Exploring Tohoku... …on your skis (snowboards, tele-skis, fun-skis etc.) DISCUSS THIS FEATURE HERE

Pity poor Tohoku, it is all but ignored by the rest of the world, and even the rest of Japan. Tokyo is the worlds arguably most developed city. It is also the economic and pop cultural hub of Asia, with the city coffers larger than that of 75% of the countries in the world. Osaka, or the "anti-Tokyo", plays a wonderful second city, was recently in the running for its own Olympics, and much like the second city of the United States, a legendary "yakuza" or gangster haven. Kyoto, despite the fact that most of its ancient grandeur is now a concrete jungle, is still a place where you can view the Japan of "geisha, temples, and shrines", that generally speaking, is a textbook relic. Hiroshima, is a must stop for nearly every North American who wants to "really" experience Japan. Few leave the war memorial with dry eyes. This author, though having never been there, will admit to having shed tears over August 1945 in Japan, a country that has been a major part of his life since 1998.

Even other rural and outdoor recreational areas grab the spotlight over Tohoku. Hokkaido got the 1972 Winter Olympics in Sapporo. Chubu was the host of the recent 1998 Winter Games in Nagano Prefecture. Tohoku was given the 1993 World Alpine Ski Championships at Shizukuishi, and even then that was because it was rumored that Prince Hotel Chain owner Yoshiaki Tsustumi, did not want to give the championships to his more well known resort Shiga Koogen, as it would drive the crowds of skiers away from that resort, to his local competitors. The 1993 World Championships will be famous for the uncountable complaints by competitors, ski federations, and fans, absolutely terrible weather (even measured by Shizukuishi's notorious track record in that department), and general lack of preparation, before they will be remembered for the championships themselves. Fittingly, the sign on the road leading to ”Shizu” welcoming the world to the Championships a decade ago, has noticeably faded in its coloring. Even Kyushu a more remote and desolate part of Japan than Tohoku, managed to garner a National Geographic magazine feature article. The articles lauded its abundant forests, volcanoes, hot springs, and made it out to be a “not-to-miss” paradise of natural beauty. Tohoku? Well, my cousin from Minnesota remembers watching the 1993 World Championships on cable TV, really. He thought the view of Mt. Iwate, the famous Iwate active volcano, was quite scenic.

Iwate Prefecture fares little better in the scheme of things. It is well known as one of the "big three" of Japanese rural prefectures. It, along with Tottori- Ken, the pachinko parlor and used car lot capital of the world, and Kumamoto-Ken, "Kumamoto", literally translated as "bear-base", but could mean "there is nothing but bears in this f#$%&ing place!", bring shivers to the spine of the erudite, urbane, high school-educated Japanese.

The reaction to these names is similar to what "West Virginia", "Kentucky", and "Vermont" may bring to a citizen of the United States. Perhaps it will elicit the response that "Manitoba", "The Yukon Territories", or "The Maritimes " will in a Canadian denizen. To an Austrian, the words "Bludenz", "Graz", and "Dornbirn", will produce that reaction. For a Finn, "Pohjanmaa", "Savo", and "Oulainen", will certainly produce that all-too-familiar feeling. Our plentiful Chinese friends will say the same about "Uighur", "Inner Mongolia", and "Tibet". Aussies, will react to the utterances of "The Ouback", "Tasmaina", and "The Gold Coast", in similar fashion. Kiwis will react similarly if they hear "Wellington", "Christ Church", and "Auckland". Actually, they are New Zealand's three biggest cities, but.., well..., can YOU name more than those three places? Anyways, I think you get the idea.

All this lack of attention to Tohoku and Iwate is a loss.... Especially to those people who like to indulge in winter sports. For those who are interested in lighter, fluffier snow than that which falls in the ski area dotted area just north of Tokyo, this may be your place. Do you want to avoid the long lines of the Chubu region, and Hokkaidos famous resorts? Is the "Shinjuku on Snow" experience a little too much to waste your time and money on? Then here in Tohoku we may have your "Manna from Heaven".

For those who have moved to, or live in Iwate many first class resorts are yours to enjoy. Appi, usually is considered the second or third best resort in the country. Shizukuishi may coast on the reputation it gained in 1993 for being the host resort of a World Championship, but it still attracts some of the best racers in Japan, also many other skiers. Finding out why that is, is fun. Hachimantai is a famous "boarders, adventurers, and back country skiers" off-piste paradise. Hachimantai Resort, attracts large groups from all over the country, eager to learn how to ski. Geto (pia), may be one of the best ski bargains in the country.

