwata-San



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