Skiing in Iwate...for Dummies! DISCUSS THIS FEATURE HERE

Unless one is from North America, they may think this article is a pejorative attempt by the author and editorial staff to belittle the reader. Of course, that is why the editorial staff always adds "such opinions do not always represent the opinions of..." or something like that so I take all the blame anyways. My fellow North Americans will recognize that it is merely copying the famous "...for Dummies" how-to series that is so popular in that corner of the world. With titles like "Algebra for Dummies", "Windows for Dummies", "Accounting for Dummies" (well, in that case they really were not kidding!), etc. they have sold millions of their "how to" books. Of course, now that I have aped them on this article I should watch out for the copyright nazis. If I suddenly disappear, you know why.

No, this article was originally written as part of my duties for the "Hakuchoo", the English language newsletter of the Iwate (Japan) Prefectural International Association.  An introduction to skiing in Iwate means conveying to the skier that this Prefecture and the surrounding ones get a ton of snow, and I do emphasize quite a lot. Only those foreigners coming to Iwate from the Rocky Mountains have probably seen decent quality ski areas blessed with more snow. To those, like myself, who come from Eastern North America, have fun, this is not the blue ice, grass, and exposed rocks we like to pretend is snow. To those coming from Europe used to the Alps and the like, you may be in for a surprise. To those coming from Chile, even you may be surprised. Finally, for the New Zealanders, I have heard quite a few Kiwi skiers comment that the snow in Japan may be a little less in amount, but the home grown snow is of a heavier and stickier quality than the lighter, fluffier Japanese "kona-yuki" (powder snow).

Perhaps that Japanese trade representative, who has given the outside world, from academia and journalism, to the ski industry years of laughs for claiming that Japan "has a special snow of unique quality unlike any other in the world" is right? He said that in defense of keeping the Japanese ski market closed to foreign companies. Well, he was not correct, as my Austrian and French skis handle Japanese snow just fine, but the snow here is pretty darn good, and to a certain extent, unique.

So for those coming to Iwate, as experienced skiers or boarders, or for those who choose to learn in lieu of other common Northern Japanese winter pastimes (staying home, watching TV, and drinking a lot of sake), you are in for a treat.

Mt. Iwate, the active volcano that is the centerpiece of the prefecture, is also the fulcrum of Iwate skiing, with most of the major resorts within an hour to ninety minutes drive from the capital city, Morioka. The major ski areas of the Mt. Iwate vicinity offers something to satisfy any kind of skier from rank beginner to seasoned veteran.

First of all, there is Appi, a ski area considered to be one of the best in Japan. It is a little pricey, but the facilities are first rate, and the mountain offers something for just about every type of boarder or skier. Only the die-hard “thrill-seeker”, “extreme” skier, or skilled "speed demon" will be disappointed by the trail selection. It has a huge half-pipe, very good night skiing, and even pneumatic air hoses to clear the snow off your skis, boots, and bindings. You can also "goose" your friends with them for fun. Though thanks to its national reputation, the tourists flock in droves, especially during vacations and weekends, and the locals often seek refuge elsewhere at those times.

Next in line in the "reputation" order is Shizukushi, the host of the 1993 World Alpine Ski Championships. They did not really do a bang up job of hosting that event, and the world-class racers found it a tad flat and slow. However just because the mountain was not good enough for Alberto Tomba, Hermann Maier, Picabo Street, Lasse Kjus, and their entourages, fans, and ski federations, does not mean it is not a good ski area. In a land bereft of a lot of steep trails, it does offer you some challenging territory, and is considered the best place for racing in Japan, annually holding national caliber championships. It also has what appears to be the best, and most comprehensive, instruction and racing programs in Iwate.

The ski area could be developed better, and that fact leaves it a little short of a first class resort. The resorts amenities, while not shoddy, are also not exemplary in comparison to many other Iwate ski resorts. When you consider that the owner of the ski area (and many others), is Yoshiaki Tsutsumi, who was once the richest man in the world (circa 1988, worth about 21 billion dollars at the time), it may be disappointing in perspective. A chairlift or two on the west side of the mountain are all but unused, having never been used in the four years I have been going to Shizukuishi. They produce an eyesore that should be razed, renovated, or replaced. In view of Tsutsumi's billions, to just leave them sitting is nearly absurd. The Ladies Downhill gondola, a state of the art gondola installed especially for the 1993 World Championships essentially serves only one trail. In thirty-two years of skiing, I have never seen a major lift, tramway, cable car or gondola serve only one trail (one “de facto” trail, as a short fork in the trail is mapped as a separate trail). What makes this even more disappointing is that off to the east side of the gondola terminus is a broad relatively steep sloping area that leads to a valley that runs to the bottom of the gondola area. This area is almost ideal for trail development. It could produce three or four trails, and a run out that would greatly enhance the ski area. Tsutumi's ski areas are often infamous for their bottom line management, and in the case of Shizukuishi, it is clearly keeping a good - in ways very good - resort from becoming first class. 