Some skiers (boarders, etc), may not find that enough for their tastes. Iwate may be a little bit too confining. So, in the tradition of what is probably the one notable Tohoku-centered book among the thousands of titles you can find about Japan at most local or chain bookstores in the West, "Exploring Tohoku: A Guide to Japans Backcountry"  by Jan Brown and Yoko Kmetz, lets "Explore Tohoku" - at least, some of its more unique winter adventures. The book is, perhaps due to lack of any notable competition, the definitive guide to Tohoku, its hiking trails, onsens, temples, and other bucolic treasures. I strongly suggest you do not take THIS article at THAT level of authority. In fact using the terms "Dean H. Ruetzler" and "authority" in the same sentence, are quite dangerous. Please do so at your own risk.

Speaking of risk, one must realize there is at least some risk at one of the best places for the adventurer. With risk comes reward, and in the case of Aomori Prefecture's Hakkoda, the reward is powder, or "pow". The "pow" at Hakkoda is of a legendary reputation. It is said that Aomori and Akita Prefectures, thanks to the unimpeded weather fronts coming from Siberia, get more snow than any other place in the world at the same latitude. Though all of it does not fall at Hakkoda, those who ski Hakkoda, especially in February, may believe that to be true.

Hakkoda is not your typical ski area. It is a tramway heading to the top of a mountain peak, off of which, two de facto trails, and countless opportunities to "play in the woods" arise. The bottom of the area, near the base lodge, will supply two more lifts, and a few other trails, but using them is like going into a Ben and Jerry's Ice Cream Shop, skipping the exotic flavors like Chunky Monkey, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough, and Toffee Heath Bar Crunch, and ordering Vanilla.

Skiing the summit of Hakkoda is an unforgettable ski experience. I literally have never seen more powder in my life, and that includes skiing Colorado's famous back bowls. I had never experienced waist-deep powder before skiing there, and memories of skiing there have always been among the best of the season. Going and "eating pow" at Hakkoda, is a truly unique experience. Any ski ground that can offer knee-deep powder on the small "bunny slope" trails near the base lodge is worth the time, effort, and money spent.

However, it has also been a "legend" of another kind too. Since hundreds of Japanese Imperial Soldiers perished in the fierce blizzards of an early twentieth century training exercise held there, Hakkoda has been famously dangerous too. A piece of advice; DO NOT tell your Japanese employers that you are going to Hakkoda, unless you want to hear the above story perhaps one hundred times in one day. My Japanese employers are astounded that I can put together Intermediate Level sentences in their language, use chopsticks with rudimentary skill, and manage the left side of the road correctly, let alone survive a weekend at Hakkoda.

In this case, their paternal, over-protective admonitions are warranted. Fierce blizzards can come out of nowhere. I have found myself separated from the group I was with, alone in the woods on more than one occasion while skiing there. A friend of mine who spent most of the winter skiing at Hakkoda for three years, has a horror story about getting REALLY lost or two. My second visit to Hakkoda had literally hundreds of Japanese soldiers searching for two lost skiers who had been missing for days (they were found, albeit quite frostbitten). Hakkoda is a great adventure, but please be careful. If you are really going to go all out, proper precautions like walkie-talkies, signal flares, etc. are a must. You better bring a bag lunch too, as the line for the tramway fills up quickly, and the twenty minute wait before the next one comes will seem like twice that much time. Spending as much time as possible on the mountain, despite its dangers, is recommended.

A similar experience lies in waiting for the adventurer at Aomori's Iwakiyama. Iwakiyama is not even a "real" ski area. It is the result of someone enterprising who sees to it that skiers and the like are taken up to the top of Mt. Iwakiyama by Sno-Cat. Now, the one time I went, the Sno-Cat only went three-quarters of the way up to the summit. From there, I got lost from my ski comrades, and ended up missing the cut off to go back to the main trail from the woods. (May I add, it was challenging, but very nice skiing in the woods). An hour later, sweat-soaked, I emerged from the woods at a main road, and hiked a half kilometer in ski boots to the base lodge. This was after a half hour of trying to use my downhill skis Cross-Country fashion to negotiate the run-out to the road. Sounds great to the reader at this point, doesn't it?

Well, my penchant for getting lost, and only experience not being that great non-withstanding, Iwakiyama does have a good reputation. Especially with the adventurous types, and the "Powderhounds" looking for their fix of the white stuff. I have heard from people who have gone on a day where the summit was accessible, and their critique of the experience was nothing short of ecstatic. It is from trusted sources of ski info, so I will pass it along. It looks like Iwakiyama is worth a visit, or two, or...

Another "can't miss" spot on this list is Akita-ken's Tazawako Ski Area. Little more than an hours drive from Morioka, Iwate prefectures capital. It combines a pretty decent resort with one of the most spectacular views you will ever get from a ski area, that of neighboring Lake Tazawako. With that view, which is nothing short of spectacular (weather permitting), the amount, quality, and reputation of the "onsens" (hot springs) in the general vicinity should be enough. The traditional "apres-ski onsen soak" is probably at its best at Tazawako. Of course two volcanic eruptions in the past sixty years, in the area, may contribute to that enjoyable soak too.

The next stop on our exploration of Tohoku is Yamagata Prefecture's Zao Ski Area. Upon first glance, it appears to be just another ski area, not a unique adventure. Look again, it IS just another resort, just another European resort, that is, not exactly what you expect in the land of economic doldrums... I mean, “rising sun”. Zao was actually patterned after a Swiss Ski resort, right down to the design of the resort being built around a village, instead of being above, or removed from it. As far as ambience and tradition go, it is first rate. If it were not for the ever present kanji on the signs, a few onsens in the town, and one in the ski area, you may not know you are in Japan.

Aside from being "St. Anton-in-Tohoku" Zao is also famous for its "juuhyou", or "frost-covered trees" on its summit. A tramway ride is a must for the visitor to Zao, as the view of the "juuhyou" is spectacular. You need to get your tramway tickets beforehand, as it is a very popular experience. Zao has loads of trails and lifts, and it would probably take an advanced skier a few days to ski the entire resort (for contrast, Iwate's medium sized Geto takes about three or four hours). The amenities are quite good, and the "onsen" are abundant. There is plenty for Zao to offer the skier. The ticket prices reflect that as Zao is probably Tohoku's most expensive resort. It certainly is a unique experience, right down to the lift that goes over a service road. This can totally freak out car passengers seeing it for the first time. Just maybe, I know this fact from experience. It was almost as scary as seeing a Boeing 747 land on the runway that goes over Interstate 80 in Denver, Colorado. Anyways, put Zao on your "must do" list for Tohoku ski experiences. One way or another, it will prove worth your while.

Yamagata is also the home of Gassan, which is a unique resort right from the outset. It is set on a high mountain pass that gets so much snow that the access road is closed in the winter. As soon as the road is passable to through traffic, Gassan opens. Most years this is in April. As soon as there is insufficient snow to ski on, Gassan closes. This is usually late July. They hold a ski race on the 20^th (or is it the 23rd?) of each June. It has been held every year for many years. It may have originated in Edo (Feudal)-Era Japan. It is not uncommon to see skiing at Gassan into July.

For those who are still skiing at that time of the year, Gassan is more than a "day at the slopes", it takes on a pseudo-religious aspect. A trip to Gassan to ski, becomes more than travel, it is a pilgrimage to the "Mecca" of late spring and summer skiing. Even if you cannot convince yourself of that stratified experience, the scenery, the chance to ski that late in the year, and the "off-the-beaten-path" aura to Gassan, all are reasons to go.

Tohoku is not limited to these five resorts as far as unique adventures go. It is full of ski areas, from the mega-resorts, to the small one or two lift ski areas. In fact Tohoku's only large city of note, Sendai, contains a small ski area completely within one of its suburbs, lying on a hill. Each and every ski area I have been to in Tohoku seems to have some sort of a unique character to it, a "je ne sai quois"  that give it some sort of intangible but remarkable feature. Aside from that, Tohoku's winter resorts can offer you an abundance of snow, that is of a quality that is clearly surpassed on this globe only by the North American Rocky Mountains. Despite living in Vermont, Colorado, and Finland (as in "very freakin' cold Finland"!) for most of my life, I never had skied in the months of May, June, or July before setting foot in Tohoku. The next winter (or spring, maybe even summer) snow adventure is waiting for you, and you do not even have to leave Tohoku to find it. Enjoy Exploring!