Shizukuishi is one of Tohoku's best resorts, and does carry a national reputation. I have met many Japanese skiers who have come from as far as Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto to ski there (some have even held season tickets) to avoid the crowds of Chuubu. The lack of further development of this ski area is a shame, as it truly has the potential to be one of the best resorts in the country. To give it a sports metaphor it is like watching Randy Johnson throw knuckleballs, or perhaps watching Ronaldo take a turn as goalkeeper. The waste of potential is surely evident in those cases. Why it is just like watching Randy Moss “go all out” only occasionally….

I had a season pass “Squishy” (Shizukuishis nickname in the Iwate prefecture ex pat ski community) two years ago and was not disappointed with that experience. I was just tinged with regret, insomuch that the ski area could be even better. Just for fun, you can zip down the same trails the worlds best did nine years ago. I sped down the Ladies Downhill trail from top to bottom in 3 minutes 25 seconds. It may not get me on the World Cup circuit, but it is fairly commendable for a recreational skier. Most importantly it was quite enjoyable.

After that, there is Hachimantai, the thrill-seekers “off-piste" paradise. It is basically three linked lifts and a few co-joining trails with some comfortable, but "no-frills" facilities. What exists beyond that is the true adventure. Unlike most Japanese ski areas, off-piste skiing is permitted. This means acres upon acres of woods, powder chutes, ridges, and valleys are yours to play in. It is also legend with snowboarders, and backcountry skiers, who use the lifts to access some of the best backcountry skiing in the country. While at Hachimantai, I can show you a great hike that leads to about 20 minutes worth of unfettered peaks, ridges, trees, valleys and powder. The caffeine supply for the day, and the post-adventure kaiten sushi are on you.

Tucked in at the base of Mount Iwate, is Hachimantai Resort, which with its fast lifts, gently sloping trails, and cheap but energy packed food, is the ideal place to learn your winter craft of choice. It has a national reputation as a paradise for beginners, and will host large groups of ski classes from all over Japan. The local "onsen" (hot springs) are great for soaking away a days worth of bumps and bruises, collected while “learning the ropes”. It also supplies spectacular views of Mt. Iwate, including the often- steaming secondary crater. Which brings back fond memories of a fellow JET program member spending a whole day mortified, terrified, and refusing to look at the steaming crater.

There are also two other ski areas of note near good ol' Iwate-San. They are most notable because lacking any type of notable national or regional reputation they tend to be the favorites among Iwate denizens. Amihari, a nice medium sized ski area near Shizukuishi has some decent trails, including a good patch of racing territory and steep pitches to keep the advanced skier busy for a day. The resorts "onsen", are of regional and national repute, and add the perfect denoument to a great day of skiing. In addition, there is Shimokura, between Appi and Hachimantai Resort, which seems to be a slightly smaller version of Amihari, minus the highly reputed onsen. Perhaps of great importance to about half of the "new to Iwate" crowd these two ski areas seem to the be the area of choice of local attractive single women.

For the newcomer who has already decided to partake in "couch potato" sports this winter, there is even a ski area for you next to Amihari. Iwate Koogen, has been out of business for four winters, going on five, and the unused lifts are collecting rust at a considerable clip. It is your built-in excuse not to ski. Some people will tell you that it closed because of Iwate Sans "recent volcanic activity". Yeah right, other ski areas are even closer and in more precarious spots, but they are still open. Four years of the Iwate ski grapevine says it was incompetent management.

Beyond the Mount Iwate area there are two other relatively major ski areas. One Ski area lies in the Southern part of the prefecture, and the other lies in the northern part of Iwate. Both are about two hours drive from the capital city.

Lying to the south of Morioka, technically within the city limits of Kitakami, Iwate's second largest city, is Geto, a ski area little more than a decade old. If Appi is considered the consummate 1980's Japanese "bubble economy" ski area, then Geto must be the penultimate "bubble-burst recession economy" ski resort. It is similar to Appi in the respect that that it is very skier friendly, and designed with the consumer in mind. From there they diverge markedly. Appi's target consumer is a relatively well-off professional from the Tokyo/Osaka area who thinks nothing of spending a huge chunk of money ("satsutaba" in Japanese) to take the bullet train, and it's expensive fare to ski for the weekend. Geto's typical consumer is much younger, a local, and probably not working more than a part time, or floating between jobs. They are usually grateful that the bus from Kitakami station to Geto is a subsidized, 200 yen when most similar bus rides in Iwate will cost in excess of 1000 Yen. Or perhaps they will try to jam four people plus equipment in a beat-up, old, ultra-lite "keesha" car for the journey to Geto. A stay at Appi is usually a first class resort hotel. The typical stay at Geto is in the dorm style arrangement in the main building for about one fifth the price of your Appi hotel. Geto has good skiing on well designed trails, great night skiing, and even some good places to.....shhhhh...go off-piste, and play "dodge the trees in the powder". Just do not implicate me if you get caught, I will deny everything! Geto also benefits from being the only real ski resort of consequence between Morioka and Sendai, the largest city in the region. Geto will never be a world-class resort, but in the south of Iwate its beats everything by a wide margin, and should be considered one of the better resorts in Tohoku. Geto is very good for the skier who may not exactly want to take out a second mortgage to finance a ski week.

To the north of Morioka, is Okunakayama ski area. Aside from having a name that sounds like "okonomiyakki", a sort of spicy squid pancake that is quite delicious, I have little knowledge of this ski area. I have never skied it, but from the descriptions I have read of it, and from information related to me by those who have skied there, it seems like a pretty decent ski area. It appears to be decent sized, and like Geto to those in the south, its location is two hours closer to the residences of many of those who may read this article, than any other ski area.

Aside from these ski areas, there are many more of a much smaller variety. Oide Ski Area, about fifteen minutes drive from my apartment, is notable, because it is apparently in an area that seems utterly devoid of any hills, let alone mountains. Iwayama Ski Area, in a suburb of Morioka, is utterly convenient to those who reside in the city, but its location is more notable as a "make-out" spot, with it glittering view of the lights of Morioka, and quiet, somewhat remote location.

There are quite a few of these smaller ski areas, which for reasons of practicality, frugality, laziness, or simply lack of skiing skill, may make them worthwhile to visit. Aside from that, they really do not stand out. Tom Holton (fellow graduate of Colorado University aka. "Ski U."), the foreigner probably most familiar with skiing in Iwate (having trained with a local ski school for a winter) said of one of the small ski areas, "I went there, for the hell of it, just to say I went there once. It was there, it did exist, and I will probably never go again." These small ski areas also can be a great way of inflating your "times skied in one winter totals", without expending a lot of money or effort.

For those who find themselves still in need of a fix for skiing or boarding in May, June, and even July, if you are lucky, the Hachimantai ridge, near the summit offers some snow well into summer. This is very useful when all the ski areas have closed after mid-May or so. The summit area is not a ski area per se, but will supply you with decent snow to ski on, as you see, mingle with, and dodge the hikers, nature photographers, and tourists at the summit. From the main lodge at the top, you can find a decent amount of good ski territory, sometimes as much as one or two kilometers worth. Due to the lack of lifts, it is advisable to bring a car to take you from the departure point from the access road to the summit. I know this from experience, the hike up the “de facto” ski trail is a bi...tough one. Towards that end, it is useful to go in groups of three or more, to share the driving responsibilities, one drives while the others ski. The abundance of snow at the top of the Hachimantai ridge will ensure you that there will be a six-month ski season, and maybe even more.

If you were to figure out what is the geographical center of the ski world in Japan, it is quite probable that Iwate would come out at the very center. With wonderful skiing in the prefecture, a central location to the best skiing in the Tohoku region, and also being between Hokkaido and Chuubu, the flagships of Japanese, and probably Asian skiing, you may not have a better central location to ski this side of Denver, Calgary, or the Tyrol. 

That could be a tad of an exaggeration, but maybe not by all that much. The Japanese Alps and Ou Mountains await your pleasure seeking and sense of adventure. Enjoy!